Jayhawk paint question

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MoeFaux

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2021
Messages
21
Reaction score
8
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
I just started building the Jayhawk AQM-37A kit from Madcow. My plan is to make it look just like the OEM photos to preserve the scale military rocket aesthetic, but I can't wrap my brain around this part:

jayhawkfeature__32245.jpg

How do I preserve that black paint line that goes right under the canards?? My best idea is to paint the nose cone before installing the canards, which means I can't have any fillets on the canards themselves. It would also mean I have to be absurdly careful when gluing, sanding, and painting the canards while they're butted up against finished paint.

Surely, you all have some tips and tricks to share. . .
 
For all my Jayhawks (except the Starlight on the right),
I glued and filleted the canards before painting.
Shot the orange basecoat and let it dry.
Then masked the canards, going down the centerline of the fillets.
(So it helps to have smooth uniform fillets).
Then masked the nose cone and shot the black.
1693491581414.png
Madcow, Madcow mini, Rocketarium, Starlight.
 
I would finish and paint both the nosecone and nose fins before attaching them. I don't think you need fillets on those fins anyways, and it shouldn't be too difficult to glue them on without making a mess if you're careful with the process.
Or, the other option is just lots of masking tape...
 
I would finish and paint both the nosecone and nose fins before attaching them. I don't think you need fillets on those fins anyways, and it shouldn't be too difficult to glue them on without making a mess if you're careful with the process.
Or, the other option is just lots of masking tape...
Not really possible to finish the canards before attaching, since they glue to two dowels that poke through the nosecone, meaning there's filling and sanding to be done AFTER they attach.

I'm trying to get around the "just mask and paint after attaching" approach, since my performance tends to be a bit lackluster when taping around fillets and/or fine details. Maybe, though, this is just going to have to be a learning experience and an exercise in patience.

. . . but that sounds gross, and I don't wanna do it.🤢🤮
 
For all my Jayhawks (except the Starlight on the right),
I glued and filleted the canards before painting.
Shot the orange basecoat and let it dry.
Then masked the canards, going down the centerline of the fillets.
(So it helps to have smooth uniform fillets).
Then masked the nose cone and shot the black.
View attachment 601215
Madcow, Madcow mini, Rocketarium, Starlight.
Very nice fleet! I'm building the MadCow kits right now. It looks like you added motor retention rings to them? If so how much did that change the required nose weight if at all? Last question, what color of orange paint are you using? Estes Pro Series Jayhawk calls for a Krylon Mandarin Orange but I don't think that color is made any more. Very soon I'll have 6 Jayhawks to paint and I really like that color of orange you used. Thanks in advance for any info you can give me. Andy
 
For all my Jayhawks (except the Starlight on the right),
I glued and filleted the canards before painting.
Shot the orange basecoat and let it dry.
Then masked the canards, going down the centerline of the fillets.
(So it helps to have smooth uniform fillets).
Then masked the nose cone and shot the black.
View attachment 601215
Madcow, Madcow mini, Rocketarium, Starlight.
You need a Semroc MMX go with your set. :)
 
It looks like you added motor retention rings to them? If so how much did that change the required nose weight if at all?
Added the Estes plastic motor retainers except for the Starlight model which came with an engine hook.
No extra nose weight added.
The big Madcow flew last December on a CTI F50SK-6.
Great flight.
Had a chute separation due to a weak swivel but no damage.

what color of orange paint are you using
It's been a few years, but I THINK it was Rusto Satin Fire Orange, which is hard to get right now.
Except for the Madcow mini which was a Krylon Pumpkin Orange.
But my memory may be sketchy.

You need a Semroc MMX go with your set. :)
Got it covered. Also an ASP Micro Jayhawk.
;)
 
I just started building the Jayhawk AQM-37A kit from Madcow. My plan is to make it look just like the OEM photos to preserve the scale military rocket aesthetic, but I can't wrap my brain around this part:

View attachment 601213

How do I preserve that black paint line that goes right under the canards?? My best idea is to paint the nose cone before installing the canards, which means I can't have any fillets on the canards themselves. It would also mean I have to be absurdly careful when gluing, sanding, and painting the canards while they're butted up against finished paint.

Surely, you all have some tips and tricks to share. . .
Late to the party here, but have you tried liquid paint mask?
 
Added the Estes plastic motor retainers except for the Starlight model which came with an engine hook.
No extra nose weight added.
The big Madcow flew last December on a CTI F50SK-6.
Great flight.
Had a chute separation due to a weak swivel but no damage.


It's been a few years, but I THINK it was Rusto Satin Fire Orange, which is hard to get right now.
Except for the Madcow mini which was a Krylon Pumpkin Orange.
But my memory may be sketchy.


Got it covered. Also an ASP Micro Jayhawk.
;)
Man, you should live here! That's all the stores have is Rustoleum Satin Fire Orange, no kidding! That and Chevrolet Orange. Did you shoot a gloss coat over the satinn Fire Orange? Those are some beautiful Jayhawks! I have a scratchbuilt 13mm and 18mm, Rocketarium 24MM and Estes Pro Series, and the big and small Madcows. I recently went to the USAF Museum and saw an XAQM-81A 'Firebolt', a prototype of an improved Jayhawk with a better engine. I guess it was never adopted due to cost. A little bit different, but it would be an easy scratch build.
 

Attachments

  • 20240301_104223.jpg
    20240301_104223.jpg
    6.4 MB · Views: 0
  • 20240301_104239.jpg
    20240301_104239.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • 20240301_104250.jpg
    20240301_104250.jpg
    4 MB · Views: 0
  • 20240301_104344.jpg
    20240301_104344.jpg
    5.8 MB · Views: 0
  • 20240301_104538.jpg
    20240301_104538.jpg
    4.5 MB · Views: 0
Notice the boat tail is very short and steep, like the big MadCow. Delta canards, and on this one the winglets are squared off in the back instead of cut forward like the Jayhawk's. Have to figure out how to make the engine air intake.
 
I recently went to the USAF Museum and saw an XAQM-81A 'Firebolt', a prototype of an improved Jayhawk with a better engine. I guess it was never adopted due to cost. A little bit different, but it would be an easy scratch build.
Firebolt never went into production. It was derived from the results of the Sandpiper program.
Here's a pic for your edification:
1711485813313.png
Estes had a model of the Sandpiper, a Jayhawk variant.
Many, many moons ago.
:D
Have to figure out how to make the engine air intake.
You can do it like the older Rocketarium kit: cut a tube with an angle to conform with the boat tail.
Glue the launch lug inside.
I think the newer Rocketarium Jayhawk uses 3D printed parts for that.
 
Firebolt never went into production. It was derived from the results of the Sandpiper program.
Here's a pic for your edification:
View attachment 637281
Estes had a model of the Sandpiper, a Jayhawk variant.
Many, many moons ago.
:D

You can do it like the older Rocketarium kit: cut a tube with an angle to conform with the boat tail.
Glue the launch lug inside.
I think the newer Rocketarium Jayhawk uses 3D printed parts for that.
Yes, it uses 3D printed boat tail, the front of the conduit, antennas, pitot tube and nose cone canards. I have both new and old Rocketarium. The new one is in my opinion the most scale Jayhawk kit out there
 
Thank you for the picture, haven't seen that one. Finding any pictures of the Firebolt isn't easy.
 
Back
Top