LOC PRECISION 4” V2 “WARRIOR” Prostate Cancer Awareness build log

[JoeFilgas]

Today, the first day of this build, was all about the fins. You can see in the pics just how “off” they were where they meet the fin can. I first took off about an 1/8” from the top of each tab to allow the fin to move upward so the very bottom would be snug up against the bottom of the can. Then I numbered each fin to a corresponding fin slot and began the long and tedious task of making these dry fit well. To start I installed a single fin and held up to some light so I could see where the high spots were to mark with a pencil. Then it was file some and reinstall to see how close I was. This process was repeated over and over again until I was happy with the fit. I only filed small amounts at a time before re-checking the fit. Once I had all four fitting nicely I used 150 sandpaper and a block to sand in the airfoil to all 4 fins. As you can see the fin dry fit is pretty tight. Next up I’ll be Fiberglassing all the fins separately and by themselves. I chose to go with West Systems 105 Epoxy Resin, 206 slow hardener and 406 Colloidal filler. I also have a can of 403 micro filler on the way as well. Today I also received an update from Front Range Rocket Recovery about my custom 36” Prostate Cancer Awareness blue ribbon nylon parachute! Man it’s looking fabulous! I decided to dedicate this rocket build to signify my upcoming 5 year anniversary of radical prostatectomy surgery! Right now I’m planning on using a traditional roll pattern scheme on the V2 in black and a baby blue (instead of white.) I’ll be naming it WARRIOR and will be utilizing custom vinyl graphics from my lovely wife. I’ll also have a number of smaller hash tags relating to prostate cancer awareness. This rocket will sport an Aero Tek 38mm motor retainer and an Aero Tek 38mm to 29mm adapter. Stay tuned for more build updates. So far I’m very impressed with LOC Precision…it’s my first build from this company.

 

[86mustang408w]

Nice Joe!!

 

[tsmith1315]

fabulous! I decided to dedicate this rocket build to signify my upcoming 5 year anniversary of radical prostatectomy surgery

Looking good, Joe!

More importantly, congratulations on your upcoming 5 year anniversary!

 

[86mustang408w]

Looking good, Joe!

More importantly, congratulations on your upcoming 5 year anniversary!

Yes, congratulations Joe.

 

[JoeFilgas]

Looking good, Joe!

More importantly, congratulations on your upcoming 5 year anniversary!

Thanks so much!

 

[JoeFilgas]

Nice Joe!!

Thanks Michael!

 

[JoeFilgas]

Another picture update from Front Range Rocket Recovery! Man this is a piece of art!’

 

[TXJeff]

Congrats Joe!
You hit it - the fins mismatch is the biggest problem. And it's critical to get them bonded to the engine tube as strongly as possible.
I also built this kit... but went a slightly different take. I made mine into an A8, which is the lengthened and longer range version of the A4 (V2) which was never built. Simply a longer 4" body.
And in the simulation it's more stable given the longer body.
I also have an Estes V-2, also a 4" body. But mine is strengthened with a stronger body tube and custom fins for the 38mm engine.

 

[cwbullet]

Nice chute. I have never seen a Prostate Awareness Rocket. Great idea for a project.

 

[JoeFilgas]

Congrats Joe!
You hit it - the fins mismatch is the biggest problem. And it's critical to get them bonded to the engine tube as strongly as possible.
I also built this kit... but went a slightly different take. I made mine into an A8, which is the lengthened and longer range version of the A4 (V2) which was never built. Simply a longer 4" body.
And in the simulation it's more stable given the longer body.
I also have an Estes V-2, also a 4" body. But mine is strengthened with a stronger body tube and custom fins for the 38mm engine.

Thanks! I may be slightly modifying the fins where the engine exhaust is to fit the Aero Tek retainer. Not sure yet until I start the internals dry fit process. Thanks for the tips!

 

[JoeFilgas]

Nice chute. I have never seen a Prostate Awareness Rocket. Great idea for a project.

Thank you! It’s kind of fun coming up with the project themes I do. Often something will pop up on Facebook, usually an ad for something, which sparks the idea. In this case it was a Front Range Rocket Recovery post showing his new pink cancer ribbon chute. It was a 48” and upon inquiry he said he could do a 36” version in blue which would be suitable for a 4” rocket. I was initially looking at the Estes Doorknob, but upon that specification I went searching over on the Apogee Components site and boom here was the 4” LOC V2 and I knew this was the one!

 

[JoeFilgas]

Just got the update pics from Front Range Rocket Recovery of my custom 36” Prostate Cancer Awareness Parachute! It’s absolutely gorgeous!

