We cant exactly have a twelve step program, because most of the kit instructions have more than 12 steps to assembly...
Until you get into to HPR and then you get NO instructions!
We cant exactly have a twelve step program, because most of the kit instructions have more than 12 steps to assembly...
Until you get into to HPR and then you get NO instructions!
I suppose my earliest memory comes as, not everything should be flown with a C6-5.
Don't wast your money on 29mm high power RMS motor cases, go straight to 38mm.
K'Tesh,
All of my older instruction sheets have cut outs for tube marking guides and shock cord mounts. Some of the pages have dried up glue, paint and check marks. Now I make copies and keep the originals organized in folders. I only write in pencil, the completion dates on the upper left corners above the Estes logo. I keep notes of paint brands and colors with each rockets instructions for color matching for touch up or reference if I like how the color looks or holds up over time.
I also keep a flight log for each rocket which I regret not doing in the past.
I suppose my earliest memory comes as, not everything should be flown with a C6-5.
Yes, that is why they make H128 motors :tongue:
Also, that painting rockets is a good idea, especially if you want them to look at least semi-presentable years later.
I started with 29, and then 38. I see your point, but there are some rockets I have that work great on 29 mm stuff. I also really enjoy the AT H180 and H220.
1. Don't fly 2 oz models with a D12 on a soccer field surrounded by trees and houses. Actually, don't fly 4 oz models there either...
I suppose my earliest memory comes as, not everything should be flown with a C6-5.
Don't wast your money on 29mm high power RMS motor cases, go straight to 38mm.
[h=2]Things you wish you knew when you first got into rocketry...[/h]
Scratch building with new materials and processes is far more rewarding than building kits.
How much time I'd be spending on this forum. :wink:
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