Just what we need, another paint thread

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Screaminhelo

Shade Tree Rocket Surgeon
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I know that the vices and virtues of various paints are often debated here on the forums. At the risk of stirring dissension among the masses, I wanted to post an example of "what not to do" and how I did it.

First, the paints
IMG_0012.jpg

The primer is cheapo that I got somewhere, the ACE paint is fluorescent enamel, Krylon is what it is (more on that later). and the Rustoleum clear is, as you can see, a lacquer.

First comes the primer. Everything got an initial shot of primer, built up with mist coats until all was covered. As the mist coats began to build up, I was careful to be sure that I was not spraying over wet paint. A final wet coat was applied when all components were dry to the touch. This was allowed to cure over night and then smoothed with 250 grit. Next was a wet coat of primer, ensuring everything was covered. This was left to cure for two days then smoothed with 250 grit again.

Next comes the color.
Both the Green and black were built up using mist coats, initially very light and getting heavier as I went. Once everything was completely covered, I put on a wet coat. I let this dry until the wet look was gone and sprayed another wet coat. The green didn't provide an even color but that will work well when I get the Green Max decals on. These were left to dry until the next day.

Now for a note on the Krylon. In my haste to get this done and post this, I was spraying under less than ideal conditions. Temp was a bit cool and the humidity was high. The result was blush. I apologize for not getting a picture of this but it is easily described. It appears as a dull white film over the surface of the paint as it dries. It is very easy to polish out with 600 grit and a quick wet sanding but what is notable about it is what it reveals about the paint. Blush is common is lacquers that are applied in cool, wet conditions. Lesson here? Treat Krylon as a lacquer.

Now for the clear.
In general, wisdom says do not apply lacquer over enamel as it will dissolve the enamel and ruin the finish right? That is only partially true. Lacquer can dissolve enamel, but it can also dissolve lacquer. Regardless of what you are spraying over, let the bottom color fully cure before spraying the lacquer, build it up with mist coats that you allow to dry to the touch, and let it dry over night before spraying a wet coat.

My results?
IMG_0014.jpg

My painting experience with enamels and acrylics comes from 30 years of scale modeling. My experience with lacquers is from touch-up painting on private airplanes. Acrylics weren't included here because the water based acrylics commonly used in the hobby industry can be applied over or under almost anything easily available to most hobbyists.

Again, my intent is not to say one type of paint is better than another. My goal is to show that you can do it wrong (mix paint lines and mediums) and still get good results if you apply the right techniques and exercise patience.
 
Nice, informative post. Thanks for posting it.

I'd like to add one cautionary note about blush: just as you say, anytime you spray in relatively high humidity, blush can occur. And I agree that wetsanding / polishing can often cure it. An exception is when it happens with clear coats applied in multiple layers. I've had blush get trapped in the layers and not come out with polishing or whatnot.

Also, for those considering first time use of fluorescent paints, I've found that the common fluorescent spray paints (mostly Rustoleum, in my case) don't act like traditional enamels or lacquers... they act almost like a dye more than anything. They go on thin and transparent. A solid white coat underneath is critical to get good "pop" out of them.

Beautiful green and black bird. Post a pic once the decals are on!

Marc
 
Thanks for the addition on clear coating over blush. The flip side of this is the effect that it can provide to the hobbyist. If you are looking for a weather beaten look, lacquer blush gives you just that color effect without additional steps.

Fluorescent colors are very much affected by the color under them. I used the gray primer in this case to tone down the pop and get the alien green that I was going for. If you are painting fluorescent colors, think of them like candy colors. Play with under colors and see how you can vary the tone to get just the color you were looking for.
 
Funny you guys should mention fluorescents. Here is an example of some imperfections in the base coat that you were talking about. I may just leave it to remind me for the next one.

