Let's Talk About Painting the LOC 4' Goblin

[Stargeezer]

I just now got mine finished. I am in the process of beginning to sand and paint. I'm wondering if anyone out there can give me some advice on painting this beast?

Also, off topic but maybe someone can advise me on how to install the rail buttons? I can probably manage the FWD ring button......but to attatch the second to the MID ring I'm really not sure how far down to go and I admittedly forgot to measure everything before I jammed the motor can into the body. So....yikes.

 

[David Schwantz]

I would put rear button down towards the rear most CR. What questions do you have for the paint. Do you use a gun or spray bombs? Where do you paint?

 

[David Schwantz]

What type of paint? Colors? Yellow is hard to cover, can look green if you don't get enough coats on. What type of primer?

 

[David Schwantz]

Measure down from the top of the fin where it goes into the tube 1/8". Since the ply is 1/4", subtracting 1/8" will put you in the middle of the middle CR.

 

[Scott_650]

I just now got mine finished. I am in the process of beginning to sand and paint. I'm wondering if anyone out there can give me some advice on painting this beast?

Also, off topic but maybe someone can advise me on how to install the rail buttons? I can probably manage the FWD ring button......but to attatch the second to the MID ring I'm really not sure how far down to go and I admittedly forgot to measure everything before I jammed the motor can into the body. So....yikes.

Here’s my 2 cents worth on paint:

- if you’ve already filled the spirals and done your primer disregard. I use typical water-based latex wood filler, mostly because it’s cheap, plentiful and non-toxic - it seems that a number of HPR folks like auto body fillers (which I’ve tried, it works well). Rusto High Build Filler/Primer is my preferred primer, first coat sanded down then, if needed, a smooth second coat.

- if you’re going with a traditional yellow paint scheme absolutely do a white undercoat! Don’t depend on a light color primer coat due to the translucency of most spray can yellows.

- the undercoat can be flat, actually I’d recommend using flat for the undercoat, it goes on easier, dries faster and is easier to sand if needed.

- finally, if you’ve not done large-ish paint jobs with commercial rattle cans, there are three critical factors: 1. shake the can, 3 minutes minimum…then do it again! 2. pay strict attention to recoat times - follow the directions on the can and if you want to sand before the final topcoat use the “sniff” test, if you smell paint it isn’t cured and there’s a distinct chance it’ll wrinkle and you’re stuck sanding it all down and starting over. 3. you can do it all just right and it can still fail - all part of the fun! And a big reason lots of folks use airbrushes and HVLP spray guns

 

[SolarYellow]

Rustoleum Golden Sunset is a match for Monokote Cub Yellow. I find that to be a pleasing shade of yellow for the Goblin.

 

[Stargeezer]

I don't plan on following the traditional Goblin colors. I have an idea for a themed rocket. I'm more wondering what brand of primer is suggested and how many coats etc. I was going to bevel the fins also but now I'm not so sure, a little scared I'd compromise them.

I'm also wondering if it's suggested to use different primer on the plastic cone?

And now I'm curious about wood filler....that's just to make the spirals less visible?

 

[David Schwantz]

I would bevel fins. Looks cleaner. Get a 1" x 18" board and wrap a full sheet of paper around it. Lay the fin on the edge of build table and use table edge as a guide for sanding. Will make perfect straight, clean bevel. Just some elbow grease needed.
I use rusty filler primer for my LOC NC. I sand with 400 grit to scuff the surface, primer a couple coats, sand and repeat. Do this till smooth.
I use finishing putty to fill my spirals. It is 2 part and does NOT shrink as it dries. pretty easy to sand also.

 

[Hobie1dog]

I don't plan on following the traditional Goblin colors. I have an idea for a themed rocket. I'm more wondering what brand of primer is suggested and how many coats etc. I was going to bevel the fins also but now I'm not so sure, a little scared I'd compromise them.

I'm also wondering if it's suggested to use different primer on the plastic cone?

And now I'm curious about wood filler....that's just to make the spirals less visible?

I'm glad to hear you're going with non-traditional colors as I personally get tired of everybody showing up with the exact same rocket.
it's advisable to go out and buy a can of plastic adhesion promoter has that is what all of the paint manufacturers recommend to put down first and you spray the nose cone and most of the adhesion promoters say to just let it sit 10 to 15 minutes then spray your primer on top.
I've tried just about every one of the 10 to 15 or so of the wood fillers that's been mentioned on here but the best one that I found was the last one that was suggested and that was by an accomplished woodworker, so the product is named Timbermate and you can can add just water, from peanut butter down to a soup consistency. You can put it on with a small artist brush. Going around the spirals and then when you get done you can get a hard foam sanding block, put some 320 on it and Go around the tube with 320 in an arc pattern with your sanding block and it sands like baby powder.....highly recommended

 

[Wrightme43]

Yes sir, I used rustoleum paints and was consistently disappointed. I tried and tried, wrote rustoleum, tried again, and it was even when I got it right, still wasn't happy. A friend I met here recommended https://usa.specialistpaints.com/collections/kustom-canz-custom-aerosol-cans

I have been utterly and completely satisfied with this paint. The 2k clear is amazing. It has a hardener in a sealed portion of the can, you pull and twist it, and it mixes in. The coverage, and quality of the paint is outstanding.
It is actually much easier to use, and it turns out better.

