Finished Air Brake recovery , hopefully made practical

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BABAR

Builds Rockets for NASA
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okay, again I guess I better start re-establishing my credibility and actually build something.

I Found one of my old Air Brakers, and want to redo it to make it practical.

playing around with trying to make this easier and more consistent.

also trying to see if I can get two rockets out of one 4x36x1/8” balsa sheet. Although now I am starting to wonder if that is enough.

here is the orginal.
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Here are the measurements.

main pieces are 1/8” balsa, which is getting a bit pricey and hard to find in the 36” sheets.

I had planned to use additional 1/32” basswood for some backings, with crosswise grain directions (but all they had at store was 1/32 plywood). I also use 1/16” balsa core between the blade stops to provide space and strength for the rubber bands.image.jpg
 
Parts. I have already glued the 1/16” between the 1/32” plates on the blade stops/band displacers.

The fins are rounded on all except root edges. The blade stops are also rounded.

the plates on the front provide backing for the rotor stops.

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okay, again I guess I better start re-establishing my credibility and actually build something.

I Found one of my old Air Brakers, and want to redo it to make it practical.

playing around with trying to make this easier and more consistent.

also trying to see if I can get two rockets out of one 4x36x1/8” balsa sheet. Although now I am starting to wonder if that is enough.

here is the orginal.
View attachment 608925View attachment 608926
Excellent! I recall seeing one of these Air Brakers in exciting action, and it seemed suitable for a small field. Questions: How high do you think it might go, and have you found a small field in your immediate area?
 
Excellent! I recall seeing one of these Air Brakers in exciting action, and it seemed suitable for a small field. Questions: How high do you think it might go, and have you found a small field in your immediate area?
Welllllllll, I think once built is gonna need a swing test, because of my cheapness this may be shorter than usual. If it IS stable, I think maybe 100 feet with an A, maybe 500 with a C.

they should be pretty light weight.

negative on local field. I may mail these to @Ronz Rocketz and @kuririn and see if they will test fly them.
 
I don't follow how this works. Would you show it fully deployed, please?
Lol, your uncertainty is well founded.

It is not completed, so doesn’t make sense yet.

The notch will hold the brake stop (would be a “rotor stop” if this was a helicopter.). The brake stop also doubles as a band displacer.

This is a standard “double tape hinge” which I learned/stole from QCR (Qualified Competition Rocketry, IIRC, great company, good rockets , crappy instructions) , been out of business a while.

My problem with standar single and double tape hinges Is they come loose pretty quickly. This is where the sewing does the trick.

I have also learned that if the far lateral edges of the tape hinge are “hell for stout”, as @lakeroadster likes to say, the mid portion of the hinge is superfluous. Sewing floss into the hinges provides tremendous strength (essentially the balsa will fail/break before the hinge does.). So I am starting to move toward just using the edges, rather than a complete contiguous hinge.

I need a gap for the brake stop anyway.

The needle pokes 5 holes, I will use these to sew in the hinge. I find it easier to prepoke the holes.

Nice trick is the almond can with the plastic lid. I put the balsa on the lid and I can poke the needle through the balsa and follow through into the lid and can. Makes it easy to push needle almost all the way through with pliers, without poking myself.

Next round except for the brake stops, this will be all balsa. I had an epiphany of how to “jigsaw puzzle” the pieces for an easier build and more secure and easy rigging for flight.

The brake stops still need either 1/32 basswood or plywood, with a built “ply” with 1/16 balsa (or could used the basswood or plywood, just need a change of grain orientation for basswood). I am finding both cutting and hole poking much tougher with plywood or basswood. A drill is a bit of a hassle for these small parts. Maybe if I had a drill press, but I am an indoor spare bedroom builder. SWMBO grants me more than enough leash anyway!
 
Oh, well, that clears everything up. I look forward to more pictures.
Nice trick is the almond can with the plastic lid. I put the balsa on the lid and I can poke the needle through the balsa and follow through into the lid and can. Makes it easy to push needle almost all the way through with pliers, without poking myself.
Rather than grip the needle with pliers, you can push it right trough if you wear a little piece of armor on your finger tip. There's a device for that called a "thimble".
I am finding both cutting and hole poking much tougher with plywood or basswood. A drill is a bit of a hassle for these small parts. Maybe if I had a drill press, but I am an indoor spare bedroom builder.
They are pretty small holes, so a pin vise should help. (I am not endorsing this brand or this seller.) You can "center punch" the wood with the point of a nail to help get the drill started without walking.
1697144998797.png
 
Here are the measurements.

main pieces are 1/8” balsa, which is getting a bit pricey and hard to find in the 36” sheets.

