I started making parachutes because I was curious. In the 10 years I've been doing it - I've learned a few tricks. A hot knife is a must. It cuts and seals, and you can baste the pieces together to sew them correctly. You don't need to use super duper kevlar sewing thread. If you are burning your thread with your ejection charges, I'm guessing the nylon that it is holding together it toast. Regular nylon thread is plenty, at 8 stitches per inch. I use a rolled hem foot to put the panels of my parachutes together. This turns the edge in and forms a nice seam. It takes a single pass - if you use a flat felled foot you have two passes. I've never had a seam fail on a parachute. I've found the limit of the fabric first. For finishing the bottom edges i use a ripstop binding tape. I use a foot that takes a 2" wide strip and folds it twice so it ends up 1/2" wide and encases the raw edge of the bottom. I like the clean look and that I can add a contrasting color. For shroud lines I used to use grommets, but have since sewn in the shroud lines. I've never had one fail and they have been tested to 25 pounds a line, 3:1 safety factor. They ripped out of the ripstop nylon, the line didn't break first. The line broke at 125 pounds. I've sewn every type of parachute, flat circle, hemispherical, ellipsoidal, x-form, parabolic, toroidal, tri-conical, rotofoil, band-gap-disc. If I'm sewing multiple gores, I sew a toroidal to make the most of my parachute for the work I'm putting in. I've sewn flat circles to make them easier to pack (less seam volume) for some applications. 90% of the parachutes I use 1.5-1.7oz ripstop on. It is easier to sew and I fly sport mostly and have a cavernous amount of room to pack them into. When I do need to make a volume constrained parachute I use 1.1 oz calendared ripstop. It is a pain to sew - very slippery and takes me more time. I generally use a fusible web to sew them and then tear that off after the fact.
For patterns I generally derive them from the shape I'm wanting, then I convert that to AutoCAD. I plot that, attach to 1/8" masonite and then cut that out for my pattern. I then can use that pattern to cut gores out easily and consistent. Using AutoCAD and Excel I generally optimize my parachutes for the fabric that I'm using. I prefer to use 66" or 72" wide fabric because your efficiency goes up a lot.
Edward