The best "toy grade" ready-to-fly quadcopter systems right now

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I got these to go with my FY326 Q7:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/361209407261

They even look like the same batteries that came with the copter, and fit perfectly. Work great so far, but I've only charged one of them.

Ya still gotta watch out for eBay shippers though. They like hiking the shipping costs. I'll wait to hear what Winston says about the Amazon find I made. Comes with a 4 battery charger that has overcharge protection technology. 2 hours of charging for 5 minutes of play? BLAH, POO! I wanna spend more than 5 minutes at a time playing with it.
 
Ya still gotta watch out for eBay shippers though. They like hiking the shipping costs. I'll wait to hear what Winston says about the Amazon find I made. Comes with a 4 battery charger that has overcharge protection technology. 2 hours of charging for 5 minutes of play? BLAH, POO! I wanna spend more than 5 minutes at a time playing with it.
The batteries are 600 mah. Your charger is a USB charger. A USB 2 charger only outputs 0.5 amps so it will take over an hour to fully charge a battery if it was fully discharged. If you get a USB 3 plug-in charger (Like the Ipad) it will source 2 amps and should speed up the charging. Depending on the battery, you can usually charge a single LiPo at a 2C rate (1/2 hour) but you need a charger that can output 1.2 amps. With a USB 3 charger you might get the charge time below 20 minutes for a single battery.

Bob
 
My neighbor came over and was playing with mine having better knowledge about em than I do, and explained that, the push buttons on the controller were for calibration purposes. Somehow, I seemed to not see that mentioned in the instructions. Anyway, he was able to trim it out and get it to do what I was trying to do. Hover, and barely or not moving, and making it yaw and perform like I thought it should. Sure would have been nice if those Chinee' pepulz had mentioned that in their badly written "Engrish" instructions.
Yep, with these toy grade Chinese quads you really need to watch the reviews made by the best YouTube reviewers to know how they work. The Chinese obviously rely far too much upon computer translations and come up with useless and, often, hilarious "instructions."

This guy always makes a point of giving all of the details on the quads' controllers but, unfortunately, he hasn't reviewed the FY326:

https://www.youtube.com/user/theimacman/videos

This guy is probably the second best for reviews, but he's not at all consistent with controller coverage:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC90A4JdsSoFm1Okfu0DHTuQ/videos

With the FY326, do a general YouTube search for it to find someone who covers the controller:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=FY326

You shouldn't need much, if any, trim using the buttons your neighbor showed you. With many of these toy grade quads, it's essential that you either have them on a level surface before powering them up or place them on a level surface quickly after powering them up because that is how they calibrate their attitude sensors to a level condition. Some will rapidly flash their LEDS until they've calibrated and then slowly flash until the TX binds with them, but that varies with the model and manufacturer. With many, you can also recalibrate them at any time by landing on a level surface and putting the controller sticks in certain positions; in the FY326 case, both sticks to lower left and hold them there until the center LED blinks fast, then release the sticks.

EDIT: Quadcopter 101 actually does cover the FY326 controller functions in this initial review video:

[video=youtube;n2RTYwpeuk4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2RTYwpeuk4[/video]
 
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I was wondering, I suppose it's OK to recharge this battery if it's still juiced? I didn't run it until the lights flickered telling that the battery was low. OK to recharge at any time?
Yes. Through much digging (details like this are very hard to find, unfortunately, because most people simply don't care about nitty, gritty details) I've learned that all batteries in toy grade quads and ones sold for use in them are required by importation and shipping regs to have the charge controller and discharge limiter on the battery pack. The USB charger dongle portion is just an LED and transistor to monitor current flow to the battery (with its charge controller) and shut off or turn on the LED when the charge controller stops the current flow to the battery. However, compliance with those regs when dealing with 3rd party battery suppliers, will vary. It was your treed quad that got me thinking on the over-discharge angle for the first time and that led to my further investigation.
 
