Sanding curved spots / body tube ends

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Angel_of_the_Skies

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2023
Messages
127
Reaction score
51
Location
Houston
What sanding blocks / sponges do you use for your rocket projects ?

Do you use different blocks for different applications such as sanding the priming stages vs clear coat ? If so what ?

What do you use to sand the fillets or launch lugs of your rockets ?
 
For fillets, I use sand paper wrapped around an appropriately sized rod, stick or dowel.

For primer sanding, assuming I didn't mess up and I'm not trying to remove the primer, I'll start with 400, then go to 600/800. I don't do 200 or 300 as sometimes it deeply gouges the primer and it takes more layers of paint that I'm willing to spend (or launch into the air) to get a smooth finish.

I usually don't sand color coats unless there's an issue or problem. I never sand clear coats (I'll use a 2X Rustoleoum or Krylon brand or Future floor polish).

As for use of blocks, I rarely use them. I just let my fingers or hand conform to the shape of what I'm trying to sand (BT-20, BT-50, BT-55 or BT-60 main body tubes, etc.). I sometimes use blocks for fins, though.
 
For fillets, I use sand paper wrapped around an appropriately sized rod, stick or dowel.
Taking my rocket to the depot next time to try out different rod sizes lol
For primer sanding, assuming I didn't mess up and I'm not trying to remove the primer, I'll start with 400, then go to 600/800. I don't do 200 or 300 as sometimes it deeply gouges the primer and it takes more layers of paint that I'm willing to spend (or launch into the air) to get a smooth finish.
That’s the hard part. I’ll admit I sacrifice some altitude in order to not sand too much. I’ll only sand my filler / primer once the gray turns into a lighter shade, indicating it’s been sanded
 
several guys posted in another thread about sanding the edges of body tubes. They hold it against a benchtop disc sander with 80 grit, YES 80 grit :eek:
 
For fillets, I either let my finger conform or use a dowel/rod/whatever, depending on the size. For composite curves like most nose cones, I let my palm or finger(s) conform. For body tubes and fins I use a block, and my block is a four inch long (approximately) piece of S4S oak 1×3.
 
Back
Top