Vehicle Battery Question

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GregGleason

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My SUV ('05 Durango, 4.7L) has had to be jump started 3 or 4 times in the last two days. This evening it died while I was on the road. I jump started it with one of the portable charges and it went on my way.

Is this likely a battery problem or an alternator problem?

Greg
 
Drop by an auto parts store, and have them test the battery -- the ones around here will do it, free of charge.

-Kevin
 
If it died while driving, it's your alternator. Alternator keeps it all running after it's started, and keeps the battery charged. Worst part is, you'll probably have to replace the battery now to from the excessive strain. Merry Christmas, hey?!? Sorry to hear of your misfortune at the worst time of the year.
 
Thanks. That's what I was afraid of.

Hopefully I can get a good deal that won't take it out of service for a while.

Greg
 
East fix and diagnosis----Sounds like the prob is the alternator---get it running--pull the neg terminal off the battery-while running--if it dies--it's the alt---dieing while driving is normally the alt failing and you run the batt out of juice. The batt may still be good and recoverable !---It's a DIY project----For the novice--here's some hints----WON'T START---headlights dim when trying to start or no headlights[dead battery]--what caused this? --ALTERNATOR OR BAD BATTERY--jump the car--pull the neg battery terminal while running--if it dies it's most likely the Alt. --WON'T START--headlights are good and do not dim while trying to start--most likely a starter--except with GM -VATS--Try banging the starter with something-- might get you on the road--heat and moisture exacerbate this problem---DIES WHILE RUNNING--esp at a stop --and won't crank afterward---usually begins to skip or miss before the total failure--That's an ALT !--As the weather changes to it's extremes, batteries go TU--Way cold or way hot , puts a lot of stress on them and they tend to fail more often in these conditions. I think you'll find your Prob is an Alternator-- LET US KNOW !! My last problem was a bear---figured it out, but not without these folk!!!---1000 bucks-- at a dealer--cost me .79 cents and one day to noodle it out!!!
 
Is it the original battery? if so it is about 7 years old and could have gone.

May sound dumb but also check/clean your battery connection. On my car I had electrical issues with starting and dieing while driving. I coasted into a "national" shop and they told me it was my battery & alternator and would cost over $600. I said the car was still under warranty and called the dealership. They arranged to have it towed to their shop to check it out. Diagnosis was dirty battery terminals. They cleaned them and I never had another problem....
 
Is it the original battery? if so it is about 7 years old and could have gone.

May sound dumb but also check/clean your battery connection. On my car I had electrical issues with starting and dieing while driving. I coasted into a "national" shop and they told me it was my battery & alternator and would cost over $600. I said the car was still under warranty and called the dealership. They arranged to have it towed to their shop to check it out. Diagnosis was dirty battery terminals. They cleaned them and I never had another problem....

THAT is a very good point!
 
Take a look at any ground connections as well. I had one corrode away and the result looked like a bad alternator - but I fixed it in 10 minutes with a wrench and an bristle brush.
 
If the battery terminals are dirty and the contact surface area is hindered by corrosion, you can have a lot of different problems mimicked by this issue. You can do a quick clean by slowly pouring a Coke or some other carbonated drink, or an alka-seltzer or baking soda and water over your terminals and keep doing this until they quit foaming. When you get time, get a terminal wire brush that is really two wire brushes that will clean the battery terminals and clean the terminal clamps. After that you can get the little red and green felt pads that are saturated with an acid neutralizing chemical in them that go under the terminal clamps to reduce the future affects of this issue.

If the problem is the alternator, you can have your alternator checked at your mechanic, dealership, or at an auto parts store. Frequently the issue is the diode block on the back of the alternator and it can be an easy fix. If you have to replace the alternator, there used to be, thirty years ago, some shops in Spring Branch on Long Point Rd between Gessner and Wirt than rebuild or remanufacture alternators, generators, and starter motors, any where from 25% to 50% less than parts stores. So you might look for this if you need to. You might even find someone in Katy or Brookshire who does this. Even the 18 wheeler parts guys can tell you who can help you with this.