Ya still gotta watch out for eBay shippers though. They like hiking the shipping costs. I'll wait to hear what Winston says about the Amazon find I made. Comes with a 4 battery charger that has overcharge protection technology. 2 hours of charging for 5 minutes of play? BLAH, POO! I wanna spend more than 5 minutes at a time playing with it.
Those look fine and they're rated as the "#1 new release in RC vehicle batteries" which means (I looked it up) they're selling rapidly on Amazon, but no reviews, yet. However the Mudder outfit selling them has another battery set with good reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S65G8VQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

With the exception of this outlier review from an all too typical reviewer moron. Someone pointed this out to him in a reply, not that it will help.:

2.0 out of 5 stars Two Stars, April 2, 2015
By Kevin Woods
Verified Purchase
This review is from: Mudder Upgraded 680mAh 3.7V Lipo Rechargeable Battery for Syma X5 X5C Quadcopter
"not the batteries fault. I lost my drone 2 days before they came in"

Gawd...
 
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Yep, with these toy grade Chinese quads you really need to watch the reviews made by the best YouTube reviewers to know how they work. The Chinese obviously rely far too much upon computer translations and come up with useless and, often, hilarious "instructions."

This guy always makes a point of giving all of the details on the quads' controllers but, unfortunately, he hasn't reviewed the FY326:

https://www.youtube.com/user/theimacman/videos

This guy is probably the second best for reviews, but he's not at all consistent with controller coverage:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC90A4JdsSoFm1Okfu0DHTuQ/videos

With the FY326, do a general YouTube search for it to find someone who covers the controller:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=FY326

You shouldn't need much, if any, trim using the buttons your neighbor showed you. With many of these toy grade quads, it's essential that you either have them on a level surface before powering them up or place them on a level surface quickly after powering them up because that is how they calibrate their attitude sensors to a level condition. Some will rapidly flash their LEDS until they've calibrated and then slowly flash until the TX binds with them, but that varies with the model and manufacturer. With many, you can also recalibrate them at any time by landing on a level surface and putting the controller sticks in certain positions; in the FY326 case, both sticks to lower left and hold them there until the center LED blinks fast, then release the sticks.

EDIT: Quadcopter 101 actually does cover the FY326 controller functions in this initial review video:

[video=youtube;n2RTYwpeuk4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2RTYwpeuk4[/video]

In the last link, the guy mentions using an iMAX b6 Charger, so I looked them up. And like all things I came up with a plethora of listings, and I'm not quite sure which one would give the fastest charge for batteries I'm using. I'd really like to find one on Amazon so I could get the 4 pack of batteries and the charger all at once. Some of these chargers are for multiple types of batteries and come with extra wires. I just need to know which one will fit my batteries.
 
In the last link, the guy mentions using an iMAX b6 Charger, so I looked them up. And like all things I came up with a plethora of listings, and I'm not quite sure which one would give the fastest charge for batteries I'm using. I'd really like to find one on Amazon so I could get the 4 pack of batteries and the charger all at once. Some of these chargers are for multiple types of batteries and come with extra wires. I just need to know which one will fit my batteries.
I don't know which link you're talking about, but because any pack that is designed for the Syma X5C (of which your FY326 is a clone) should have the charge controller on the battery pack, you aren't going to speed up charging using an iMax b6 and, actually, you are going to slightly undercharge any X5C compatible battery pack attached to it because that iMAX b6 Charger is going to be sensing battery charge state measuring through the charge controller already on the battery pack.

Also, you cannot properly and safely charge multiple packs in parallel at the same time using the iMAX b6 even if you have the right connectors for the multiple battery packs wired in parallel. Use the multi-port USB battery charger that comes with that Amazon set you linked to, but follow bobkrech's advice on what to plug that USB charger into if you don't want longer charge times for multiple packs being charged at the same time. For field charging from a car's cigarette lighter socket, use something like this, a quality, high current USB adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEFXDO8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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I don't know which link you're talking about, but because any pack that is designed for the Syma X5C (of which your FY326 is a clone) should have the charge controller on the battery pack, you aren't going to speed up charging using an iMax b6 and, actually, you are going to slightly undercharge any X5C compatible battery pack attached to it because that iMAX b6 Charger is going to be sensing battery charge state measuring through the charge controller already on the battery pack.

