Launch Tower designs?

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dixontj93060

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I would like to build a launch tower for a few lug-less HPR designs (29mm to 4" diameters and up to say 84" in length). Ewallace had posted one a while back, but the photos are now expired. Does anyone have a few pics of one they consider a good design? (Simpler, Home Depot type materials are what I'm considering, not fancy welded, girder-type)
 
How about these? They were posted here some time back. Looks like a slick design. Gonna try to repro them over the winter.
 
How about these? They were posted here some time back. Looks like a slick design. Gonna try to repro them over the winter.

Tim, when you're successful, would you mind sharing?

I don't much care for the designs that require fiddling with wingnuts to try to get everything in proper alignment.

-Kevin
 
"When" I'm successful? You've got a lot of faith in my fabrication abilities Kevin! :p

Sure thing. Will probably be a few months however, as this is something that is not on the front burner for me right now.

Sure wish I knew who fabricated these little gems. They're neat!
 
Tim, when you're successful, would you mind sharing?

I don't much care for the designs that require fiddling with wingnuts to try to get everything in proper alignment.

-Kevin

Kevin,

I don't mind sharing, but I'm with you, I want something that is blatantly simple. Right now I'm thinking 4' sections of rebar pounded 18" in the ground and through an 18"x18" ceramic tile that has multiple hole patterns drilled for various body diameters and fin patterns. The ceramic tile acts as the blastplate and gives stability. Six to eight inches above ground level I'll have notches in the rebar and twist tie galvanized fencing wire around the 3 or 4 stake structure to give it another stability point and a place for the fins to rest. Then finally slide 2' long 1/2" PVC sections down over the rebar stakes which also come to rest on the wire and offer a glide point and ultimately a guide for the rocket body on its ascent.

The above seems extemely simple. Can you see any reasons (besides rocky soil) as to why it wouldn't work?

-Tim

P.S. Oh, sorry, wrong Tim.
 
The above seems extemely simple. Can you see any reasons (besides rocky soil) as to why it wouldn't work?

1) Rebar is bloody heavy
2) Tools to haul
3) Setup time
4) I'm lazy and would like something I can attach to a rail, stick a rocket in and voila! That's what I love about the design Tim posted pictures of.

P.S. Oh, sorry, wrong Tim.

No need to apologize -- you offered an intriguing idea that I think would work. It's just more on-field effort that I'd like to put forth.

-Kevin
 
1) Rebar is bloody heavy
2) Tools to haul
3) Setup time
4) I'm lazy and would like something I can attach to a rail, stick a rocket in and voila! That's what I love about the design Tim posted pictures of.

#1, Yes, maybe there is an alternative, but rebar is "substantial" and can be sunk into the ground very easily providing a strong foundation.
#2, Well, yes, one hammer.
#3, Yes, drop tile, hammer home three stakes, wrap wire, slide on PVC, maybe five minutes--probably more like three. On second thought, I actually think it is about on par with loosening and tipping a rail, lining up rail buttons (or equivalent), sliding on an assembly, setting rail upright and tightening down and adjusting spacing on the assembly.
#4, Can't comment on that.
 
Until I hear some first hand reviews of the magnet system, I am going to wait.

It does look like a cool idea.
 
tquigg (Tim), looks like he made the outer rings out of 10" diameter PVC pipe. Looks like each outer ring is about 2" in height (or width). The rail mounting PVC pipe looks to be about 2"-3" in diameter and about 2 ft long. This is based on the fact that the rocket appears to have it's diameter on it (24mm?). I did some searching and found that there is a seller, 'swamppgas' in MI, on Ebay that sells one foot long sections of 10" diameter PVC pipe for about $36 inc S&H. From that one foot section outer rings for three towers virtually identical to this one could be fabricated. The problem is finding two other fliers to share the 10" diameter PVC pipe.
 
Right now I'm thinking 4' sections of rebar pounded 18" in the ground and through an 18"x18" ceramic tile that has multiple hole patterns drilled for various body diameters and fin patterns. The ceramic tile acts as the blastplate and gives stability. Six to eight inches above ground level I'll have notches in the rebar and twist tie galvanized fencing wire around the 3 or 4 stake structure to give it another stability point and a place for the fins to rest. Then finally slide 2' long 1/2" PVC sections down over the rebar stakes which also come to rest on the wire and offer a glide point and ultimately a guide for the rocket body on its ascent.

Might work. I think it would depend greatly on the soil you have to work with.

I am concerned about the accuracy with which anyone could position and align the three pieces of rebar. (Actually, in my yard, you couldn't pound them in at all.) You're talking about having enough control over spacing between the rods to ensure the right sized center opening, and that will require placement of the third rod within, oh, maybe +/- 1/16th of an inch? Point is, driving rebar into the ground is more like blacksmithing than watchmaking.