I hope this helps.
 
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East fix and diagnosis----Sounds like the prob is the alternator---get it running--pull the neg terminal off the battery-while running--if it dies--it's the alt---dieing while driving is normally the alt failing and you run the batt out of juice. The batt may still be good and recoverable !---It's a DIY project----For the novice--here's some hints----WON'T START---headlights dim when trying to start or no headlights[dead battery]--what caused this? --ALTERNATOR OR BAD BATTERY--jump the car--pull the neg battery terminal while running--if it dies it's most likely the Alt. --WON'T START--headlights are good and do not dim while trying to start--most likely a starter--except with GM -VATS--Try banging the starter with something-- might get you on the road--heat and moisture exacerbate this problem---DIES WHILE RUNNING--esp at a stop --and won't crank afterward---usually begins to skip or miss before the total failure--That's an ALT !--As the weather changes to it's extremes, batteries go TU--Way cold or way hot , puts a lot of stress on them and they tend to fail more often in these conditions. I think you'll find your Prob is an Alternator-- LET US KNOW !! My last problem was a bear---figured it out, but not without these folk!!!---1000 bucks-- at a dealer--cost me .79 cents and one day to noodle it out!!!

Warning-- this doesn't always work and it's not recommended for newer computer controlled vehicles. Disconnecting the battery with it running causes the computer to think that the battery is completely dead, and usually it compensates by cranking the alternator to full output. This isn't good because it can cause power spikes that can fry your computer. Same reason that jump starting new vehicles is recommended that the car providing the boost be turned off... power spikes from the other car's alternator kicking it at high power can fry the computer on one or both cars!

Take the vehicle to a local auto parts. Take the battery out and take it in for a load test. If the battery has a problem, it will show up on a load test. They CAN hook up a dinky sorta tester to the battery with it in the car, but it can give less than accurate readings. I just went thru this myself yesterday. My folks minivan I'm borrowing to go to Indiana started dragging on starting, and would go very low overnight to the point of needing a boost. I figured, sure, it's the battery. Sunday after lunch I stopped at Oriellys and had them put the tester to it in the car. The guy farted with the tester and said, "crank it up" and I did... he said it was showing the battery was good, but the alternator had one leg of the diode bridge (rectifier bridge) out. Great... now instead of a $80 battery, it's a $180 alternator... SO, I take the thing over to my brother's shop and pull the alternator out. PITA on a Dodge minivan, lemme tell ya... Get it out, and run to lunch with the folks and then to get a new alternator. I have them put it on the alternator test machine, and sure enough, it comes back GOOD. He ran the test three times-- good, good, good. SO, it's the battery after all. Take the battery out of the van and take it walmart where it came from-- it's only 3 years old. He tests it-- BAD... shorted cell (what I figured it was-- 13 volts, but only 440 out of 660 CCA's... shorted cell for sure.) Price a new one and think I can do better at AutoZone or Oreilly... go to AZ, have them check the battery-- no good, shorted cell. Have them check the alternator too-- checks good. Went over to Oreilly (different store, different town) and have them check the battery-- bad- dead cell. Check the alternator-- tests good, he checks it twice. Buy the battery from them at a slightly better price. The "graybeard" who set up the alternator test and then turned it over to a younger guy came by and asked about it, and the kid told him it tested good. "Okay" he says, "but sometimes it's those CLUTCHES on the front of the alternator that goes bad-- the thing will test good in a test stand but will slip enough not to charge in the car". "Great" says I-- "why put a CLUTCH on an alternator?? that's the stupidest thing I've ever heard of??" "Makes it idle quieter" says the graybeard.. "Stupid Dodge"... says I... "Glad I'm a Ford man"... The graybeard looks at me humorously and says "They ALL have that now".

SO, I said, "can you fix the clutch or get a new one, or do you have to buy the whole alternator??" "whole new one" said the graybeard.... "Unless you take it to a shop that can change them out..."

