Shear pins with light cardboard tubing?

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Zyzzyva1000

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So I just built an Estes Vapor (after the old one died from an E12 CATO) and made some upgrades (plywood fins/rings, dual deploy with the apogee BT60 ebay and a tracker sled in the nosecone). Now I am just trying to figure out what to do for shear pins (or just tape?). I normally use M2 nylon screws for my cardboard rockets (and strengthen the holes with CA), which has always worked fine. But these have all been heavier LOC tubing, and I am concerned that Estes BT60 tubing may not do so well.

So anyone have any recommendations, just use some tape on the shoulder for a friction fit? I have definitely discovered that using just 1 pin doesn't work (almost had a disaster with that, with just 1 the nose cone tries to rotate around the screw instead of breaking it). Not sure there are smaller nylon screws than M2. Anyone have any other ideas?
 
Others have used tape and I haven't done dd on small diameter cardboard. However I was recently dealing with an av bay that used a stiffy coupler, which is soft and the shear pins were stretching and gouging the bay.

I thought of and tried using M2 washers recessed and epoxied in my bay and they worked like a charm with the 2-56 nylon shear pins I use. (Bay tube exterior was also CA'd, Ymmv, ground test, ground test, ...)

20231204_130508.jpg
 
I've cut Scotch tape down into strips about 3/8" wide and used that on lightweight rockets to hold on nose cones/AV bays in lieu of shear pins. Never had an issue. Nylon shear pins are too stiff for LPR tubing, they will either tear up the tube or fail to shear.
Thanks Cris. I think this may be the answer
 
While I agree with Cris about this rocket, be aware some flyers use styrene rod for shear pins. It’s available in much smaller sizes.
I will have to look into this, was not aware. I will have my eggfinder mini in the nosecone, so compared to an empty estes nosecone there is a bit of weight to it. Makes sense to have $$ worth of electronics etc in a $15 rocket right?
 
While I agree with Cris about this rocket, be aware some flyers use styrene rod for shear pins. It’s available in much smaller sizes.
shear pins really are too much on the lightweight Estes tubing, the aforementioned Scotch tape (aka christmas wrap tape) or the aluminum duct tape works with testing as "shear" tape when cut to exact widths across the joint of the airframe and nosecone.
 
I think shear pins is too much in any cardboard rocket. It's light enough a little friction fit will work just fine. As long as you make sure the whole system is done right. The OP has built an Estes rocket with "So I just built an Estes Vapor (after the old one died from an E12 CATO) and made some upgrades (plywood fins/rings, dual deploy with the apogee BT60 ebay and a tracker sled in the nosecone)."

Keep the apogee ejection charge small. Much smaller than motor eject. You only want to open the rocket so the drogue gets into the air stream. You don't need the sections to reach the ends of the shock cord. You don't need any friction fit or pins on the apogee joint between the payload section and booster which allows you to use smaller charges. Just friction fit the nose cone so you can pick up the rocket without the nose cone coming completely out.

Fly it 2 - 3 times on small motors so you can watch the deployment, see how it falls, and adjust charges and drogue size.

Sounds like a fun rocket.
 
Cardboard tube rockets I use masking tape on the shoulder for a friction fit. Shear pins are for rigid materials like fiberglass or PML phenolic.
 
Cardboard tube rockets I use masking tape on the shoulder for a friction fit. Shear pins are for rigid materials like fiberglass or PML phenolic.
Fair enough. I have used #2 nylon pins in LOC tubing for 3 and 4 inch rockets without issue many times (and just strengthened the holes be wicking some thin CA). But it seems that some tape is all I need here. As suggested I will try a composite E or F before jumping to a G motor (and then Im pretty sure I am limited to at most a G 80, since I don't think standard BT60 will do super well going into the transsonic range)
 
I use #2 screws in LOC tubes with great success but always failed with thinned tubing (Estes).
I have actually blown apart the upper tubing trying to get the #2 screw to shear.
Now just use tape for a slight tighter friction fit.
 
