PC ROT TERMINATOR, ever use it?

[TALON]

I have seen all the techniques for hardening balsa, specifically nose cones. I was contemplating using MINWAX Wood hardener, but it is hard to find (Govmt. Regs?). I heard that "PC Petrified" is a acceptable substitute. While searching for PC I found "PC Rot Terminator", which states "is structural wood hardener designed to strengthen decayed or rotted wood". Has anyone used this? It is a 2 part epoxy and it is the "structural" part that I like. *Below is a link to the product, any thoughts if this will work, on nose cones. THX.


https://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/wood-repair/pc-rot-terminator.php

 

[luke strawwalker]

The problems I've seen and read about with these products is getting them to penetrate... you literally have to soak the wood for fairly long periods, and it takes even longer to cure... I think there's a thread around here somewhere that Marc (IIRC) did posting his experiences with this sort of stuff... letting it soak for days and cure for weeks before the wood was "work ready" (sanding and building) and then after all that, it still just wasn't all that hard... the results seemed to leave something to be desired...

I mean, it's worth a shot, but is it worth the hassle?? Some folks use the CA hardening or brush on a few layers of epoxy... and still get dings and stuff...

Usually stuff for "rotted wood" is just designed to sort of soak into the outer layers and build it up a bit with some resins... sort of what one of my instructors used to call "mechanic in a can" type stuff to add to your oil or gas to "reverse engine damage" and stuff like that-- "magic lotions and potions"...

Maybe someone else has better experience with it and will chime in. Experiment with us and report back... maybe you found something that actually works... who knows...

Later and good luck! OL JR

 

[blackjack2564]

Yes, I have used gallons of the stuff. For 28yrs I did Historic house restoration/painting.

It was used where priceless old wood molding/trim was weathered or rotten. It was more economical to stabilize the existing wood, then fill in with new additions where needed,rather than replace entire units. Most typical use was window sills and sash bottoms, ginger bread trim, etc.

We would brush on flat surfaces and inject deep areas, especially vertical where run off was a concern.

Cure time ran anywhere from overnight in 90-100 temps to a week or more in 30-50 temps.

Cures up rock solid & sand-able. I found where rot was not a concern I could achieve very similar result by using standard epoxy thinned with DENATURED [not rubbing] alcohol and applying it the same way. Thin it according to the depth of penetration required. It was much more economical this way. Of course I was using gallons of the stuff all over house exteriors.
If it's available in small packages I'd give it a try. First I would go with my alternative method if you have any epoxy on hand.

 

[TALON]

Thanks guys. After I posted the question I did more research and the consensus is what JR stated. Ad the price into the equation & I will pass. Thanks again for the input