Also, you cannot properly and safely charge multiple packs in parallel at the same time using the iMAX b6 even if you have the right connectors for the multiple battery packs wired in parallel. Use the multi-port USB battery charger that comes with that Amazon set you linked to, but follow bobkrech's advice on what to plug that USB charger into if you don't want longer charge times for multiple packs being charged at the same time. For field charging from a car's cigarette lighter socket, use something like this, a quality, high current USB adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEFXDO8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

You prolly figured by now, I'm quite a bit green is this department, so I sought advice. Thanks. I'll just stick to my find at Amazon, and I suppose this car charger is a go for these batteries?
 
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I got these to go with my FY326 Q7:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/361209407261

They even look like the same batteries that came with the copter, and fit perfectly. Work great so far, but I've only charged one of them.

Andy, did you see something in the trimming instructions that made you curious? There's a set of buttons that aren't even mentioned on either page. I'm wondering if these are aesthetic buttons to even out the appearance, or they have a function that just isn't mentioned. It wouldn't be the first time there were fake buttons on something. Or ones available for a different application.

Trim Buttons.jpg
 
Andy, did you see something in the trimming instructions that made you curious? There's a set of buttons that aren't even mentioned on either page. I'm wondering if these are aesthetic buttons to even out the appearance, or they have a function that just isn't mentioned. It wouldn't be the first time there were fake buttons on something. Or ones available for a different application.
The function of everything on your controller that actually does anything is discussed here:

https://youtu.be/n2RTYwpeuk4?t=4m57s
 
Andy, did you see something in the trimming instructions that made you curious? There's a set of buttons that aren't even mentioned on either page. I'm wondering if these are aesthetic buttons to even out the appearance, or they have a function that just isn't mentioned. It wouldn't be the first time there were fake buttons on something. Or ones available for a different application.

Lol. I just finally figured out how to do flips today. Those instructions are useless.
Just watched the vid Winston linked below. Ah, so now I know how to get out of beginner mode too. Will have to try that tomorrow. The vid says the trimmer you noted is for the throttle - I guess it may affect the gain on the throttle if it does anything.

Thanks for pointing out the vid Winston. That fellow certainly has a lot of information. I don't tend to watch a lot of vids when looking for info (would rather find web pages with written instructions usually) - clearly I'm going to need to watch more vids.

I also tried charging one of the batteries I got in the 3 pack at 2C with my big LiPo charger. I was surprise when Winston said the battery packs would have charge controllers built into them. It charged quite happily at 1.2 amps, so apparently these do not have charge controllers built in - or they are set for more than 1C (probably not, charging with the supplied cable from dead takes about 1.5 hours for me with a decent USB that can source 1amp, or 1.7C). Guess this means I can charge all 3 at the same time (using a special cable to treat them like a 3S pack and a balance charger). If I think of it, I'll try the supplied battery at 2C tomorrow as well - its fully charged now.
 
I don't tend to watch a lot of vids when looking for info (would rather find web pages with written instructions usually) - clearly I'm going to need to watch more vids.

Yeah, with these toy grade Chinese quads that's a must and the quickest way to find info on things like controller use.

