I ordered a new launch pad from Estes. Now that my kids are getting into the hobby I wanted a basic low-power launch pad that was just for them to use. Anyway I got the launch pad yesterday and assembly was fine, but as it was just sitting in the corner not being touched the top 1/3rd of the launch rod slowly fell and snapped off. The small metal connector that joins the two pieces together was apparently defective and broke. There's still a launch rod, it's just lost 1/3rd of its length. While this is still an appropriate size for their smaller rockets, I would be nervous to fire their larger sized ones on it. My question is, can I solder the two rod pieces back together? In other words, will the bond be strong enough to be safe for launches? I did just go ahead and order a new rod but I'm trying to see if I can salvage the existing one. I realize it may not even be worth it. Thoughts?
Defective rod on new launch pad
- Thread starter b0g_nerd
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Have you contacted Estes Support?
I sent an email but haven't heard back yet.
You can get a 3 foot metal launch rod at Lowes or Home Depot in the isle where they have all kinds of these metal rods, just get the 1/8" by 3 foot one.
I've been using those for decades instead of using the two piece rods made that way for display & shipping reasons.
In hardware next to angle iron stuff. Hobby shops used to also have "Music Wire" displays but I haven't seen one in a long time.
Edit: Make sure to pick one out that is not bent or have a "curve" to it, make sure it's straight.
I've been using those for decades instead of using the two piece rods made that way for display & shipping reasons.
In hardware next to angle iron stuff. Hobby shops used to also have "Music Wire" displays but I haven't seen one in a long time.
Edit: Make sure to pick one out that is not bent or have a "curve" to it, make sure it's straight.
That was going to be my next step actually. It seems more sturdy anyways
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And the music wire rod is one piece, so there is no joint to slow the rockets as the lug passes over it.
When I was in high school, over 50 years ago. one of my classmates was one of 12 kids in his family. He was the third oldest, and a brilliant mathematician. His oldest brother, Paul, was equally bright. So, Steve, my classmate, told his brothers about my 8th grade rocket science project. At the time, I lamented that I didn't know any farmers, and I had no place to launch my rockets. Over time, Steve suggested, behind his family's house, there was a large farm owned and operated by the state. He didn't see a problem once the corn had been harvested, using it as a rocket range. I am guessing it was at least 200 acres, surrounded by a thick perimeter of tall oak trees, probably 100 years old, and at least 70 feet tall.
Estes at the time, sold a square red plastic box that could house 4 to 8 "D" size batteries, (that could be easily modified for such an arrangement). A two part rod, blast deflector, and small control panel came with the box for launching. Paul didn't like the two part rod. He set to work on wire hanger with pliers, hammer and a vise, straightening out the all the bends the hanger possessed. I was amazed at how well it came out! Perfectly straight! None of us were in college yet. And we were all, financially challenged. Where there is a will, there is a way.
When I initially met Paul, he was building a jet engine, the plans he was using came from Popular Mechanics. He was 2 or 3 years older.
Estes at the time, sold a square red plastic box that could house 4 to 8 "D" size batteries, (that could be easily modified for such an arrangement). A two part rod, blast deflector, and small control panel came with the box for launching. Paul didn't like the two part rod. He set to work on wire hanger with pliers, hammer and a vise, straightening out the all the bends the hanger possessed. I was amazed at how well it came out! Perfectly straight! None of us were in college yet. And we were all, financially challenged. Where there is a will, there is a way.
When I initially met Paul, he was building a jet engine, the plans he was using came from Popular Mechanics. He was 2 or 3 years older.
Call them or go the Home Depot, Lowes route. They always replace defective items, can not tell you how many rocket parts I got from defective ejection charges.
I store my launch rods (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") in a length of PVC tubing. One end has the cap glued on and the other end I painted red to identify the removable cap. I've never been fond of the 2 piece or even 3 piece rods but I got to admit they are a whole lot more portable when separated.
lr64
Well-Known Member
Music wire in particular is very strong, at least for its size. So get that if you have a choice.
My very first launch rod was a coat hanger. Spent some time straightening it out then stuck it into a home made plywood launch block and attached my homemade launch controller to send. Ah, them were the '70s and childhood.
1) You should get a replacement from Estes regardless
2) Don't try to repair it
3) A single-piece rod is certainly superior, but a bit less convenient to store and transport. A piece of PVC tube with a cap at each end is a good choice. Also, if using plain steel rod from Home Depot you'll need to store it in such a way as to prevent rust (I think some keep them oiled but that is an annoying mess. Or you can just steel wool it each time before you use it to remove corrosion). Not sure if music wire will rust or not.
