So I've got a HyperLoc 1600, and I want to put a good paint finish on it. I've read around a little, and bought
this.
As of right now, I'm planning to put this on the wood fins, but was considering putting this on the cardboard body tube also. Any suggestions? I'm planning on spray painting everything a couple times over, but am looking for a pretty glossy finish if I can get it... thanks!
Patra or Midwest Sanding sealer is just that a Sealer. It does not have enough solids in it to quickly build up in wood grain or body tube seams. There is a Balsa Filler that has plenty of Solids for sealing Bass or Balsa wood but doesn't do a very good job on body tube seams as it has a tendency to crack with rough handling.
I Haven't used any kind of Wood Filler or Body Tube Seam filler in more the 20years now. I use the Cheapest Grey, Brown or Black Auto primer I can get (currently Wal-Mart Colorplace Grey & Brown) .85 to 1.30 per can depending on how many you buy.
The process is very easy. Apply 3 heavy wet coats on the entire model allowing about 3 minutes between coats. If the Balsa Fins, Transition and NoseCone have very deep grain, Hit them first before the first overall model coat. After those 3 wet coats have been applied let the model sit over night, sometimes 2 days depending on the humidity when you sprayed. USE the Sniff Test to determine if the first 3 coats have cured...
.( with you nose ON the surface of the model if you can still smell solvent it is NOT ready for sanding) If it has outgassed then sand all surfaces with 220 -240 grit sand paper. If bare wood or cardboard is reached. Stop sanding and apply another 3 wet coats of Primer, let cure overnight and repeat. This time you should be able to reduce the grit to 320-360 sandpaper until a completely smooth surface is obtained. The model is now ready for it's first base Color coat, apply lightly, allow to dry and check for blemishes, dust, hairs and other imperfections. If you find any they can be removed with light wet sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper. Taking extra care not to get the open exposed edges of the tube wet in the process. If you are not comfortable this step can be done with Dry 400-600grit sandpaper. Once the surface blemish(s) have been removed it's time to apply the lightest of the Top color coats. Allow to dry completely (Sniff Test) then mask and apply whatever other colors are in the paint scheme.
After the color coats have completely dried (Sniff Test and at least a couple extra days allowed). Any Paint Dams can be removed by rubbing with 3m Finessit-II Polishing medium. ( NOTE THIS IS NOT A RUBBING COMPOUND). Follow the directions on the bottle. With a soft cotton cloth, a little Finessit-II and some elbow grease all hint of any paint dam(s), stray dust, hair ect will be gone. Decals are then applied. After decals or Vinyl sticker decorating if a protective coating is desired the I strongly suggest the use of Pledge with Future over any other rattle can Clear coat. Pledge vinyl Floor Polish is an acrylic coating with UV additive at is not only more flexible then Rattle Can Clears it can also be touched up a any time without much trouble or build up. If applying Pledge with a polybrush or papertowel swab seems like to much trouble. The only Other clear coat product I recommend for application to entire models is NU-Finish Polymer Car polish. It is NOT a wax but a Polymer the binds with the applied paint. IT does not harden to a cracking coating as ALL Rattle Can Clear Coats do. It also can be re-applied at any time without worry about build up and Protest applied decals and paint much better then Rattle Can Clears.
The ONLY use I have for Rattle Can Clear Coatings is Krylon UV Resistant Clear Both Matte and Gloss along with Krylon 1306 workable Fixitif which are used to seal and protect inkjet and Alps printer made entire decal Sheets before the are cut.