I also tried charging one of the batteries I got in the 3 pack at 2C with my big LiPo charger. I was surprise when Winston said the battery packs would have charge controllers built into them. It charged quite happily at 1.2 amps, so apparently these do not have charge controllers built in - or they are set for more than 1C (probably not, charging with the supplied cable from dead takes about 1.5 hours for me with a decent USB that can source 1amp, or 1.7C). Guess this means I can charge all 3 at the same time (using a special cable to treat them like a 3S pack and a balance charger). If I think of it, I'll try the supplied battery at 2C tomorrow as well - its fully charged now.
All mini and micro-size size toy grade quad battery packs are supposed to have charge controllers built in due to consumer safety, shipping, and importation regs from what I've seen claimed by someone who explained everything in great detail, making it sound like he really knew what he was talking about and that he may have even been professionally involved as an importer.

The reason this subject came up is because some folks had bought generic battery packs of the right size, capacity, and connector for use in their toy grade min-quad which were not specified for any particular toy grade quad (actually not specified as intended for any specific use at all), and the batteries overcharged and puffed up using the current sensing indication only USB chargers that come with the mini/micro-quads. The charge ended in this case and the LED went off only because the packs reached 5V minus the current indicator USB charging dongle voltage drop and the current flow stopped.

If you shine a flashlight through a toy grade mini-micro-quad's USB charger dongle case, you'll see the SMD LED and the three lead SMD transistor which senses current flow and controls the LED. There are no three-lead SMD charge controllers. So, the charge controller boards are definitely in the lead end of the battery packs and when you use the USB dongles with packs that don't have that built-in charge controller, you get dangerous, puffed-up, overcharged cells.

The larger X6 quad I've listed here has a much higher capacity two-cell 7.4V battery pack, so it comes with a simple wall wart balance charger.

I, too, have charged 650mAh packs for another mid-sized quad (not an FY326) at a higher than USB port 500mA rate from a microcontroller controlled ("hobby grade") charger meant for the much larger lipo packs (none of which have built-in charge controllers) used in RC aircraft, so the charge controllers within the toy grade quad battery packs are apparently set for a higher than 1C charge rate and the limiting factor is the USB 2.0 port's 500mA max output. However, because of the voltage drop of the in-pack charge controller, you're undercharging the pack and it will have a lower mAh discharge as a result.

I didn't think of the custom balance charge cable setup to charge multiple toy grade quad packs from a hobby grade charger. That's a great idea not recommended for anyone without good soldering skills, a knowledge of lipos and their hazards, and a knowledge of exactly what is going on in the charging process. You sound like you know what you're doing, though.
 
For those of you with the knowledge I lack, I have a charger for my tablet that plugs in the wall. It's output is 5v 2A. I had to increase the dpi to 1200 when I scanned it because even with reading glasses and a magnifying glass, you couldn't read it. I was just wondering if the 4 pack of batteries with the USB charger will work with this tablet charger.

Charger.jpg
 
If you shine a flashlight through a toy grade mini-micro-quad's USB charger dongle case, you'll see the SMD LED and the three lead SMD transistor which senses current flow and controls the LED. There are no three-lead SMD charge controllers. So, the charge controller boards are definitely in the lead end of the battery packs and when you use the USB dongles with packs that don't have that built-in charge controller, you get dangerous, puffed-up, overcharged cells.

Thats a great point. I've never puffed a pack, but have seen the vids like everyone else. I do charge in a bag made for it with the more general LIPO charger. I do see now in the description of the Mudder packs you linked on amazon a note about built-in ic chips. I'm betting the ones I got don't have such.

On a side note, at least one of the batteries I got is bad, so these may not be a good choice for multiple reasons.
 
Thats a great point. I've never puffed a pack, but have seen the vids like everyone else. I do charge in a bag made for it with the more general LIPO charger. I do see now in the description of the Mudder packs you linked on amazon a note about built-in ic chips. I'm betting the ones I got don't have such.

On a side note, at least one of the batteries I got is bad, so these may not be a good choice for multiple reasons.
What battery are you referring to that went bad? The one supplied with the FY326? Or was this a spare set that had one bad out of the box?

