NEW Kit The PAINKILLER 3! by Gary T. Designs

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Man how can you afford that price? Looking around a comparable kit cost more... When will they be available for shipping? Is the air frame pre slotted? Thanks
 
dander said:
Man that is one fantastic looking kit, I'd love to pick one up, but the responsible side of me says build what I've got since I seem to have a lifetime supply of kits. Any enablers want to chime in?

Dave
Click to expand...

Daveeeeeee,,,,,,,,,,
This is your conscious talkinggggggg................
You need this rocketttttttttttttttt.............
What's one more build in the front of the pile going to matterrrrr..........

Your inner selffffffffffff
 
Just ordered the kit hopefully the shipping is fast... THANKS MR. T hope to receive it soon
 
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John, Thanks for choosing the Painkiller kit, your kit is boxed and is shipping out today! Anyone who's ordered Blastcaps can attest to my ultra fast shipping. Also I've refunded you a few dollars in the shipping, I always refund any overages.

Thanks again Gary T.
 
I have a bunch of people picking up their PAINKILLER kits at URRF 2. If your interested in reserving a kit for delivery at URRF you can do so by Paypaling me the 119.00 to [email protected], just select sending money to Families & Friends. Why not save a few bucks on shipping.

I will have kits on hand for sale but to be sure on getting one "Reserve one now"

Thanks! Gary T.
 
stealth6 said:
Do your circuits gleam?
Are you perpetual?
Do you keep the country clean?

s6
Click to expand...
Sorry that line was Electric Eye from the album Screaming for vengence. Painkiller is a later but still a way cool song.
Mr. Bob
Starlight Dude
Countyline hobbies
 
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Wonder what this could be....

1402351899409.jpg
 
Well this is my first fiberglass rocket and everything is awesome... Just one question are there any instructions downloadable
 
The reason I ask is because there are three small bulk plates and two large ones and two coupler like pieces.. I just don't want to screw the rocket up
 
The shorter coupler is the NC shoulder/coupler, the longer coupler is for your Av-Bay. One of the smaller bulk plates is for the NC. The others are for the Av-Bay, 2 inner and 2 outer.
 
Blastcap Rocketry said:
The shorter coupler is the NC shoulder/coupler, the longer coupler is for your Av-Bay. One of the smaller bulk plates is for the NC. The others are for the Av-Bay, 2 inner and 2 outer.
Click to expand...

On the money Gary,,,,,,,,,,
Both a coupler bulkhead and a airframe bulkhead on both sides of the avionics bay...............
That's how ya do it...........

Teddy
 
Okay that makes sense... Another question if you don't mind... Would it be okay to tap a hole in one of the mmt centering rings for an eyebolt for the shock cord? What epoxy do you recommend? I'll be doing 54MM J,K,L
 
John,
An eyebolt won't fit between the MM and BT wall, especially with longer motors. What I'd suggest is you file 2 notches on the inner side of the CR, one at 9 O'clock and the other at 3 O'clock. Take a piece of 1/4" tubular Kevlar and run it trough the notches, tie a knot on the underside of the CR then epoxy it to the MM.
 
Okay how long of a piece of Kevlar? If you have an example could you post a picture? If not I'll figure it out. Thanks for putting up with my questions I know they should be known already.
 
No Problem, I don't include instructions as most builders have their own ways of doing things anyway. As for the Kevlar make it long enough to extend up and out the BT by 6" or so, then back down to the notch on the other side.
 
This thread is an index of a thread Crazy Jim did for the wildman 3" darkstar. It's really good info for just about any fiberglass build. If you search around you'll find threads for darkstars, intimidators, dominators, etc. Anything 3" to 54mm or 4" to 75mm should translate to this build fairly well. There are many options to choose from in how you do the av-bay and nosecone in particular.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...-quot-Stock-quot-3IN-DARKSTAR-CJ-Step-By-Step

Something I found out on my darkstar is that there are many small details that can make a big difference. As soon as I finish up that and my 3" wildman build....I have a feeling this kit will be next on the workbench.
 
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DizWolf said:
This thread is an index of a thread Crazy Jim did for the wildman 3" darkstar. It's really good info for just about any fiberglass build. If you search around you'll find threads for darkstars, intimidators, dominators, etc. Anything 3" to 54mm or 4" to 75mm should translate to this build fairly well. There are many options to choose from in how you do the av-bay and nosecone in particular.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...-quot-Stock-quot-3IN-DARKSTAR-CJ-Step-By-Step
Click to expand...

This is another reason I don't include instructions. Thanks Dave. John you might be better off doing a build thread in the "High Power" section, ask a question there and you'll get a 100 different answers to each question, listen to them all and choose the one that fits your needs best,
 
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A build thread is an excellent idea. When I did my L1 I basically posted a photo of the parts and said "ok wow how should I do this?" and progressed along getting advice along the way. internal fillets, CR placement, retainer spacing, harnessing, bay and shear pin setup, vents.... all things that will vary depending on your goals. Many ways to skin a cat.... and always new ways you may discover yourself looking at it.
 
Alethins said:
What diameter band would I need to get for the 7" coupler? Thanks
Click to expand...

g zilla said:
1 " cut off of body tube or payload section
Click to expand...

Or just forget the switch band and make everything internal.
I started doing this when it became painfully obvious to me that I couldn't get the ends of the tubes cut as square as the vendors could.:eek:
I don't like the ends to be misaligned as this can lead to airframe failure.
I use Featherweight Screw and Magnetic switches or a Power Perch if I am installing a Raven.
Really, you can mount almost any switch internally so it can be activated through a vent hole. Just my :2: .
 
Sailorbill said:
Or just forget the switch band and make everything internal.
I started doing this when it became painfully obvious to me that I couldn't get the ends of the tubes cut as square as the vendors could.:eek:
I don't like the ends to be misaligned as this can lead to airframe failure.
I use Featherweight Screw and Magnetic switches or a Power Perch if I am installing a Raven.
Really, you can mount almost any switch internally so it can be activated through a vent hole. Just my :2: .
Click to expand...

I agree completely Bill....
I never use a switch band
and I do have the way to cut airframe square...
I'd just rather everything be internal
and accessed through a vent hole.....
I think it's a cleaner build that way.......

Teddy
 
Gary,
I have always been absolutely amazed at the "flair" Mark H has for designing vinyl graphics.......
You have that same level of "flair" for designing rockets...........
Man,, have you got a winner on your hands with this one .......
I'll bet you anything this design become as popular as the Shapeshifter is..........

Teddy
 

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