Well, there was an alternator rebuilder in town, and at first my folks wanted to take it to them, until Dad called and found out they charge just as much for a rebuild job as to buy one at the parts house... So, we stop by there on the way out of town and I ask THEM to check it out. The guy checks it, runs a bench test, and comes back and tells me it's fine... shouldn't be a problem. BUT... "new vehicles don't have the alternator regulator in the alternator anymore-- it's in the vehicles' main powertrain/engine computer... and there's a LOT of stuff that can cause it to go wonky... a Dodge came in that had a faulty crank sensor and the computer wasn't reading the RPM on the engine as being high enough, so it turned off the field to the alternator-- IE wouldn't generate any power... no problem with the alternator itself, or even the computer... but the faulty sensor caused them both to go wonky... your problem is most likely different... no way to know until it's all tested together as a unit on the computer".

SO, my advice-- start with the battery. Test it. If the battery is good, you have bigger problems. If it's bad, replace it and see. If the battery is good, pull the alternator and have it bench tested at SEVERAL DIFFERENT STORES (and make sure when they test it that they punch in to the computer that it's THEIR brand... the computers are 'tilted' to show other brands are "faulty" and the house brand stuff is "good" more often than not). If the alternator is out, be prepared to pony up a couple Franklins... Merry Christmas!!! If not, then you probably need to just take it the mechanic and have them troubleshoot it...

later and good luck! OL JR :)
 
The terminals look almost new with no visual corrosion. So perhaps it's the battery and/or the alternator. I don't know how old the battery is, but my suspicion is that it is a little less 2 years old.

Greg
 
The terminals look almost new with no visual corrosion. So perhaps it's the battery and/or the alternator. I don't know how old the battery is, but my suspicion is that it is a little less 2 years old.

Car batteries can die at any age. Even if it doesn't have the big sticker on top of the battery it will probably have some date codes stamped into it somewhere.

In Texas, and other places in the south, it is difficult to get a battery to last more than 36 months in a full sized vehicle that is driven every day. My father owns a garage and I've been through this lots of times. The heat kills them. I was driving home tonight, 6 days from Christmas, and my car said that the outside temperature was 81F. I've heard that in the north where it is much cooler, a battery can sometimes last as long as its warranty period is.

I've been stranded enough times with 36+ month old batteries that I check my batteries and replace them at 36 months.

My wife's current car has its battery in a compartment under the floor where it is away from underhood heat. It will be interesting to see how much longer its battery will last.
 
The terminals look almost new with no visual corrosion. So perhaps it's the battery and/or the alternator. I don't know how old the battery is, but my suspicion is that it is a little less 2 years old.

Greg

Do you have or have access to a voltmeter? Measure the voltage across the battery with the engine off. Start the car, measure again. With the car running, and the alternater/voltage regulator working, the voltage should be higher; about 12 volts off, at least 13.4 volts while running.
 
Car batteries can die at any age. Even if it doesn't have the big sticker on top of the battery it will probably have some date codes stamped into it somewhere.

In Texas, and other places in the south, it is difficult to get a battery to last more than 36 months in a full sized vehicle that is driven every day. My father owns a garage and I've been through this lots of times. The heat kills them. I was driving home tonight, 6 days from Christmas, and my car said that the outside temperature was 81F. I've heard that in the north where it is much cooler, a battery can sometimes last as long as its warranty period is.

I've been stranded enough times with 36+ month old batteries that I check my batteries and replace them at 36 months.

My wife's current car has its battery in a compartment under the floor where it is away from underhood heat. It will be interesting to see how much longer its battery will last.

Quite true... they just don't make batteries like they used to... absolutely true...

This one I just replaced was EXACTLY 3 years old... not driven every day...

Usually driving them frequently keeps the batteries in better shape than if they are infrequently driven. When I was in mechanic's school we had some charts that showed the life cycle expectancy of batteries at various levels of discharge... IOW, how many times could they be discharged to that amount before they would be ruined... IIRC four complete 100% discharges then charge back to 100% full and discharge again and the battery was junk... whereas a 2% discharge, fairly typical of a car starting up normally, could take literally THOUSANDS of cycles before the battery was shot.