As I said, I found a post by someone who spoke with authority on the subject that said all mini and micro toy grade quad lipo batteries are required to have the charge controller built in. Your FY326 is a Syma X5C clone, and it is known that Syma X5C batteries have the charge controller within the battery pack, so your supplied FY326 pack should be the same.

Basic rule: For the FY326, stick with Syma X5C batteries. If your USB charger dongle has a charge controller within it (unlikely), it won't be unsafe to charge those Syma X5C batteries with it. However, if the USB charger dongle doesn't have a charge controller within it (likely) and you use it on battery packs that don't have their own charge controllers within them, bad things will happen ranging from overcharging and damage to the batteries to a lipo fire which you are obviously aware of since you're using a fireproof charging bag.
 
The Symax X5C and its clones have all white props which makes it more difficult to determine orientation. Many other quads have different colored props in the front and back. An easy fix for Syma X5C and its clones is to use a permanent marker to color the front props:

[video=youtube;igVMZN3XCjU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igVMZN3XCjU[/video]
 
I have yet to see internal control circuits inside the inexpensive hobby RC LiPo battery packs, and definitely have not seen them on single cell batteries. In fact the present UN regulations are ambiguous as to whether they are required on all battery packs. IMO if the batteries are charged and used in a device that has current and voltage limiters, the regulation can be interpreted that they are not required in the battery pack.

There are several key parameters that you must know when you go to charge a LiPo battery. Printed on the battery, you should see the battery capacity in mah (milliamps-hours) or Ah (Amp-hours). This is the steady state current you can draw from the fully charged battery for 1 hour when it is discharged, and is also call the 1 C discharge (or charge) rate. A fully charge battery is a battery charged to 4.2 volts (charging above 4.2 volt damages the battery), and a fully discharged battery is drained down to 3.0 volts (going below 3.0 volts damages the battery).

The replacement battery discussed here has a nominal capacity of 600 mah and rated for a continuous 25 C current draw. In an ideal world, this means you can draw 25 x 600 ma = 15 amps for 1/25 of an hour = 2.4 minutes. In the real world, the time you can actually get the 25 C current is about 80%-90% of the ideal due to internal resistance and heating so you might only get 1.9 minutes of current before the battery is depleted. The specs say it will run your quad for 10 minutes so the C rating is C = 60 minutes / 10 minutes = 6 C which is well below the 25 C limit of the battery so you will get most of the 600 mah capacity from the battery.

The specs also say you can charge the battery in 30 minutes. The C rating for charging is thus C = 60 minutes / 30 minutes = 2 C. The current your charger must deliver is then 2 x 600 mah = 1200 ma = 1.2 amps. As a USB 2.0 port delivers only 0.5 amps, the fastest USB 2 charge time for a 600 mah battery is 600/500 = 1.2 h = 72 minutes.

In theory a protection circuit for this replacement battery would provide 4 protection functions: 1.) it will not let the voltage across a cell to go above 4.2 volts; 2.) it will disconnect the battery from the circuit if the voltage drops below 3.0 volts; 3.) it will limit the discharge current to 15 amps (25 C); and 4.) it will limit the charge current to 1.2 amps (2C).

The real bad items are 1.) and 3.). If you allow the voltage to rise above 4.2 volts per cell, you begin to irreversibly damage the battery by heating the cell and decomposing the chemicals inside the battery. The battery pouch will become hot, and swell up, burst and catch fire. In the standard UN overcharging test this will occur after about 15 minutes into the test for most LiPo cells.

If you short the battery, the current can easily reach 100 C or more (discharge time quicker than ~30 seconds) and is likely to overheat and ignite the insulation on the wires associated with the short. A short can overheat the battery, and swell and burst the pouch, however that's an unlikely event on a battery of this small.

Items 2.) and 4.) are more likely to shorten the lifetime of the battery than to create fire. If you let the cell voltage drop below 3.0 volts, you can cause irreversible changes to the battery chemistry and greatly reduce the cycle life of the battery. Similarly if you routinely recharge at higher than the recommended recharge rate, you will generate addition heat within the battery which overtime destroys the chemicals inside the battery reducing the capacity and cycle life.

