EggTimer Build Series

[JBoyson]

Rocketeers!
I've started working on a series of videos to help those who might be intimidated by EggTimer products find that they aren't that scary.

Just remember a few simple rules before you start.
1. Use the provided solder
2. Use a small tip, 0.032 conical tip (usually called B tips) is reccomended by EggTimer. This really helps out with the small SMT parts (yes it makes the larger components take longer, but small price to pay)
3. Keep your soldering iron around 200-250C (This helps to protect the components in case you leave the iron on the part to long, less likely to fry a part)
4. The Hope RF modules are EXTREMELY sensitive, please give a minimum of 30s between solder operations on that board
- if your board doesn't work this is likely the culprit
5. CLEAN YOUR SOLDERING IRON TIP OFTEN.

Allright, that's all!
Lets go crack some Eggs!

 

[JBoyson]

Here's the 1st video on my series

EggFinder LCD

 

[JBoyson]

Here is the 2nd video!

EggFinder GPS Module

 

[JBoyson]

Video 3 is now live!

EGGFINDER MINI

 

[cerving]

Are you using a head magnifier? If you're doing the Mini unaided, you have way better eyesight than me...

 

[JBoyson]

Are you using a head magnifier? If you're doing the Mini unaided, you have way better eyesight than me...

I do it unaided, but I am near sighted so that makes this work a bit easier for me.

Harbor Freight has some clip on jewelers loops I use for reenactment that I've used to inspect the boards post build.
https://www.harborfreight.com/165x-jewelers-clip-on-eye-loupe-94364.html?_br_psugg_q=jewlery+toolsAnother great option is head mounted jewlrey magnifiers. My dad has some I've snagged for this kind of work in the past.
https://www.amazon.com/Magnifier-Pr...-Replaceable-Magnification/dp/B07HRM9GW9?th=1

 

[Sparkyflyer14]

I recently build the same system you have been building. My LCD receiver will make some strange noises. For example, when tracking, the periodic double beep will be very sporadic, with occasional pauses and breaks in the rhythm. Is this normal? or my error in building? Also what is the accuracy of the distance and direction to rocket? I feel like Its way off, but that may have been the circumstances.

 

[JBoyson]

So I've found that there can be some distance errors and the tracker will get you within 10-20ft, but that's more than close enough to find the rocket for me.
Also the sporadic beep for me has been a quick loss and regaining of signal. I ran into a situation where the tracker was in the nose cone and my parachute was lifting/lowering it over the horizon so I would get random beeps. Once I got close and could see what was happening it gave me a good laugh.

 

[DerRedMax]

Great Video! Hope there are more Eggfoner/EggTimer product assembly videos. Very helpful.

 

[StreuB1]

Are you using a head magnifier? If you're doing the Mini unaided, you have way better eyesight than me...

I've never used anything other than the unaided eye when building all the kits I've bought from you. I guess I now realize that might be a bit out of the ordinary!!

I look forward to the challenge of the Quasars once they arrive!

 

[JBoyson]

If your looking for some soldering iron tips, the link below is a multi pack on Amazon, but the I and B tips included will work well for EggTimer Products.
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Ta...&sprefix=soldering+iron+tips,tools,157&sr=1-5

 

[cerving]

I just bought the same tip set, along with a Hakko FX-888D... my 10 y/o 60W Velleman station gave up the ghost.

 

[mtnmanak]

I just bought the same tip set, along with a Hakko FX-888D... my 10 y/o 60W Velleman station gave up the ghost.

Hakko's are awesome - I use a Hakko FM-203 and love it:

 

[JBoyson]

Video 4 is not live!
Went over the integration of the EggFinder LCD, GPS and MINI and used them all to track down my newest build.
Total time from start of build to 1st flight was 4 days. Huge thanks to EggTimer for making an increadible product!

 

[JBoyson]

It's time for the next build through video!
This is a very simple build and can be a great place to start if you are new to soldering boards.

EGGTIMER VOICE MODULE!

 

[Tommie D]

First of all, I think this excellent thread should be a "sticky" so I don't have to search for it.