Most of the batteries I've had croak have been shorted cells... some of the lead comes off the plates, drops down to the bottom, and since they don't have as much clearance in the bottom anymore (to minimize the amount of acid electrolyte they use per battery) the lead accumulates until it shorts out two adjoining plates... then it's scrap. Just flat cheap, crap batteries is pretty much all they make now, and there really is NO difference between a "high dollar" battery and the cheapest one you can get of equivalent size anymore, not from my experience, and I go through a LOT of batteries, between 2 farm pickups, 3 minivans that my folks have, my wife's car, three farm tractors, and a bunch of motorized farm equipment, plus my brother's work car, two collector cars, and his new wife's car... plus watching my sister and BIL buy the highest priced batteries money can buy, and watching them replacing them just as often as we have to replace ours...

Longest I've seen a battery last is seven years... that one was a "Miracle battery" IMHO... don't see many like that. I've had a few more last about 5 years, a few more than that last 4, top of the bell curve seems to be 3-5 years... a few last less... more than I'd like to see...

Later! OL JR :)
 
Pulling the negative cable doesnt always show signs of a bad alternator... many cars now a days use an "emergency cut off" if the grouund cable comes loose... like stated earlier on the bad connection... the problem you are describing sounds most likely to be an alternator...

But i could be
Bad ground/negative cable
Bad coil pack
Bad distributer
Eletrical drain when off
Electrical short
Bad fuel pump
Clogged fuel filter
And several more options

Usually when an alternator goes bad the car cannot be jumpped and kills the battery... if there is any juife left in the battery the car will only run for a few minutes... your alternator should be charging ~13-14 amps... it is a simple fix that you can do in your driveway in less then an afternoon or faster...

If you can get your alternator off bring it to an autoparts store and the will check it for free... i wouldnt risk driving the car anymore... egentually it will just die... amd wont start again untill you fix the issue...


Good luck
 
I think it is too soon for the alternator to fail. When my truck needs a jump it needs a new battery. I take it to Sears and they put it on a tester, verify the problem with everything in the car. I just replace my battery a couple of months ago when I had to jump the car and it did not hold a charge. Same thing happened 5 years ago. The battery still had a few months of warranty and I got a few bucks off.
 
Do you have or have access to a voltmeter? Measure the voltage across the battery with the engine off. Start the car, measure again. With the car running, and the alternater/voltage regulator working, the voltage should be higher; about 12 volts off, at least 13.4 volts while running.

I didn't see this post until just now, but that is exactly what I did.

I found a website that looked reasonably competent (always a risk of getting REALLY bad information on the 'net) and they suggested that you use a voltmeter and check the voltage at the posts. Being a rocket guy, I did have a voltmeter. I was getting a good and consistent 13+ V with the blower going, lights on, etc. to load up the battery. So, it was likely that the battery was the culprit. I looked at the battery and it was not a maintenance free battery, as my vehicle log stated (although it came with one originally). Hmmmm.... I opened one of the covers on the battery and one cell had low fluid and in another the cell was exposed. Yikes! That's bad. So I had electronic evidence and physical evidence that the battery was bad.

So after using my battery boost to jump start it, I went to an O'Reilly's and they checked the battery with a tester. They said it had 12 volts and it said it was fine, but the negative cable was a little loose. So I got back into my vehicle to leave, confident that my battery was "good to go" at 12 volts. It wouldn't start. I used my battery boost to jump start the "fine battery", to get me on my way. Again.

So I went to a nearby Sears and got a Die Hard Gold (maintenance free, with a 3-Year Warranty, with receipt). Thankfully I enough of the right tools with me that I could R&R the battery in the parking lot.

So far so good. I have started it on 3 occasions and it started right up.

Now I just have to update my vehicle log with the correct information.

Hopefully, it's the end of this saga.

Greg
 
I dont trust autoparts employees... most of the time the ignorant to what you are saying and think they know all cause tye can find a part number... diehard batteries are a good choice... i prefer gell cell redtops though... sounds like you got the problem fixed if you have gotten it started 3 times now...
 

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