FWIW

Bob
 
I have yet to see internal control circuits inside the inexpensive hobby RC LiPo battery packs, and definitely have not seen them on single cell batteries. In fact the present UN regulations are ambiguous as to whether they are required on all battery packs. IMO if the batteries are charged and used in a device that has current and voltage limiters, the regulation can be interpreted that they are not required in the battery pack.
Photo of the charge controller consisting of four six-lead SMD packages (probably four identical charge controllers in parallel for increased current handling capacity considering they're such tiny packages) found inside one of my Hubsan X4 packs that I'm using in my Hubsan X4 battery-compatible YiZhan X4. That's a nickel in the background.

EDIT: I'll say that those are definitely ganged charge controller ICs seen in the photo but whether they limit max discharge to protect the pack from over-discharge if left in, for instance, a lost quad I'm not not at all certain about and tend to doubt. One person on the forums implies that toy grade quad battery pack over-discharge (low cell voltage) protection is located on (most) quad controller boards (which makes the most sense) while another claims that both the charge controller and over-discharge protection is built into the packs.

Charge control (s).jpg
 
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From the forums, making your FY326 more crash proof. Wrap reduced width (trimmed) clear packing tape or, better yet, clear gorilla tape around the point in each arm indicated by the arrow. The top part of the arms consist of two sections and it is at the point they meet that the flex in the upper arm due to that two-part construction allows the lower arm to crack during a bad crash.

fy326.jpg
 
Nice, new review of the extremely popular FY326:

[video=youtube;Iarz-L-D0b0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iarz-L-D0b0[/video]

EDIT: A much cheaper source for the 750mAh pack he talks about:

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking...20D02S_QR_Infra_X_QR_W100S_US_Warehouse_.html

NOTE: What he should mention in that video besides providing a link to a proper microcontrolled battery charger in the text below it is that your USB charger will dangerously overcharge those packs since they DO NOT contain the protection circuit absolutely required to allow your USB charger to be safely used.
 
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Photo of the charge controller consisting of four six-lead SMD packages (probably four identical charge controllers in parallel for increased current handling capacity considering they're such tiny packages) found inside one of my Hubsan X4 packs that I'm using in my Hubsan X4 battery-compatible YiZhan X4. That's a nickel in the background.

EDIT: I'll say that those are definitely ganged charge controller ICs seen in the photo but whether they limit max discharge to protect the pack from over-discharge if left in, for instance, a lost quad I'm not not at all certain about and tend to doubt. One person on the forums implies that toy grade quad battery pack over-discharge (low cell voltage) protection is located on (most) quad controller boards (which makes the most sense) while another claims that both the charge controller and over-discharge protection is built into the packs.

I untaped one of the packs I got (the failed one - I only get 30 secs of flight time on a full pack). They definitely have a board in them, with 5 tiny tiny chips on it.
 
This is exactly where mine snapped. A little CA and a wrap of tape, fixed it all up. Good tip to tape them up ahead of time.
 
For those of you with the knowledge I lack, I have a charger for my tablet that plugs in the wall. It's output is 5v 2A. I had to increase the dpi to 1200 when I scanned it because even with reading glasses and a magnifying glass, you couldn't read it. I was just wondering if the 4 pack of batteries with the USB charger will work with this tablet charger.

Can I get a comment on this?
 
I don't know Gary, hard to tell from the picture - does it have a usb port? If it provides a USB port with 2A capability, its probably fine to use with the supplied charger that came with the q7.
 
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This information is what I have managed to dig up with considerable effort on the internet. I do not accept liability for its accuracy or for any damages from the use or misuse of this information. Bottom line: the safest method of charging your 3.7V toy grade quad lipo battery packs is to charge them per the manufacturer's instructions which, in most cases, means using the provided USB charger dongle inserted into a 500mA USB 2 port.