I had planned to use additional 1/32” basswood for some backings, with crosswise grain directions (but all they had at store was 1/32 plywood). I also use 1/16” balsa core between the blade stops to provide space and strength for the rubber bands.View attachment 608927
Good to see you're embracing mixed units of measurement... :) :)
 
Okay Joe

Hopefully this will help.

Sewn in with floss. Only rule is that going through the central crease MUST be from inside to outside. Otherwise while I intend to be consistent it ends up a bit random.

I’m not ready to glue in the blade stop, but i temporarily tucked it in the slot to show how it works.

Once tied in, I wick thin CA to seal it.

I can trim off the excess tape if I was really concerned about weight.

Make sense?


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Yes, I now get the hinges. I still look forward seeing it all come together: launch configuration, release and deployment, descent configuration. I will wait patiently for more build process pictures.
 
Oh, well, that clears everything up. I look forward to more pictures.

Rather than grip the needle with pliers, you can push it right trough if you wear a little piece of armor on your finger tip. There's a device for that called a "thimble".

They are pretty small holes, so a pin vise should help. (I am not endorsing this brand or this seller.) You can "center punch" the wood with the point of a nail to help get the drill started without walking.
View attachment 609178

VERY strongly considered this. However, I need to pierce both wood and DUCT TAPE.

I have found drills really tend to wrap up rather than penetrate tape.

Even with needles, the adhesive tends to hang up and I need to wipe off the needle regularly.

As for thimbles, sewing through wood works great but takes a LOT of force. I Can’t get the leverage with a thimble.
 
Okay, maybe 5 is a charm. Still a bunch of brain foofs.

Gonna try to detail this one . I think I am surprised I keep learning how to make things better
 
Put tape on your cutting mat (could also use glass, wax paper.

Cut 3/8 inch x 2 inch strips.

Leave them till you need ‘em.

Flip the brakes (rotors of you use this for heli) outside face UP

Put first strip on hub.

Attach it on the brake

Second strip. Both strips on the OUTSIDE are on the peripheral right and left margins. One of these tapes will NOT match up by the inside pieces

Flip the brake so inside is up.

Fold in half. You can barely see the previous OUTSIDE tape pieces inside the “sandwich”

Keep the hinge folded and tightly “pinched”

Match up the outside tape with outside strip #3

Last #4 strip lines up with the edge of the INSIDE plate. So this does NOT line up with outside tape.
 

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Sewing

Really like using the stubby cans with plastic covers to push the needle through. The almonds ain’t bad either.
 

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Well shoot, some pics went into wrong post. Deleted them before I realized the didn’t get into FIRST post.
 
Placement of outside holes near plate inside.
 

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Inside “edge” holes. These are critical, the are closer than I’d like to the adjacent holes, but will allow a “wrap around” for the outside edge that accounts for the “indentation” on the edge. You can see the two holes previously made.

Btw, the reason for this indentation will become evident later.
 

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Holes for the non indented side are pretty straightforward
 

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Sewing

Start with 18 inch piece of floss. I like floss for strength and because it kinda lays flat AND because you can lock it with thin CA (can’t do that with Kevlar thread.)

Tape the tail end to the inside forward edge of hub.

The main rule still is all pokes through the hinge MUST be inside to outside.

Another rule is that all inside threads on the indentation can’t “cross” the plate edge.

You will see an outside wrap on the “strong” (non indented) side . Secures the tape at the edge. Not essential, but in my opinion very helpful.

Crossing middle in back. Tinted floss blackimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Outside DIAGONAL wrap for indented edge. Thread tinted black. Goes to the LATERAL hole. This followed by OUTSIDE WRAP tinted red
 
If anyone tries this for a competition helicopter or glider, you can trim off excess tape
 

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This Bud’s for you @jqavins

The motor in the front is just for temporary spacing.

The rear end shows the “flange” which “tucks” the brakes in place.
 

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This is the first time I’ve used the flange, and I don’t think I’ll do it again. Even if it’s only 1/32”, it breaks up the aerodynamics.

I meant to bevel them, but forgot. Could probably do wood filler, or even fillet it.
 
Aaaaaaargh!!!!!

One of these is NOT like the others, and THAT is my first one that I did WRONG

Notches should all be facing the tail.image.jpg

Well, I need to cut the notches out ANYWAY, so time for some surgery, since I have learned there are no practical ways to unglue a flat big joint like this.
 
Pics out of order

2. Resect

3. Trim

1 Replaceimage.jpg
 

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