If your looking for some soldering iron tips, the link below is a multi pack on Amazon, but the I and B tips included will work well for EggTimer Products.
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Ta...&sprefix=soldering+iron+tips,tools,157&sr=1-5

Since viewing a couple of your videos I have decided to give it a shot and try my luck. I ordered a Weller station and a couple of basic learn to solder projects. Do you have any recommendations on other tools like wire cutters, pliers, tweezers and others that you use ?

 

[DaHabes]

I started from scratch building Eggtimers in 2020 and this is the list of tools I have acquired.

1. You need a lighted loupe to examine your work - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GZZWQYG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. A basic wire stripper if you don't have one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9875Z7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3. A third hand is often very helpful - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016OIWY8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4. Or a Pana-vise, which I is use frequently - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B61D22/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5. Solder wick for when you screw up - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UVWJ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
6. Extra solder - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1JLFIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
7. Tip Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FYJC3DF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
8. Precision tweezers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K9VQRQU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
9. Kapton tape (for when you need to electrically isolate some components) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZFNB2I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10. THIS TIP - Do not get the 7008A44 - it's too big. This one is perfect for Eggtimer stuff. It was recommended by another Rocketeer who I consuted with after I borked a couple of builds
11. I swap component sleds between rockets, so sometimes I need to use ferrules to facilitate that -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRQN45C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's pretty much it. The key to soldering is recognize when the solder flows. If you don't see it flow, it won't make a good connection. You'll know it when you see it.

Also, the videos suggest to run the soldering iron at 200-250C. That's too low. 250C is 482F. Here is what Chris Erving responded when I asked him - "Start with 680F and go up or down by about 20F depending on what the solder is doing... it it tends to stick to the pads, go up 20F, if the flux "pops" go down 20F. That's based on a 1/32" tip (0.8mm)."

I stopped borking boards when I got to the right temp. More heat for less time is better than less heat for more time, IMO. YMMV. The solder also never flowed well at the lower temps.

 

[waltr]

More heat for less time is better than less heat for more time,

Yep, that is what I do.
This is also less likely to damage components.

 

[DaHabes]

Yep, that is what I do.
This is also less likely to damage components.

Which is why I borked 2 Eggfinder Mini's out of the gate...

 

[cerving]

Yes, having the soldering iron too cold is very common. A lot of people set their workstations to the melting temperature of the solder... which doesn't take into account the fact that you actually want to transfer heat to the parts and have the joint melt the solder, not melt the solder on your iron's tip. We recommend 680F for a starting tip temperature, based on using a 0.8mm conical tip.

BTW, the solder we ship is Kester 245, 63/37 0.5mm... p/n 24-6337-8807. It's only available in 1# spools, however there are a few resellers on eBay/Amazon that repackage it into the smaller dispenser tubes.

 

[Tractionengines]

More heat for less time is better than less heat for more time, IMO.

Correct UP TO A POINT. It is possible to apply too much heat too fast, and stress crack a component or lift a trace from the board. BUT NOT enough heat leading to heat on too long, and cold solder joints, IS MUCH MORE common.

 

[Voyager1]

Yep, that is what I do.
This is also less likely to damage components.

Yes, I regularly use 350C (about 660F). Tip choice is also important, depending on component lead and pad sizes (heat sinking). In some cases it is also handy to use a little flux to improve heat transfer and surface cleaning, particularly if you’re not using flux-cored solder.

 

[lspikol]

This is a very useful thread, especially those considering building eggtimers. Having built about 20 kits with about 90% success (including 2 TRS and a Quasar build), I have only a few pieces of advice to add:
Take your time and be well rested when you build/solder. BECAUSE..unsoldering is a PITA AT BEST AND IMPOSSIBLE AT WORST.
I always walk away and take a break after 20-30 minutes. Some of the more complex kits take 2-3 days of intermittent work.
Besides the technical aspects which are mentioned previously there is a "feel" for SMT soldering that is developed only after a few builds. If you enjoy doing this give yourself time to develop the "Zen of soldering"
Finally, thanks Cris for wonderfully engineered products and deciding to pre-mount the GPS units!