These were all painted with thier paints. Except the blue and black which was the best I was ever able achieve with rustoleum.

 

[Wrightme43]

Oh and the one that is scratched up is due to a dog trying to retrieve my L1 flight like a duck!

 

[Stargeezer]

Should I be sanding the body as well? Or just the fins and nosecone?

Have Rustoleum fillable/sandable primer in gray. And multiple different sanding blocks.

 

[KenECoyote]

Should I be sanding the body as well? Or just the fins and nosecone?

Have Rustoleum fillable/sandable primer in gray. And multiple different sanding blocks.

I prime everything with Rusto filler/primer, then fill spirals, then sand everything (repeat prime, fill, sand if needed/wanted), then color goes on, but use same brand as primer (Rusto and Krylon can often react badly with each other).

 

[KenECoyote]

Yes sir, I used rustoleum paints and was consistently disappointed. I tried and tried, wrote rustoleum, tried again, and it was even when I got it right, still wasn't happy. A friend I met here recommended https://usa.specialistpaints.com/collections/kustom-canz-custom-aerosol-cans

I have been utterly and completely satisfied with this paint. The 2k clear is amazing. It has a hardener in a sealed portion of the can, you pull and twist it, and it mixes in. The coverage, and quality of the paint is outstanding.
It is actually much easier to use, and it turns out better.

These were all painted with thier paints. Except the blue and black which was the best I was ever able achieve with rustoleum.

"MIATINATOR"?

 

[Wrightme43]

Miah is awesome, she is also the most difficult one of my kids.
Sorta like a chainsaw, with dynamite, wrapped in cotton candy.

 

[KenECoyote]

Rustoleum is usually the most common available and reasonably priced paint for most and I've been using it since I got into rocketry since ~2014. However, it (along with Krylon) apparently has changed formulas through the years. It helps to research paint techniques and issues here if you haven't used it before.

Some samples of my rockets with Rusto gray Filler & Primer base and Rusto top coats (what I've been using for almost all my builds)...

Yellow top coat, black wings and midsection with custom decals:

Basically all masked Rusto paint except for small decals:

Gloss White Rusto (which imho can often remain sticky for a long time) along with Stickershock decals:

This was a special chrome paint "Spaz Stix" over Rusto black, which I first tested on scrap cardboard to make sure they work together:


I'm actually building a LOC 4" Goblin myself and may prime and fill it this weekend. I've already collected the paints...can you guess the scheme?

The Lowes one on the right is new to me and I'll have to test for compatibility... it was in a unique color that was not easily found for me.

Good luck and feel free to ask more questions...you'll likely find plenty of help here.

 

[Bruiser]

When I read your first post it sounded like the rocket is already built? I only ask because it is easier to fill spirals and sand the fins before everything is glued together. If it is already built it can still be done and won't be so bad on a larger airframe like you have.

I fill spirals with the tried and true Carpenter's Wood Filler. I usually do end up doing two applications because it does shrink. I'll apply it thinned with water, and sand after it has dried. I try to let is sit for a day (or longer) and then repeat the process.

For the fins I would round over the leading edges. That is what I did on my Goblin and do on most of my sport rockets. Round leading edges take paint better than sharp, square edges and are a bit more aerodynamic.

For paint I have been using Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer 2in1 Filler and Sandable. You can get this at automotive stores and in the automotive department at Walmart.

For color coats you could not give me a can of Rust-Oleum. They are just to un-predictable. I use to use them but no longer do. I use Krylon Acryli-Quik acrylic lacquer paint now. They are so much better than any enamel I have ever used. Coverage is good, dry time is consistent and fast, and they spray well. The only set back is it is hard to get (at least for me). Amazon is a source but kinda pricey. Grainger is better if you have one near you. There are other places online as well.

This is my cloned (using mostly Der Big Red Max parts) Goblin. Sorry if the yellow is offensive It's Acryli-Quik colors over the gray Rust-Oleum automotive primer. The yellow coverage was great!


Just my 2 pennies,
-Bob

Oh, and let me add the biggest tip to using spray can. Every time you go to paint with a spray can, spray a test shot on something else before you spray your rocket. That will let you know if the paint is good to go or not.

 

[KenECoyote]

Also, off topic but maybe someone can advise me on how to install the rail buttons? I can probably manage the FWD ring button......but to attatch the second to the MID ring I'm really not sure how far down to go and I admittedly forgot to measure everything before I jammed the motor can into the body. So....yikes.