First of all, what I'm about to discuss applies to 3.7V battery packs specifically designated by the manufacturer for use in toy grade quadcopters. You may find another lipo battery pack with the right connector, right voltage, right dimensions, and the right capacity, but if it isn't specifically identified for use in a toy grade quadcopter, this info about built-in battery protection circuitry probably doesn't apply and if you then charge this "looks right" battery with a toy grade quadcopter's USB charger dongle, you'll end up with a permanently damaged, probably physically swollen/puffed up, overcharged battery pack that may eventually at some random point in the future turn into a nasty incendiary device in your home or inside your quad now plummeting to earth 150 yards away from where you're at.

For general lipo charging safety, never leave a charging lipo unattended and charge it on a flame-proof surface well away from flammable items. I use a thick, clay ceramic cereal bowl for the small packs, a thick clay ceramic plate for larger packs. Fire resistant lipo charging bags can also be purchased. Don't place multiple charging packs in close proximity in order to prevent a failure cascade initiated by the catastrophic failure of one pack.

The circuitry in the 3.7V pack I opened and photographed was similar to, but not exactly like this one which is also intended for a single cell (3.7V) lipo pack:

Protection Circuit Module: 3.7V Li-Polymer (8A)

https://www.tenergy.com/32003

Here are its safety features. This is why a circuit like this is required in consumer toy grade quad 3.7V lipo battery packs:

Over Charge Protection:
Over Charge Detection Voltage: 4.25±0.025V
Over Charge Release Voltage: 4.05±0.05V

Over Discharge Protection:
Over Discharge Detection Voltage: 2.5±0.062V
Over Discharge Release Voltage: 3.0±0.075V

Over Current Detection Current: 14.0~20.0A

Short Circuit Protection:
Short Protection: Exterior short circuit
Release Condition: Cut short circuit

The Chinese toy grade quad manufacturers are apparently using what is supposed to be just a lipo battery (cell) protection circuit as a charge controller. Every USB dongle supplied with the six quadcopters I own from different manufacturers and ranging in original release dates of 2012 through 2015 contains within it just a very simple current detection circuit designed to turn an LED on or off when the 3.7V lipo protection circuit in the battery pack senses a 4.25V battery (cell) voltage and ends the current flow from the USB port into the lipo cell. Whether or not the resulting charge follows an ideal lipo charge curve is beyond me. The actual intent of that maximum cell voltage cutoff provided by the protection circuit is simply to act as protection against cell overvoltage and catastrophic failure (thermal runaway) due to an external lipo charger (for instance, a hobby grade microcontroller controlled charger) which might supply a too-high voltage while charging due to a malfunction or due to the incorrect setting of the battery pack's maximum voltage by the user of that hobby grade charger.

The over-discharge protection portion of the battery protection circuit is set to end all current flow out of the lipo battery pack when the pack voltage drops to 2.5V and is supposedly intended to prevent catastrophic failure of the battery pack when it is later recharged after, for instance, having been left installed in an inaccessible crashed quad where the consumer is unable to remove the battery from the device which is discharging it. I said "supposedly" because that info is from a hobbyist's post in an RC forum, so take that claim for what it might be worth and understand that you recharge the battery pack of a recovered, previously lost toy grade quad at your own risk. (EDIT: If you do choose to take the risk of recharging a battery from a lost quad, definitely DO NOT recharge it using anything other than the manufacturer-supplied USB charging dongle plugged into a standard 500mA USB 2 port or, possibly better yet, using a hobby grade charger you are familiar with where you can set the maximum charge rate to be even lower than 500mA; in other words, DO NOT rapid charge the pack using a higher current USB port; the slower the charge rate, the better; also, follow all of the fire safety precautions mentioned above) The preferred minimum 3.7V lipo battery pack voltage when discharged is 3V, not the 2.5V trip point of the battery protection circuitry, and this criteria should be met if you remove the battery pack from the quad (or turn off the quad if it has a power switch) immediately after the quad gives its low battery indication (usually the flashing of the quad's LEDs).