Even if you can get the spacing correct at the base, you need to maintain pretty careful control of that spacing all the way up the length of the rods. Otherwise, if one side gets a wider gap between rods, your rockets will leave through that opening. So alignment gets pretty critical too.

The rebar itself will have to be pretty stout to provide sufficient rigidity. I don't think 1/2 or 5/8 is going to do (and rebar sizes that small can be easily bent and damaged while driving them into the ground). I would bet you will have to use 3/4 or even 1 inch stock.

If this is going to work at all, I expect you will have to rig some sort of tool to hold the rebar in position as you pound it in. It will have to be pretty durable if you use it to hold the rebar while you are hammering away. And if you're going to go to the trouble of designing and building a tool for positioning the rebar, why not just go ahead and build a proper tower in the first place.
 
Used to live in Plano, I know what you mean about the soil in Texas. Here in the Midwest flying from plowed fields conditions are much better.

Regarding spacing, the idea is to rely on the ceramic tile with holes drilled as the template. Pretty easy to design multiple 3 and 4 finned patterns for various body diameters once you back out the diameter of the rebar/PVC pipe assembly.

Regarding rigidity, we're only talking a 7 or 8 pound rocket... and of course the vertical thrust vector... we'll have to see? I've seen fencing made out of 1/2" rebar properly tied with galvanized fencing wire hold cattle in a field. Also metal tent pins are only 1/4" in diameter and they hammer into the ground without bending.

Might work. I think it would depend greatly on the soil you have to work with.

I am concerned about the accuracy with which anyone could position and align the three pieces of rebar. (Actually, in my yard, you couldn't pound them in at all.) You're talking about having enough control over spacing between the rods to ensure the right sized center opening, and that will require placement of the third rod within, oh, maybe +/- 1/16th of an inch? Point is, driving rebar into the ground is more like blacksmithing than watchmaking.

Even if you can get the spacing correct at the base, you need to maintain pretty careful control of that spacing all the way up the length of the rods. Otherwise, if one side gets a wider gap between rods, your rockets will leave through that opening. So alignment gets pretty critical too.

The rebar itself will have to be pretty stout to provide sufficient rigidity. I don't think 1/2 or 5/8 is going to do (and rebar sizes that small can be easily bent and damaged while driving them into the ground). I would bet you will have to use 3/4 or even 1 inch stock.

If this is going to work at all, I expect you will have to rig some sort of tool to hold the rebar in position as you pound it in. It will have to be pretty durable if you use it to hold the rebar while you are hammering away. And if you're going to go to the trouble of designing and building a tool for positioning the rebar, why not just go ahead and build a proper tower in the first place.
 
tquigg (Tim), looks like he made the outer rings out of 10" diameter PVC pipe. Looks like each outer ring is about 2" in height (or width). The rail mounting PVC pipe looks to be about 2"-3" in diameter and about 2 ft long. This is based on the fact that the rocket appears to have it's diameter on it (24mm?). I did some searching and found that there is a seller, 'swamppgas' in MI, on Ebay that sells one foot long sections of 10" diameter PVC pipe for about $36 inc S&H. From that one foot section outer rings for three towers virtually identical to this one could be fabricated. The problem is finding two other fliers to share the 10" diameter PVC pipe.

The pipe would be no problem, I can get scraps for free from the local neighborhood lumber yard.
 
Tim,

I am interested. You will be able to sell this item for sure. Nice design. If you decide not to produce them, I am interested in the design. How hard was it to make?
 
Must be some confusion. I just found these photos and am thinking about repro'ing it for my own use...not for sale. If I do repro one, I'll post it here in greater detail so others could build them themselves. :blush:
 
Well boys, I may be able to shed some light on this, since I was the one that used it!

I posted a large size pic this time to try to help you figure it out. [ just the towerpic]

It was purchased at a yard sale for 5 bucks by a friend of mine who let me borrow it.

With me in the pic for scale you can see it is quite small. There are 2 rail buttons on the tube so you just slide it on any pad/rail and your ready to go.
They were made 10-15 years ago, sold for around 150.00and the company no longer exists. It is completely self adjusting for any size rocket that will fit.

Just lift up on a the rails, they open up wider, set the rocket on the "spoon' which is also adjustable to slide/fit under the rocket & support it. Drop the rails down around the rocket and your done. So simple and fast a caveman can do it.

The rails are U channel as are the sections that connect them to the supports.
looked like brass "pins" were used to hold it all together and were peened over to prevent them from coming loose. There are small sections, same size as the rails, held to the ring with wing nuts. Then a smaller size U channel that fits inside these and the rail. All aluminum channel. The whole thing pivots freely and the weight & angle of the rail hold it in place. So ANY size will fit just by lifting or lowering the rails. No nut or adjustments to make.

