Rolling tubes...is white glue ok?

[McKailas Dad]

I've rolled a fair amount of my own body tubes (using drywall tape lol) and I've always used yellow glue.

I usually do 3 alternating layers, but have made super light tubes with 2 layers. I've done 4-5 layers but doesn't seem necessary for what I'm trying to accomplish...Fat+light


Two questions.. Would white glue work well? I think it may dry a little more flexible than yellow glue, but that may not be all bad.

Second question.. Could yellow glue be thinned? I'm figuring water would work?

Maybe not ideal, but would thinned yellow glue work better than white?

I'm not worried about the waterproof ability, nor the heat resistance. I'm wanting to roll a stuffer tube, so it won't be exposed, and will have a 'stock' tube with CR's into the stuffer for a motor mount.

 

[Sooner Boomer]

Yes to both questions.

would thinned yellow glue work better than white?

I think it depends on how much the glue soaks into the paper (vs just sitting on the surface). Can you do samples of each? One thing to mention - you need to be consistent on how you thin the glue - measure it so you can duplicate the mix.

 

[McKailas Dad]

Cool, thanks for the quick reply. I'll try a few 'recipes' for thinning the yellow glue. Maybe start around 4 parts glue to 1 part water? 50/50 may be way too thin, but I'll see...

Yellow glue seems to grab pretty quick when I roll, maybe thinning it will give me that extra minute or two to straighten my wrap. I go edge to edge with no overlap.

 

[mrichhcirm]

I recommend Mod Podge. It's essentially thinned white glue and is made for laminating paper and decoupage. You could mix it yourself I guess but if youre going to roll a lot of tubes I recommend it. It brushes nicely and dries clear, and works well as a sealcoat.

 

[Rex R]

Jeff, I wouldn't go any thinner than 75%/25% glue water. that was the suggested ratio for 'stick and paper' airplanes, and it sure is runny at that mix.
Rex

 

[rharshberger]

Best thing is to check the manufacturers website for the spec sheets on the product, I know (because I have thinned it) that Titebond I, II, have instructions on what percentage is permissable to thin. Elmers Glue-All (not School Glue) probably also has instructions for thinning it. If you have problems with the yellow glues setting to fast, Titebond does make an extended version of TB I and TB II iirc, I have used one just can't remember which to laminate a curve handrail.

 

[Handeman]

Something you should consider, adding a few drops of dish washing detergent. That breaks the surface tension and causes the glue to soak in much easier.

I learned about that doing road beds on model trains. You mix the glue and water with a little dish soap and spray it over the gravel track bed. It soaks in and glues all the gravel together. It doesn't work without the soap.

 

[Sooner Boomer]

One thing to keep in mind is that these are solvent-carried glues, unlike catalyzed glues such as epoxies. They cure by solvent evaporation. This means they shrink as they dry. The more solvent, the more they shrink - the more you thin them with water, the more they will shrink. This can work for you, or against you.

 

[McKailas Dad]

One thing to keep in mind is that these are solvent-carried glues, unlike catalyzed glues such as epoxies. They cure by solvent evaporation. This means they shrink as they dry. The more solvent, the more they shrink - the more you thin them with water, the more they will shrink. This can work for you, or against you.

I found that out the hard way, I've had a tube or two get stuck to the mandrel. Though not stuck by glue, but because it shrunk.

I found misting the wrapped tube with water was enough to get it back off, but I like my new way... I cut a 1/4" wide slit in the mandrel, and fill it back in with a 1/4" dowel. I can wrap tight as a drum, let it dry, and it slides right off when I pull out the dowel. I can even put it back -on- the mandrel...slick

 

[Pat_B]

I've had good luck by using packing tape that already have the glue on the backing. Just had to dip in water and roll.

 

[McKailas Dad]

I've had good luck by using packing tape that already have the glue on the backing. Just had to dip in water and roll.

Funny you should mention that, I think that crossed my mind at about 3am I've used it before (packing boxes) but I'm concerned it may grab to quickly? Butting edge to edge, I often have to slightly reposition the angle, to avoid overlapping. Thanks for the tip, I'll see if they carry it at Wally World, certainly worth a try!

 

[Sooner Boomer]

I've had good luck by using packing tape that already have the glue on the backing. Just had to dip in water and roll.

Where can you find that? I haven't seen gummed tape in a long time. Almost everything now has the sticky adhesive on it. With the gummed tape (the adhesive is actually a starch), you can make your own decals.

 

[McKailas Dad]

Where can you find that? I haven't seen gummed tape in a long time. Almost everything now has the sticky adhesive on it. With the gummed tape (the adhesive is actually a starch), you can make your own decals.

I'm thinking if Wally World doesn't have it, maybe an office supply store might have it? Office Depot, Staples? I'm sure I could find it online, but I'd rather buy it local.

 

[Pat_B]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042SRBVM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

There was an old article in Sport Rocketry about rolling your own tubes and I just followed those instructions. I think the initial wrap of tape was done by having the adhesive facing outwards. The subsequent wrap was inward. The tape dries quickly, but you can reposition it for about 30 seconds or so. The tape is thick enough that it's really easy to get the edges to match up when wrapping it so that repositioning is rarely necessary.