Eggtimer Quark - A $20 Simple Dual Deployment Controller

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I just built my Quark today. The only issue I had, was my own fault. My soldering skillz were pretty rusty, plus, I was learning a new iron as well. Got it finished, and, no joy. Started inspecting, and, apparently, I cooked the very first capacitor I put on. Luckily, Chris includes a few extra parts, which included the cap I needed. I replaced it, and, everything works just fine. Tested both channels multiple times with no issues at all.

Riley, where did you get your terminal strips at? I'd built mine with everything top mount, and, would like to have top mount strips as well. Any modifications needed for them to fit?
 
I just built my Quark today. The only issue I had, was my own fault. My soldering skillz were pretty rusty, plus, I was learning a new iron as well. Got it finished, and, no joy. Started inspecting, and, apparently, I cooked the very first capacitor I put on. Luckily, Chris includes a few extra parts, which included the cap I needed. I replaced it, and, everything works just fine. Tested both channels multiple times with no issues at all.

Riley, where did you get your terminal strips at? I'd built mine with everything top mount, and, would like to have top mount strips as well. Any modifications needed for them to fit?

ebay is where I got mine. Yeah you gotta wait awhile but you could ask Cris if he has some he can sell if you're in a hurry. Do a search for terminal block 2 pole 3.81mm pitch. Kurt Savegnago
 
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Actually, I do sell them, as 4-pin blocks. It's the same one used by the TRS, they're $1.50 each... I'll put them up on the web site the next time I publish it. I have some content on hold right now, so I can't publish right now.
 
Actually, I do sell them, as 4-pin blocks. It's the same one used by the TRS, they're $1.50 each... I'll put them up on the web site the next time I publish it. I have some content on hold right now, so I can't publish right now.

THANK YOU. I've probably spent 2 hours searching for the right one (figured out the pitch on my own) and pretty much gave up on finding it shipped in less than 30 days. Was actually just looking again just now.

Can we add to our order if ordering something else soon off the website?
 
Riley, where did you get your terminal strips at? I'd built mine with everything top mount, and, would like to have top mount strips as well. Any modifications needed for them to fit?
I got them from digikey PN:A97978-ND. I did have to file a small notch in the back to make room for the transistors. the ones Chirs has may be a better fit, not sure.

BTW I had a great flight on my Quark in my Darkstar Mini. First DD flight with that rocket and it was flawless. just shy of 2k feet on a G64.
 
Thank you for the PN Riley. I had already placed an order from Digikey by the time you replied. I ordered PN: 609-3920-ND. They almost fit with no modification. I hit the area next to the transistors a couple of times with a Dremel medium grit sanding disc, and, they fit with just enough gap to slide a piece of paper in.

IMAG0386.jpg
 
That's okay Kurt, paybacks are fun too!:tongue:

Nows when I get to have some fun Kurt :neener::tongue:

Just finished assembly and testing of my first Eggtimer product: the Quark. As someone who has never done any SMT component soldering it was definitely worth it to watch a couple of videos on YouTube about soldering electronics. The very first piece mounted on the Quarks board is a 14 pin IC Processor. The kit contains everything you need to assemble the stock unit (except tools of course), the only addition I made was the terminal block for the ejection igniter connections the terminal block is available from Eggfinder you just have to add it to the order.

Not only does EggFinder have an excellent Assembly Guide available for download, they also have a pictoral assembly guide on the Eggtimer Rocketry website. As this was my first one to assemble ever it took me about 3 to 4 hours to complete the unit and test it. Eggfinder includes extras of all the little tiny parts (1 extra of each part), of course the larger easier to manage parts there is only the required number. The board is well marked as to where all the parts go, each set of solder pads has a number next to it indicating what part attaches to that pad, and there are also pictographic representations of the larger parts on the board so its easy to tell which end is which.

My tools were a cheap Radio Shack 15 watt soldering iron 64-2051B, a pair of curved tweezers, sidecutters, a pair of sprue cutters, a 10x Jewelers Loupe (I actually have had it for years) and it is a must for inspecting the solder joints to check for bridging and or incomplete joints. Eggtimer provides the proper solder, about 12" of which I used about 2".

Tools I wish I had: a free standing magnifier since my eyes are pretty good, but darn those SMT resistors and capacitors are tiny.

Testing: The initial test is nothing more than connecting a battery and listening for the beeps, all went well. My next test was the addition of Christmas light bulbs to the drogue and main channels and putting the whole unit inside the marinating bowl for our FoodSaver, waiting for the unit to chirp/warble its ready, then hit the vacuum button and wait for the pretty lights. For some reason the Foodsaver only pulled enough vacuum to get 393' on the first test but the Quark went ahead and fired both channels. The second test went to just over 10k equivalent pressure and the apogee fired then at 500' the main fired. Now the only thing left to do is build the rockets it goes in and fly it since the unit appears to be functional.