The over-current protection provided by the protection circuit is intended to prevent catastrophic battery failure (thermal runaway) when an unacceptably low resistance load (ex., a dead short) is applied across its leads.

I've charged two different toy grade quad batteries using a bench DC power supply set at 5V and capable of delivering 3A. One pack was a 3.7V 380mAh lipo (Hubsan X4 clone battery), the other a 3.7V 650mAh lipo (Syma X5C clone battery). Both drew exactly 1A maximum when the charge voltage was first applied. The current draw on both went to 750mA within about 5 minutes, then dropped very slowly to about 450mA at which point the current instantly dropped to zero. Each battery pack was at 4.2V after the charge, right where the protection was supposed to cut off the charge. In both cases, the total charge time was around 40 minutes.

What that test means is that the charge times for these toy grade quad 3.7V lipo packs, at least those with a 650mAh capacity and below, won't be significantly extended by a 900mA USB 3 port, but will be by a 500mA USB 2 port. It also means that even if you're using a hobby grade microcontroller controlled charger to charge these protected packs, the maximum charge current they will accept is 1A (which is actually more than you'd normally chose when charging packs of these capacities; see next paragraph).

NOTE that the generic recommended maximum charge rate for lipos is 1C meaning 1/h x the capacity rating of the battery. A 1C charge rate for the example 380mAh pack would be 380mA, for the 680mAh pack, 680mA. In both cases, that charge current limit is approximately provided by the 500mA current supply limit of a USB port. If you use a different USB charger capable of supplying more current than that, for instance, one of the chargers supplied with a USB port and meant for the charging of smart phones or tablets, the charge rate may be allowed at the 1A maximum charge rate allowed by the battery's protection circuit, in which case you'd be charging at a 2.6C rate for the 380mAh pack and 1.5C rate for the 650mAh pack. Whether those rates are truly safe long-term is unknown to me although they are obviously the maximum charge rates set by the protection circuitry itself and I've charged these packs many times using the special 1.5A rated USB 2 and 3 ports on my PC motherboard with no noticeable negative effects. Lipo charging is endothermic meaning that the battery gets actually cold as it charges. It's an excessive discharge rate that can lead to heating and thermal runaway (and fire). However, be informed that charging these packs using anything other than a 500mA current limited USB 2 port will result in a considerably higher charge rate than the generic recommended 1C rate for packs with a capacity lower than 500mAh.

If you're charging multiple packs using one of the cheap Chinese USB dongles capable of doing that, and if you accept the possible risk of the high charge rate issue I've just raised, the USB charger used as the voltage and current source will be the cause of battery charge times beyond the minimum allowed by the battery protection circuit if it is not capable of supplying 1A times the number of batteries being charged simultaneously (eg., 2A for two, 4A for four, etc.). ANY USB charger of any kind being used for such a purpose should be closely monitored for high temperature during battery charging, at the very least on its first use while under the maximum charging load it will ever experience.

Whose regulation(s) might require this sort in-battery protection is unknown to me, but I definitely agree with it. The 2011 meeting minutes of the ANSI CI8 Subcommittee on Portable Cells and Batteries found on the CPSC website suggests that standards for lipos used in consumer toys be included in ASTM F963-11 Standard Consumer Safety Specification for Toy Safety, a document which costs $74.00. Those meeting minutes don't indicate what those standards might be.
 
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My batteries and chargers came in today. I plugged all 4 batteries in the provided charger, and three of them were done in less than an hour. Must have had a pretty good pre-charge going on. The fourth battery stayed lit on the charger and I noticed it turning into a pillow. Got puffy on both sides. Reminded me of what the battery from one of BayouRat's key chain cameras did. Apparently, it's a bad battery. I'll know better how long this charger takes after I use up the energy in these new batts.
 

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