In all my DD rockets I use brass blades to shear the pins. Haven't done it on any others. Most of my tubes come from BMS. If it's a 4" it's a LOC tube. BMS 3" tubes are a little lighter than LOC 3" tubes. I have a few BT80 DD rockets and a couple BT70 DD rockets set up for DD. I only tore a couple tubes. Then I found out about the blades here on TRF. I've been using them ever since.
 
In all my DD rockets I use brass blades to shear the pins. Haven't done it on any others. Most of my tubes come from BMS. If it's a 4" it's a LOC tube. BMS 3" tubes are a little lighter than LOC 3" tubes. I have a few BT80 DD rockets and a couple BT70 DD rockets set up for DD. I only tore a couple tubes. Then I found out about the blades here on TRF. I've been using them ever since.
It is only needed on thinner walled tubes.
 
Like @tsmith1315 mentioned, I for one, have been using 1/16 inch styrene rod shear pins on my dual deployment rockets since the 1990's when I learned about it, probably on the RMR news group.

And when I am flying cardboard tubes and/or plastic nose cones, I use aluminum soda can blades to reinforce plain cardboard or soft plastic materials that are liable to 'waller out' over time.

I have only ever used a single polystyrene pin for each joint, one for the nose and one for the the av-bay on my traditional dual deployment rockets.

Align the holes, shove a styrene rod thru the holes and trim them flush with the surface of the airframe with side-cutters or an Exacto knife.

Styrene rod pins have worked fine for me on flights to 12K feet to keep my low mass, empty nose cones connected to the main chute bay during drogue descent.

And they have also worked fine on flights up to Mach 1.4 to keep my mid-body recovery section coupler attached to the booster during the coast-phase.

After recovery, I generally find a the holes blocked by the sheared off polystyrene material which I can push thru with the cylindrical tip of my Pentel mechanical pencil.

I could see that the rods are cut cleanly without any distortion when I bothered to look back when I first started using them.

And after numerous flights, there is no notable wear on the aluminum blades or the cardboard tubes or plastic nose shoulder on my cardboard LOC Vulcanite or even on my 4-inch cardboard Iris.

One note. If you install a blade on your coupler or nose cone shoulder, be sure to install a matching blade on the inside of your cardboard tube.

I did suffer a wallered hole on an unbladed, glass-wrapped cardboard tube of my 1.9 inch Vulcanette scale model when I thought the outer wrap of glass was good enough -- it wasn't -- the interior of the airframe hole was distorted by the styrene rod so I added a blade to the inside arc of the airframe and drilled a new hole.

Note that the thin aluminum blades work fine with styrene shear pins but I MIGHT go with brass blades if I ever feel like I need to change over to nylon screws, say when I start flying a tracker in the nose.

I would definitely want to test the effectiveness of the soft-ish aluminum blades -vs- nylon machine screws.

This is a Mach 1 'kit' I've gathered for an upcoming BT-55 fiberglass rocket that I am building to replace my cardboard 'La Pequeña Vulcanita 34' which was damaged due to an AV-Bay brown-out at apogee and then landing on an asphalt road on a streamer:
LPV-parts-20231126_113032.jpg
Note the Mach 1 polystyrene nose cone with the band of sanded, HEB Original Cola can material CA'd to the shoulder ( there is a matching band on the opposite side ) to keep the nose cone square with the air frame.

I have not drilled the holes yet -- I usually drill the holes after the rocket is finished and assembled, just before I prep for primer.

HTH and have fun !

-- kjh
 
I've had good luck with using aluminum foil tape / aluminum duct tape. I will cut 3-4 1/2" wide strips about an inch long and lay them equidistant around the circumference of the seam. I call it "shear tape". I've done this up to L1 stuff in 3in cardboard. Like everything, TEST!
 
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