 

[JoeFilgas]

(WARNING! Mistake in progress! I didn’t account for the amount of MMT that needed to be aft of the lower CR! Correction follows! ) Started off today by test fitting the Aero Tek engine retainer on the MMT and fiddling with the lower centering ring in the tail cone. I did sand a slight bevel on the lower CR to better fit the end of the tail cone. Next I tried to figure out the dry fit for the upper CR. Very confusing so I sent LOC an email which they responded quite quickly to. There direction made since so I thought I followed it and got the ring in although I’m pretty sure I have it in the wrong place. Sent a couple follow up emails to LOC, but still waiting to hear back. Anyway having the upper centering ring dry fit allowed me to insert the MMT and along with the lower CR. I was able to determine the notches to be cut out of the bottom of the fins to allow passage of the screw on retainer and also to allow the side of each fin to be eventually glued to the inner retainer. More adjustment may be necessary here after I glass the fins. I the. moved on to the nosecone mods. First, using a metal Dremel saw I cut off the bottom of the nosecone and then sanded the area. Next I cut out a 1/4 aircraft plywood bulkhead to be later epoxied into the nose cone. This mod will allow about 4 plus inches to be added to recovery bay. Turns out the needed diameter for the nosecone BH is the same diameter of the upper CR so I just used the CR to trace on to the plywood blank and cut out on the bandsaw. I drilled a 1/4” hole in the center to accept the eye hook hardware. I also drilled an off center 7/8” hole to allow the eventual weight to be added to the nose. I picked up a plastic hole plug to use here under a pressure fit. There’s a shelf on the inside of the nosecone that the new bulkhead butts up against in the appropriate direction…BONUS! With 60 grit sandpaper glued to the end of a hardwood dowel I scuffed up the inside tip area of the NC. I also used a rat tail file to scuff up the area the dowel couldn’t reach. While I was at it I used 60 grit sandpaper to scuff up the area where the BH will eventually be epoxied in. Next I drilled two 1/4” holes in the upper part of the nosecone to accept a piece of 1/4” hardwood dowel acting as a hard anchor for the eventual weight/epoxy installation. The 1/4” hardwood dowel piece was then CA’d into the nosecone and trimmed. The exterior of the nose cone was then de-seamed first by dragging the blade of an Exacto knife over the seam areas followed by various grades of sand paper. This also took the pieces of external hardware dowel down to the NC surface. I then installed the top CR hardware and then epoxied this hardware along with the NC bulkhead hardware. That’s enough for today!

 

[JoeFilgas]

 

[JoeFilgas]

 

[JoeFilgas]

Well back at it on the LOC V2 WARRIOR build after being out of town. I thought I’d be doing some epoxy work today, but upon further reading the directions and dry fitting I realized I had made a big mistake. That the motor mount tube was not near low enough causing my fins to all now not even come close to where they needed to be in order to glue to the motor mount tube. So I chopped off the existing notches on the bottom of the fins and glued more 1/8” ply pieces to extend the tabs. Finally got those tuned in! I also cut a new motor mount tube an inch an a quarter longer than the original utilizing my new Estes Tube Cutting guides I picked up at Tammies Hobbies in Beaverton, OR a couple of days ago. I also sanded the glassine off the motor mount tubing. The top centering ring was sanded to fit near the top of the tail cone shoulder. I used 60 grit sandpaper to rough up the inside of the tail cone section and sanded the outside to eliminate the seams and other raised marks finishing with 220 grit. Everything is now a good dry fit! I just need to lightly sand the body tube with 220 grit and the rest is glue work and Fiberglassing the fins and opening up the fin slots on the tail cone.

 

[86mustang408w]

Well back at it on the LOC V2 WARRIOR build after being out of town. I thought I’d be doing some epoxy work today, but upon further reading the directions and dry fitting I realized I had made a big mistake. That the motor mount tube was not near low enough causing my fins to all now not even come close to where they needed to be in order to glue to the motor mount tube. So I chopped off the existing notches on the bottom of the fins and glued more 1/8” ply pieces to extend the tabs. Finally got those tuned in! I also cut a new motor mount tube an inch an a quarter longer than the original utilizing my new Estes Tube Cutting guides I picked up at Tammies Hobbies in Beaverton, OR a couple of days ago. I also sanded the glassine off the motor mount tubing. The top centering ring was sanded to fit near the top of the tail cone shoulder. I used 60 grit sandpaper to rough up the inside of the tail cone section and sanded the outside to eliminate the seams and other raised marks finishing with 220 grit. Everything is now a good dry fit! I just need to lightly sand the body tube with 220 grit and the rest is glue work and Fiberglassing the fins and opening up the fin slots on the tail cone.