 

[Crayok]

Great thread

One of the things I show the local club building the Eggtimer products is to clean the boards with alcohol (99%) first, let dry and also use a flux. Yes the solder comes with flux but for newbies doing the build the flux allows even better solder joints and finish. One advantage is a bit of stick before the iron comes close but you should still hold the part down as the stick goes away when heated. Also if you have a bit of a solder ball on the solder tip you just need to do a light touch and it transfers to the part much nicer because of the flux coating on both part and pad. lets you hold the part down with one hand and solder iron in the other. Once solder tacked, you can switch to the solder on the part hold down hand.

It does have the drawback you need to clean the board after with alcohol (sometimes acetone) and keep that out of some components (baro, piezo...).

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...9mnu72iy-lJ4uf2uDwklbXKqW5B3mErBoCmN0QAvD_BwE
Sorry for the long link but I personally don't like clicking on shortened obfuscated links.

dB

 

[JBoyson]

Thanks for all your comments and reccomendations.
I likely should have added the caviat in my initial post that my soldering iron is a cheap one from Amazon and I have never trusted its temp setting method.
Through use I have found it runs hot, this has led me to running it on a "colder" setting and I hesitate to run it hotter because I dont want to risk ruining these boards as I'm building them.
Currently doesn't look like I can edit that initial post to add this caviat so I'll just have to hope everyone reads to hear.

Thanks again for all your great comments, I always look forward to reading them and learning more from this great community!

 

[cerving]

I'm not a fan of tacky flux, the problem is that if you don't get it hot enough it can actually act as an insulator, plus it leaves the board a mess. I recommend Kester 951 liquid flux, if you REALLY have to use extra flux. It leaves virtually no residue, except for whatever flux is left on the board; it cleans up easily with isopropyl. If the tip and temperature are correct, however, you should not need any extra flux.

 

[Voyager1]

If I use any flux, the boards get cleaned with a soft tooth brush and IPA. I don't want the residue either.

 

[Tractionengines]

@cerving what would you think of Kester 959T as flux if needed for re-work, etc. I usually don't add extra flux, but sometimes if something didn't look right, a TINY amount (just enough to dampen ) and refow, seems to work OK. Or if a part needs to be replaced, it has worked. But it's not a Halogen free, and has a trace amount of rosin.

Here is MFG Description: Kester 959T is a no-clean, non-corrosive, liquid flux that is designed for the wave soldering of conventional and surface mount circuit board assemblies. 959T was developed to minimize the formation of micro-solderballs during wave soldering operations. This flux contains a small percentage of rosin (0.5%), which improves solderability, heat stability and surface insulation resistance. 959T offers the best wetting and the shiniest solder joints of any no-clean, solvent-based chemistry. 959T leaves evenly distributed residues for the best cosmetic appearance. 959T is classified as ORL0.

 

[Crayok]

Everyone has a technique that works for them. Flux has made the work for the folks I help much easier and I use it on all boards I do. My bigger boards are done with paste and that has a wealth of flux in it as well. As mentioned temperature is very important for soldering and having a known temp offset for the tip/device you are using is key. But that gets further away from a simple, just solder it place .

As to being an insulator I guess that could happen but then you know there is an issue, as opposed to an intermittent contact for the same misssoldered joint. either way it is an issue.

I hope what comes across here is there are a few ways to get the job done. Your instructions Cris, are great, I don't want to take away from that. Plus there are quite a few folks around here that would not have ventured into building electronics without your kits and gaining a little bit more understanding on the magic of electronics.


dB

 

[cerving]

@cerving what would you think of Kester 959T as flux if needed for re-work, etc. I usually don't add extra flux, but sometimes if something didn't look right, a TINY amount (just enough to dampen ) and refow, seems to work OK. Or if a part needs to be replaced, it has worked. But it's not a Halogen free, and has a trace amount of rosin.

Here is MFG Description: Kester 959T is a no-clean, non-corrosive, liquid flux that is designed for the wave soldering of conventional and surface mount circuit board assemblies. 959T was developed to minimize the formation of micro-solderballs during wave soldering operations. This flux contains a small percentage of rosin (0.5%), which improves solderability, heat stability and surface insulation resistance. 959T offers the best wetting and the shiniest solder joints of any no-clean, solvent-based chemistry. 959T leaves evenly distributed residues for the best cosmetic appearance. 959T is classified as ORL0.

959T is sold in gallons, it's for wave soldering processes rather than hand-soldering or SMT rework. Stick with Kester 951, which you can get in little dispensing syringes.