Tedious to say the least if done by hand. Having a fresh x-acto(or three) would be absolutely necessary in this case I would think.
I can't believe that this all started with an offhand remark by me...
That would be awesome... see how many of these you can build before I glue my first parts together.
I'm quite unhappy with my laminations BTW, probably gonna chuck what I've done and start over. From now on, I will only laminate pieces from the same sheet, to ensure symmetrical expansion and contraction.
Looking good. I'll have to weigh mine, and see what the plywood comes in at.
I see you didn't put in the slots and tabs for the wedge shaped 'shelves'. With the plywood, it took a good bit of force to get the pieces in place to lock-in. Just glue will be less BFI, more finicky to keep aligned during drying.
In order to do that I would have to possess the motor mount tube. Although actually the outer tube is just a BT60, so I ought to scare up a piece and give it a try.Have you test fit the motor mount tube?
That would violate Wildman Tim's Second Law. (No Engine Blocks!)
If you are using the screw on motor retainer, a few wraps of masking tape cut to about 3/16" wide works dandy.
I've built mine for a 38mm CTI 1-grain. I have a 38mm printed version of the Estes retainer. I can adapt down to 29mm and 24mm - but the adapters all depend on an aft thrust ring, rather than a motor block. I'm just getting used to putting on tape thrust rings, even on my 13mm Bs.
I should be able to fly E-G, given enough thrust.
Do saucers still need the 3:1 min thrust to weight?
Yes, but in this case the pentagonal "cap" on the top will ultimately block the use of any excessively long motor anyway, so I'd prefer to just block it in the tube a mere few millimeters further back. Tape wrapping the ends of the BP motors is fine but in this case it's a needless extra step. I think I'll probably just try those 5052H rings and see what happens.
Have you test fit the motor mount tube?
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