Cool, looks great Joe!

 

[JoeFilgas]

Cool, looks great Joe!

Thanks Michael! Good to be back at it!

 

[86mustang408w]

Thanks Michael! Good to be back at it!

Nice, glad you are as well. I'm doing my best to get mine done too!

 

[Tim51]

Great build - following with interest, and thanks for raising awareness.

A bit of local history from my neck of the woods which may be of interest: I live a short walk from Hughes Mansions (a housing scheme) on Vallance Road (Whitechapel, London UK), which was the site of the penultimate V2 strike - and one of the deadliest - in March '45. The flats were rebuilt after WW2 and there's a small memorial there now.

What is your intended paint scheme?

 

[cwbullet]

That came out nicely.

 

[DAllen]

View attachment 610789

Use thread-lock instead...simpler than mixing up a teeny tiny batch of epoxy.

 

[JoeFilgas]

Decided to glue the lower TC CR to the MMT tube with TB 2 as well as the engine retainer with high heat JB Weld epoxy. I also got the West Systems epoxy out and working to fiberglass the first side of the fins.

 

[JoeFilgas]

Great build - following with interest, and thanks for raising awareness.

A bit of local history from my neck of the woods which may be of interest: I live a short walk from Hughes Mansions (a housing scheme) on Vallance Road (Whitechapel, London UK), which was the site of the penultimate V2 strike - and one of the deadliest - in March '45. The flats were rebuilt after WW2 and there's a small memorial there now.

What is your intended paint scheme?

Wow thanks for the history! I’m going to do the standard historical roll pattern in black and baby blue.

 

[JoeFilgas]

That came out nicely.

Thanks it’s coming along!

 

[JoeFilgas]

Last night I trimmed out the glass on the fins while the epoxy was green. This morning I sanded and cleaned up the edges to receive the fiberglass cloth to the other side. A repeat of yesterday’s application as side 2 of the fins were glassed. I’m departing a bit from the directions next by gluing in the bottom CR/MMT into the tail cone using a dry fit top CR to hold everything in place. Once I glue in the fins the top CR will be removed to expose the internal joints so I can fillet everything. I mixed up some more West Systems epoxy with 406 colloidal filler and applied a generous amount to the inside of the tail cone followed by the insertion and placement of the assembly. A bit of glue oozed out from the bottom of the tail cone joint so I cleaned that up and a little that caught the engine retainer threads. I used a paper towel with alcohol to do that and set the tail cone aside to dry. Next I applied a generous amount of the filler epoxy mixture to the inside of the nose cone where the forward bulkhead will go. Both the entire inside of the NC and TC had been wiped down with alcohol before applying the epoxy. The forward bulkhead was then inserted and seated into position. I made the external fillet as well and set aside to dry. That’s all for today!

 

[JoeFilgas]

Started off today with sanding the fiberglassed fins down with 220 grit. Then, using a regular sized file, the fin can slots were widened slightly to accommodate the now thicker fins. The bottom of the fin can motor mount/retainer area was then sanded and prepared for the fins to be glued. I mixed up a batch of the West Systems resin w/206 hardener and 406 colloidal filler and applied to to fin #1 and then inserted into its slot. I did a preliminary alignment and used some blue painters tape to hold it there. The same procedure was used for the opposing fin #3 and temporarily secured. Considerable time was spent aligning both fins and then adding more blue tape to secure. I’ll set this aside over night and will do fins #2/#4 tomorrow.

 

[JoeFilgas]

Decided to fill the spirals with Bondo Autobody glazing putty and a razor blade to apply.

 

[JoeFilgas]

Started by sanding down the BT’s previously filled spirals. Next I injected some West Systems epoxy with 406 colloidal filler into the nose cone bulkhead to fillet the top of the bulkhead. I then installed the remaining two fins with the West Systems and 406 filler like I did yesterday. The two fins were aligned and then blue masking tape was added to hold everything in place. I’ll let that sit overnight to cure. I thought now would be a good time to work on the OR Sim and downloaded the rkt file from Apogee Components website for the V2. I spent a few hours tweaking that file based upon my build. For some reason I can’t figure out yet why the CP is too far forward and the stability number is horribly low regardless of adding various motors. Even adding a massive amount of weight to the nose didn’t improve the stability at all so the program doesn’t seem to be working right. I’m going to see if there’s a newer version of Open Rocket. I finally had enough of the computer.

 

[bad_idea]

If you have OpenRocket 22.02 already, I would try recreating the design in OpenRocket from scratch. If not, install 22.02 and see what results you get.