Copy that. Sorry Neil!
If you're using a motor block ring, you could use a spent motor or empty case to center the rear most ring while you fix the fins/struts into place. It'll still have a motor sticking through it for flight, but in display mode it'd look sweet. Maybe thin ply or something stronger than Balsa to survive motor retention forces.
For your other question, that artsy fartsy rocket was a destined shelf queen that I tried to fly. I know the fin laws of rocketry very well, so I wasn't surprised that it flew terrible. It's called Time Warp and I did some noodling of my own just yesterday. Stole your aft nose cone strake idea for it too. There's a video I have to hunt down but for now, here's a 2D rendering of said noodling.
View attachment 304983
Here's a video.
My first post on this forum although I have been lurking here for years.
I've been following the evolution of your design and would like to offer a solution to the motor retention problem. The folks at Rocketarium have plastic screw-on retention rings that would allow you to keep the open motor bay. The item can be found here: https://www.apogeerockets.com/Build...w-on_Retainers_18mm/18mm_Rocketarium_Retainer
I'm close to admitting defeat on the open-air motor mount. Too many ways to fail, too few to succeed. So I'm thinking of just replacing the open part with a transition, something like this:
The transition itself becomes largely invisible (maybe I don't even need it, just an extended motor mount). I also added some nozzle doodads. What do you all think?
That looks quite nice. Is there a retainer there, or did you just friction fit?
I've officially abandoned the open engine mount, but still haven't settled on my alternative yet. Retention continues to be the challenge. I can use a hook, but it'll be a bit more visible then I'd like (although not so bad if I do actually put the transition back there, so the hook could mostly live under it.)
In the past, Micromeister has emphatically suggested that spraying a layer of clear coat accomplishes the same thing but without creating as large a paint dam (because the clear lacks pigment and simply doesn't build up as thick). I buy that, and when/if I ever apply this technique I will do it in clear.A suggestion:
After applying the masking tape, spray your black again. Before you hand paint the white and green. Spraying the black will help to prevent any white or green from getting under the tape edge.
Another thought: After spraying the black, also spray a dull clear or flat clear coat. That will provide a bit of a rougher surface for the brush paint to adhere to more evenly.
Scotty Dog said:I likey the black/green.
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