You can take a straight dowel, very long ruler or anything "stick-y", insert it down the opening of the body tube until it hits the top most CR, mark the side of the rule/dowel where it meets the bt opening, then use that on the outside to find where the top of the top CR is, make a mark about between 1/8"-3/16" down (depends on if you did internal fillets, etc.), drill a small pilot hole (should hit wood and also see wood drill shavings), drill a bigger hole (but smaller than rail button screw), add a dab if 5 min epoxy to the hole, mount rail button. I've done this many times and never had a failure. Ymmv.

 

[tsmith1315]

This was a special chrome paint "Spaz Stix" over Rusto black, which I first tested on scrap cardboard to make sure they work together:

Looks great! Was that rattle can, airbrush, or?

 

[KenECoyote]

Looks great! Was that rattle can, airbrush, or?

Thanks! Everything above is rattle can (actually, same with all my rockets).
The Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome was made to be applied to the underside of lexan RC car bodies and then some other overcoat. Because of this, it usually does NOT do well as a regular top coat (fingerprint smudges, etc.) and also clear coating messes it up and takes away the chrome.
I've been experimenting with a very long slow higher temp bake, leaving it in a car in the sun for a couple of weeks, and this was the first test and it did very well. More testing when it gets warm again here in NY (or if I move to Florida).
Also this paint is pretty expensive.

 

[tsmith1315]

I've been experimenting with a very long slow higher temp bake, leaving it in a car in the sun for a couple of weeks, and this was the first test and it did very well

Cool, thanks for the details.

I see they recommend it under candy colors, I wonder if they mean candy directly over the chrome.

It sounds like it’s worth experimenting with!

 

[KenECoyote]

Cool, thanks for the details.

I see they recommend it under candy colors, I wonder if they mean candy directly over the chrome.

It sounds like it’s worth experimenting with!

Next test will be on a Radical Rocketry BT80 F104 Starfighter.

Edit add: To bring it back on track, I almost always assemble major parts and fillet first, prime, fill, sand, repeat as needed, top coat, clear coat...

Imho the CWF sticks better to a primed surface and the Filler Primer helps to partly fill the spirals.

 

[mcderek]

If you use rattle cans one of these paint can shakers is quite handy-





Sorry, I don't remember the brand and there isn't any label on the product.

 

[KenECoyote]

If you use rattle cans one of these paint can shakers is quite handy-





Sorry, I don't remember the brand and there isn't any label on the product.

Don't deprive me of the little exercise I get building rockets!

Just kidding and thanks for sharing... very cool!

 

[mcderek]

I found the source. It's the MixKwik Spray Can Shaker

MixKwik Spray Paint Shaker

 

[KenECoyote]

I don't plan on following the traditional Goblin colors. I have an idea for a themed rocket. I'm more wondering what brand of primer is suggested and how many coats etc. I was going to bevel the fins also but now I'm not so sure, a little scared I'd compromise them.

I'm also wondering if it's suggested to use different primer on the plastic cone?

And now I'm curious about wood filler....that's just to make the spirals less visible?

What's the theme?

Personally, I don't airfoil fins unless I worry about them tearing off on crazy boost motors or if I want a bit of extra altitude or speed.

I leave them flat if I don't care about those things and want the rocket to be slower and within sight. To each their own though and I feel you can "do-you" with this.

I launched my Mega Der Red Max a lot and had a lot of fun with it and it had very flat & fat leading edges.

 

[mcderek]

I hardly ever airfoil fins as well. A lower flight is fine with me. I enjoy seeing all the events.

 

[Stargeezer]

I'm glad to hear you're going with non-traditional colors as I personally get tired of everybody showing up with the exact same rocket.
it's advisable to go out and buy a can of plastic adhesion promoter has that is what all of the paint manufacturers recommend to put down first and you spray the nose cone and most of the adhesion promoters say to just let it sit 10 to 15 minutes then spray your primer on top.
I've tried just about every one of the 10 to 15 or so of the wood fillers that's been mentioned on here but the best one that I found was the last one that was suggested and that was by an accomplished woodworker, so the product is named Timbermate and you can can add just water, from peanut butter down to a soup consistency. You can put it on with a small artist brush. Going around the spirals and then when you get done you can get a hard foam sanding block, put some 320 on it and Go around the tube with 320 in an arc pattern with your sanding block and it sands like baby powder.....highly recommended

Would you mind showing me a picture of what the Timebermate wood filler product you mentioned looks like?

Also, if I'm going to be using Rusto's Fillable Primer, is wood filler really even necessary at that point?

 

[Stargeezer]

What's the theme?

Personally, I don't airfoil fins unless I worry about them tearing off on crazy boost motors or if I want a bit of extra altitude or speed.

I leave them flat if I don't care about those things and want the rocket to be slower and within sight. To each their own though and I feel you can "do-you" with this.

I launched my Mega Der Red Max a lot and had a lot of fun with it and it had very flat & fat leading edges.

Do you know of the videogame series "Fallout"? If not, you won't get the theme lol.

 

[sriegel]

Go totally off-theme? I used Rusto metallics and hammered metal over grey Rusto primer.