SS 2023 4” V2 Build/Launch Thread

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tg08

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I was very fortunate as to receive one of my top wishes this Christmas, the 4” LOC V2.The first thing I noticed was how horribly the boat tail was slotted. Only one fin fit into the slot, and it was a loose fit. To be fair, I guess it is harder to get straight lines on a curved surface. I used an exacto knife to carve out the fin slots, then sanded the boat tail and the nose cone for better paint and epoxy adhesion. Then I attached the eyebolt to the centering ring, and glued both centering rings into the boat tail. I let that dry overnight, then inserted the MMT and tacked the fins in place. I then realized another boat tail problem, the fin slots aren’t even at 90 degree angles! Oh well, it looks normal enough when you’re not looking top down, and it will still fly straight. Tomorrow I will start on fillets.
 

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I built this same kit a couple of months ago! Love the kit and it requires some advance building techniques. I did a build log here if it helps you.
Thread 'LOC PRECISION 4” V2 “WARRIOR” Prostate Cancer Awareness build log'
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/loc-precision-4”-v2-“warrior”-prostate-cancer-awareness-build-log.182686/
Nice build and amazing message! I thought the aft tabs on the fins weren’t meant to touch the end of the boat tail as there was so much space between it and the boat tail. :facepalm:
 
Nice build and amazing message! I thought the aft tabs on the fins weren’t meant to touch the end of the boat tail as there was so much space between it and the boat tail. :facepalm:Thanks! I’d been looking at pics of the V2 in WWII and was paying close attention to the fun can. I had also run across another build log where the stock cut fins required much work to make fit well. Good luck on your build it’s a fantastic rocket!!🥰🚀🚀🚀
 
Forgot to update this thread for a couple days. I finished my fillets, I used fondant tools and West Systems for the first time, and the fillets came out absolutely perfect. I also used painters tape to catch and excess epoxy, and peeled it off 30 minutes into the curing process. Learned a couple lessons in finishing rockets(my first time attempting a really good finish) such as using filling primer not just normal primer to fill the spirals in the BT. Also learned I don't need to sand my nosecone, now I'm buffing it out to make it smooth again. Tomorrow I hopefully should be able to start the paintjob. This is sort of a learning rocket for my upcoming L1 build, to make it as perfect as possible.
 

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Forgot to update this thread for a couple days. I finished my fillets, I used fondant tools and West Systems for the first time, and the fillets came out absolutely perfect. I also used painters tape to catch and excess epoxy, and peeled it off 30 minutes into the curing process. Learned a couple lessons in finishing rockets(my first time attempting a really good finish) such as using filling primer not just normal primer to fill the spirals in the BT. Also learned I don't need to sand my nosecone, now I'm buffing it out to make it smooth again. Tomorrow I hopefully should be able to start the paintjob. This is sort of a learning rocket for my upcoming L1 build, to make it as perfect as possible.
Looking good! 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 
Does not paint curing in the kitchen upset your wife? :oops:

I only ask is even small rockets in my kitchen cause me issues due to the out gassing. I put them in the lower level of the house if winter.

When it is warm they dry in my garage or work shed out back, not in the house.
 
It’s already been about an hour, the smell is mostly gone. Obviously I have to spray paint outside with the garage door open though, the fumes are terrible.
 
It’s already been about an hour, the smell is mostly gone. Obviously I have to spray paint outside with the garage door open though, the fumes are terrible.

Use a Painting Mask, not a covid mask when painting. As you get older your lungs will thank you.
 
Interesting, I use an N95, so I'll check in to a painting mask.

N95 if created correctly and strapped correctly can work. Just make sure it is also rated for chemical paints/solvents.

When making motors with ISO curatives I had a face mask with dual canisters that were coded yellow/purple.
 
Yesterday I got two stripes done, then today I finished the opposite two stripes. All that’s left is the little dot on the tip.
 

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All done! Well not actually. A couple things left to do, I have to sand the nose cone shoulder, add a little nose weight, and ground test. Will the heat of the epoxy curing in the nose melt the paint or make it run? If so, how should I counter that?
 

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Looks great! With the epoxy in the nose you can just submerge the top portion of the NC in some slightly cool water while the epoxy cures to sink any excess heat away. I made the mistake of using ice water and the epoxy refused to cure until I removed it from the ice water and it got closer to room temp then it kicked off fine. I’d let your paint cure for at least a week though before submerging the NC in water.
 
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