Man.... if someone figures out how to build this please post a parts list and where to buy. I had to give it back. It IS the coolest thing since sliced bread.

100_4792.jpg
 
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How about these? They were posted here some time back. Looks like a slick design. Gonna try to repro them over the winter.

That's an old Versatower - John Pursley made them, I have one in my basement from about 20 years ago. It saw a lot of flights but with age the frame bent and the rails wouldn't line up - I re-enforced it with steel rails on the side and continued to use mine until it fell apart. Replaced it with a Medalist tower from Ed LaCroix which has also fallen apart with age, I may try to splice the two together to make one working tower
 
It is a very interesting design. CJ, Another Wildman product? If not, I would love to see the design also. If someone wants to share some 10 inch pipe, that might also be helpful because it is expensive.
 
It is a very interesting design. CJ, Another Wildman product? If not, I would love to see the design also. If someone wants to share some 10 inch pipe, that might also be helpful because it is expensive.

If you are talking about 10 or 20 foot long sections of 10" or 12" diameter pipe like are normally sold at plumbing supply houses and manufacturers then it is very expensive, especially since a tower like the one in the picture needs about 6 to 4 inches of the pipe. There is a seller on ebay that sells one foot long sections of schedule 40 (white) PVC pipe in various diameters from 6" all the way up to 24". https://business.shop.ebay.com/Pipe...=p3286.c0.m282&LH_SpecificSeller=1..swamppgas For a 10" or 12" diameter PVC pipe I think one could build two or three towers very similar to the one shown.
 
Well boys, I may be able to shed some light on this, since I was the one that used it!

I posted a large size pic this time to try to help you figure it out. [ just the towerpic]

It was purchased at a yard sale for 5 bucks by a friend of mine who let me borrow it.

With me in the pic for scale you can see it is quite small. There are 2 rail buttons on the tube so you just slide it on any pad/rail and your ready to go.
They were made 10-15 years ago, sold for around 150.00and the company no longer exists. It is completely self adjusting for any size rocket that will fit.

Just lift up on a the rails, they open up wider, set the rocket on the "spoon' which is also adjustable to slide/fit under the rocket & support it. Drop the rails down around the rocket and your done. So simple and fast a caveman can do it.

The rails are U channel as are the sections that connect them to the supports.
looked like brass "pins" were used to hold it all together and were peened over to prevent them from coming loose. There are small sections, same size as the rails, held to the ring with wing nuts. Then a smaller size U channel that fits inside these and the rail. All aluminum channel. The whole thing pivots freely and the weight & angle of the rail hold it in place. So ANY size will fit just by lifting or lowering the rails. No nut or adjustments to make.

Man.... if someone figures out how to build this please post a parts list and where to buy. I had to give it back. It IS the coolest thing since sliced bread.

Many thanks! This helps a great deal in my efforts to reproduce a couple of them for use by our club! When I get this all figured out, I'll post here for the benefit of everyone.
 
There's always the "cement in a 5 gallon bucket with poles" approach. It's heavy, and can be a pain to transport, but it's dead simple and it makes for really cool liftoff photos :D

IMG_9589.jpg
 
Here are some drawings I did last night. It is a larger variation of the Versatube. The 5/8"w c-channel is a tight fit in the 3/4"w channel. I bought 1/2"w c-channel for my soon to be built version. The 1/2"w channel may be too loose and I'll have to add some washers to make it a bit tighter. I also bought 8x 8' c-channels to use for my rails and stands instead of the 4' long sections depicted in the drawing. I plan to cut a foot long piece of 12" or 14" diameter PVC schedule 40 pipe into three pieces of four inch wide. Mine will have three PVC tubes and three sets of braces per pair of rails and stands.
 
There is a seller on ebay that sells one foot long sections of schedule 40 (white) PVC pipe in various diameters from 6" all the way up to 24".

Paying for shipping will be more than it costs to just go to the store and buy some.

When I needed a couple short lengths of very large PVC pipe, I went to a few construction sites and looked around until I found one where they were done with the plumbing rough-in (it's one of the very first steps, before they pour the concrete slab and start building). I introduced myself to the site foreman, explained that I was looking for a short scrap, offered to pay for it, and was handed a piece about 6 ft long....for free.
 
Wow!
Mine is pretty much the same as the versatower but started with 10" PVC pipe rings.
I have mine set up for either 3 or 4 fin models so I have 6 rails installed. as well as a drop down piston/deflector mount. and 3 adjustable legs.
hardest part is finding 1/2"x 3/8" or smaller alumiunm Channels for the rails these days:(

Comp Tower-n_Detail 13 pic pg_12-03 (Keep).jpg
 
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