Modes: the Quark can be set for Apogee or Apogee +1 by a jumper, then either 300' or 500' main, a third jumper can add either 300' or 500' more to the main deployment giving the option of a main at 300, 500, 800, or 1000 feet.
 
Plus Rich,

One can do a jumper dance and test fire the channels for a ground test. The truly paranoid will like that to see if their arrangement can fire their particular matches.:grin:

Kurt Savegnago
 
Plus Rich,

One can do a jumper dance and test fire the channels for a ground test. The truly paranoid will like that to see if their arrangement can fire their particular matches.:grin:

Kurt Savegnago

I did the jumper dance to test fire my Amazon ematches with a 2S-180 mah Lipo & everything worked as expected.
 
Just assembled one today and despite having assembled the Eggfinder system last year (and enjoying the build), this one didn't seem much easier to me...maybe my eyes are getting older. However there's something to be said for how great it feels when you first test it and it works - Hallelujah!

Also I apparently have "variant" packaging on each my 3 Quarks. :)
2016-07-04%2016.08.55.jpg
 
Just assembled one today and despite having assembled the Eggfinder system last year (and enjoying the build), this one didn't seem much easier to me...maybe my eyes are getting older. However there's something to be said for how great it feels when you first test it and it works - Hallelujah!

Also I apparently have "variant" packaging on each my 3 Quarks. :)

Ahhhhhhhhh Ken, you need higher magnification or have cataracts starting! :facepalm: Also be sure you glance/read the instructions each time you build so you don't do stupid mistakes you failed to do the first time you built one!:shock: Don't ask, stupidhead here has done it with .1uf and 10uf capacitors.:bangpan: Kurt
 
Ahhhhhhhhh Ken, you need higher magnification or have cataracts starting! :facepalm: Also be sure you glance/read the instructions each time you build so you don't do stupid mistakes you failed to do the first time you built one!:shock: Don't ask, stupidhead here has done it with .1uf and 10uf capacitors.:bangpan: Kurt

Actually I've got a 4-0 record so far on the Eggtimer builds (with the first being the Eggfinder TX...talk about starting big) and I do read the instructions and look at the pics. :grin:

However I won't say I didn't have to use the desoldering tool. :wink:
 
...done it with .1uf and 10uf capacitors.:bangpan: Kurt

BTW - It may be helpful to others to note that while both those "brown unmarked parts*" are similar, one (10uf) is larger and the pads for that one are also larger. :)

*Note: One is actually listed with a description of "small brown unmarked parts" while the other is described as "brown, unmarked". :smile:
 
BTW - It may be helpful to others to note that while both those "brown unmarked parts*" are similar, one (10uf) is larger and the pads for that one are also larger. :)

*Note: One is actually listed with a description of "small brown unmarked parts" while the other is described as "brown, unmarked". :smile:

Just an update that I assembled the WiFi switch today and while it also had .1uf and 10uf capacitors, both were the same size in that one. :confused: I then compared the parts lists and the Quarks I have use ".1uf 0805-sized capacitors" while the WiFi Switch uses ".1uf 1206" capacitors ("1206" being the same size as the 10uf capacitors). So this earlier observation may not always be the case, so again it is wise to follow the instructions carefully. :)
 
I built two Quarks a while back but have only ever flown one. I've installed the second one into a rocket I'm prepping and went through the beep tests, only this time I noticed that with a single ematch connected at a time the "no continuity" beeps are opposite of what the manual says they ought to be. From the manual:

"The beeps are:
4 Beeps – No Main Channel continuity
5 Beeps – No Drogue Channel continuity"

If I plug a match into the drogue channel I get five beeps, and four if just a match in the main. Both altimeters behave the same, and since one has flown without giving me a main at apogee I have to imagine this is a typo. But since I built the second altimeter with the terminal block on the opposite side of the board I just want to check here to make sure I'm not crazy and this is actually a typo.
 
The 10 uF caps ARE a bit larger than the .1 uF caps, at least in the Quark. You can tell the 10 uF caps because they're in a clear plastic carrier... the .1 uF caps are in a paper carrier.

Two of Ken's Quark kits must have been from late last year, when I ran out of the pink baggies... I was scrounging around for anything anti-static that I could use while I waited for my shipment. You have no idea how easy it is to miss something like this when you're focused on the electronic parts...
 
I built two Quarks a while back but have only ever flown one. I've installed the second one into a rocket I'm prepping and went through the beep tests, only this time I noticed that with a single ematch connected at a time the "no continuity" beeps are opposite of what the manual says they ought to be. From the manual:

"The beeps are:
4 Beeps – No Main Channel continuity
5 Beeps – No Drogue Channel continuity"

If I plug a match into the drogue channel I get five beeps, and four if just a match in the main. Both altimeters behave the same, and since one has flown without giving me a main at apogee I have to imagine this is a typo. But since I built the second altimeter with the terminal block on the opposite side of the board I just want to check here to make sure I'm not crazy and this is actually a typo.