DSC01663.jpg
 
I like to pass along basic, but disastrous mistakes I've made in the past, so some other poor builder doesn't have to go through hours of repainting/sanding. I use the Rustoleum spray bombs because they are cheap, dry to a super glossy finish (at least from the spectator area at launches) and I consider rockets as expendable given enough launches. SO, I painted a 7.5" with primer, then bright yellow. The finish was awesome and I was thrilled. I then went to put one last coat to cover it evenly and the entire rocket was a huge case of extreme wrinkle finish. I couldn't believe it as I sat there and watched it turn before my eyes. I immediately came here asked the question, "why" and got an quick reply....when applying more coats either do it within 30 minutes of the previous coat, or wait 48 hours. YES, that information was right in the instructions on the can, as the person pointed out. SO, for anyone who hasn't had this happen, you certainly want to consider it.
 
What about clear coating to protect decals? Should you wait 48 hours after the waterside decals are on? Do you do the clear coat in multiple light coats or one wet one? I am assuming that sanding after decal placement is a no no.
 
Tom, I honestly don't know. My new procedure is to find an old piece of body tube or whatever surface the decal will be applied to, and run a test on the sample. I do that when testing adhesives, paint etc..
 
What about clear coating to protect decals? Should you wait 48 hours after the waterside decals are on? Do you do the clear coat in multiple light coats or one wet one? I am assuming that sanding after decal placement is a no no.

Clear coating to protect decals is a good idea. The safest way to do it is to use Future floor polish (I think it is Pledge with Future Shine now). It can be brushed or airbrushed (no thinning required) over decals and any finish. If you want to use a buzz bomb, stick to an enamel clear. In both cases, start with a thin coat (mist for spraying) and build up in multiple coats. When using a buzz bomb, I wait for the wet shine go away and mist again. I usually wait about 5 min or so before the final wet coat.

You can wet sand the clear coat with fine grit (400 or higher) but you can get through to the decals if you over do it. If you are mindful of what you are doing, you can polish the clear to a high shine after decals and clear coat, just allow for the polishing process when you clear coat.
 
Clear coating to protect decals is a good idea. The safest way to do it is to use Future floor polish (I think it is Pledge with Future Shine now). It can be brushed or airbrushed (no thinning required) over decals and any finish. If you want to use a buzz bomb, stick to an enamel clear. In both cases, start with a thin coat (mist for spraying) and build up in multiple coats. When using a buzz bomb, I wait for the wet shine go away and mist again. I usually wait about 5 min or so before the final wet coat.

You can wet sand the clear coat with fine grit (400 or higher) but you can get through to the decals if you over do it. If you are mindful of what you are doing, you can polish the clear to a high shine after decals and clear coat, just allow for the polishing process when you clear coat.
That's helpful. THANX!

When is clear coating better than Future and vice versa?
 
My problem is building up color layers via misting never works. You never build up a smooth finish. Just a micro-fine rough one. It never becomes gloss smooth. :confused2:
 
That's helpful. THANX!

When is clear coating better than Future and vice versa?

Future or enamel is my preference over decals because if lacquer attacks the decals they are beyond repair. That's not to say that lacquer can't be used directly over decals but it is best, in my opinion, to build it up in light mist coats so that it dries quickly. Once you have good coverage with the mist coats, spray a thin wet coat, let dry and decide if you need more.

My problem is building up color layers via misting never works. You never build up a smooth finish. Just a micro-fine rough one. It never becomes gloss smooth. :confused2:

Just building color with misting will leave a rough finish. Mist until you have good coverage ( we are just looking for a barrier from solvents here) After your mist coats have dried a few minutes, follow with a wet coat. It is up to you whether to go with two thin or one heavy coat.

The real key to painting success is to try things out and see what worked and what didn't. If something works, do it again; if it doesn't, ask a question. I screwed up quite a few model airplanes with misguided paint jobs but some of these were turned into paint mules that I could try new things on. The only hard and fast rule that I follow is to wait at least 24 hrs when switching from one type of paint to another. Thinner coats or an airbrush can reduce this time some.

Hope this clears up some of the confusion.
 
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