I just ran tests and my Quark behaves the same as you've noted...a match only on Drogue gives off 5 beeps. When that one match is switched to Main, I get 4 beeps.

Cris - Is this a typo in the instructions or was something changed? :confused:
 
Nope, it's a typo in the instructions. I thought I changed it a long time ago... apparently not. I'll fix it today.
 
I'm going to use a quark on my level 1 cert, for the first flight I was planning to have the quark light the "drouge" only with the main chute actually deploying at apogee. Then have motor delay as back up. I was thinking I would fly with a 100 ohm resistor attached to the "main". Is this a good idea or should I fly with nothing attached or just let the quark burn an ematch at 500 feet?
 
I'm going to use a quark on my level 1 cert, for the first flight I was planning to have the quark light the "drouge" only with the main chute actually deploying at apogee. Then have motor delay as back up. I was thinking I would fly with a 100 ohm resistor attached to the "main". Is this a good idea or should I fly with nothing attached or just let the quark burn an ematch at 500 feet?

A christmas tree light bulb works in a pinch to fake an ematch.
 
Cris will likely chime in, but here is what the Quark user guide notes:

"(Sidebar discussion….)OK, you may be wondering how to intentionally disable a channel, for example if you only want to use the Quark for single-parachute deployment in lieu of motor ejection. The Quark requires some kind of load on the deployment channels to pass the continuity checks, but it’s really not very picky about what that load might be. We typically use 100 ohm 1/4W resistors in place of an igniter to disable a channel, they draw very little current but the resistance value is low enough so that it’s below the deployment checking circuitry’s voltage threshold.(End of Sidebar…)"

​Cris
- I have some 1/8W resistors left over from the WiFi Switch remote assembly where you just use the wires...will those work for the Quark to disable a channel?
 
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Cris will likely chime in, but here is what the Quark user guide notes:

"(Sidebar discussion….)OK, you may be wondering how to intentionally disable a channel, for example if you only want to use the Quark for single-parachute deployment in lieu of motor ejection. The Quark requires some kind of load on the deployment channels to pass the continuity checks, but it’s really not very picky about what that load might be. We typically use 100 ohm 1/4W resistors in place of an igniter to disable a channel, they draw very little current but the resistance value is low enough so that it’s below the deployment checking circuitry’s voltage threshold.(End of Sidebar…)"

​Cris
- I have some 1/8W resistors left over from the WiFi Switch remote assembly where you just use the wires...will those work for the Quark to disable a channel?

Maybe. Most of the resistors that I ship with the Quantum/WiFi Switch are 1K-10K depending on what I have an excess of at the moment. 2.2K is probably as high as you could go and still get continuity picked up. Whatever you do, DON'T just solder the bare resistor wire across the pads... if you trigger the channel it will almost certainly blow the transistor.
 
Maybe. Most of the resistors that I ship with the Quantum/WiFi Switch are 1K-10K depending on what I have an excess of at the moment. 2.2K is probably as high as you could go and still get continuity picked up. Whatever you do, DON'T just solder the bare resistor wire across the pads... if you trigger the channel it will almost certainly blow the transistor.
Thanks Cris and others, I will fly with a 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor.
 
I just vacuum chamber tested a sled with a Quark and an RRC3. The drogue charges fired about 1 sec apart (which was the programmed difference), and the mains fired about 2 sec apart which was good too. They reported apogee about 250 ft apart, but that may have to do with the "flight profile"...launch to apogee at 12k in about 3 seconds. No shame in Baro reporting 2% different on that flight.

Very nice little device you've made there, Cris. I'm sure more of them are in my future.
 
I've been getting practice with my Quark-based chute tender.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?t=129976

Three of the past four flights have been good. The main challenges are tying short fishing line jumpers, so the release band is tight, and making sure the nichrome cutter connections are good - it's not easy making a good electrical connection to that stuff.

The prep work takes time - but I love that it fits in 24mm E sized motor mount tube (with a flatter wire connection, the prepped bundle would fit in BT60) and was MUCH more affordable than the (well polished) commercial option.
 
I just ran tests and my Quark behaves the same as you've noted...a match only on Drogue gives off 5 beeps. When that one match is switched to Main, I get 4 beeps.
Cris - Is this a typo in the instructions or was something changed?
Nope, it's a typo in the instructions. I thought I changed it a long time ago... apparently not. I'll fix it today.
Sorry to resurrect an ancient thread, but the same is happening for me today, I don't think the typo was ever fixed.
 
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