2) Don't try to repair it
3) A single-piece rod is certainly superior, but a bit less convenient to store and transport. A piece of PVC tube with a cap at each end is a good choice. Also, if using plain steel rod from Home Depot you'll need to store it in such a way as to prevent rust (I think some keep them oiled but that is an annoying mess. Or you can just steel wool it each time before you use it to remove corrosion). Not sure if music wire will rust or not.
Rocket exhaust residue is corrosive. After a launch day, scrub it with Scotch Brite, and apply WD-40 for rust prevention. Spray some onto a paper towel, and wipe the rod. A rusty rod on launch day sucks.
lr64
Well-Known Member
Typical music wire rusts, but there is also stainless steel spring wire. Almost as strong as piano wire. If the exhaust is especially corrosive, I should think waxing the rod would help some. Car wax or carnauba wax or something like that so the friction is low.
One spec for music wire is ASTM 228. Stainless steel would be something else.
One spec for music wire is ASTM 228. Stainless steel would be something else.
Titan II
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Annoying mess? Good grief! Wiping it down with a little oil on a Klennex does not result in an annoying mess. Use WD-40, gun oil, vegetable oil, olive oil (my favorite), avacado oil, canola oil, motor oil (conventional or synthetic), or anything else you have in the kitchen or garage. Keeping a piece of piano wire from not rusting is not rocket science....or messy.
I tried some air-tool oil, but there still was some corrosion. WD-40 works better.
Reason for my comment: I was at a club launch and slid a rocket down a launch rod and immediately ended up with a rocket and my hands covered in oil. I surmised that the rod was oiled before being put away and then not wiped off (or at least, not wiped off well enough) before the launch. Was not real happy about it.
WD-40 volatile solvents will evaporate, leaving a protective coating that won’t goop up your rocket. (Unless someone thought it best to apply right before launching, rather than after.)
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
Coast Phase
New Member
It may not be financially efficient for a single launch rod, but aren't there plenty of spray can delivered, antirust concoctions that would prevent a rust prone rod from needing any kind of oil or other material (wax?) that would come off on hands?
We buy stainless from the start.
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I buy my launch rods from Zoro. 304 stainless steel (I think), six ft length, very reasonable price, $5.00 shipping. So far, all of mine have been straight. I cut them down to size as needed. A 1/8” rod any longer than about four feet gets pretty whippy.
I rub them down with a 250-400 grit scotchbrite pad or some 0000 steel wool to take off any retained mill finish, then wipe down with either carnauba wax or WD-40, then wipe it off. i’ll wipe it off again when setting the rod up and when stowing it at the end of the day.
I, too, store my rods in a long PVC tube with a painted red screw cap. I epoxied a metal slug (maybe it was a quarter) in the inside of the bottom cap so when I drop a rod in it doesn’t bash a hole out the bottom.
I also have a few hot rolled steel rods i bought from Home Depot before I found out about Zoro. They take a lot more maintenance due to the corrosive exhaust and they always get a wipe of WD-40 before being put away.
I rub them down with a 250-400 grit scotchbrite pad or some 0000 steel wool to take off any retained mill finish, then wipe down with either carnauba wax or WD-40, then wipe it off. i’ll wipe it off again when setting the rod up and when stowing it at the end of the day.
I, too, store my rods in a long PVC tube with a painted red screw cap. I epoxied a metal slug (maybe it was a quarter) in the inside of the bottom cap so when I drop a rod in it doesn’t bash a hole out the bottom.
I also have a few hot rolled steel rods i bought from Home Depot before I found out about Zoro. They take a lot more maintenance due to the corrosive exhaust and they always get a wipe of WD-40 before being put away.
I probably should try WD-40, but what I've been doing is cleaning with steel wool, and then spraying with a dry lube containing Teflon. It doesn't make a mess when handling it at the launch site.
Hans.
Hans.
lr64
Well-Known Member
Carnauba wax doesn't make a mess after you buff it. You could probably use regular car wax, too.
All good advice above, getting a new rod from Estes Service and/or getting a one piece rod.
As for the opening question, no, you probably cant get a good solder joint, and you'd have a hard time getting it dead straight even if you can. If I'm not mistaken, the Estes rod is plated either with chromium or nickel; nickel needs acid flux and chromium is damn near impossible to solder.
Remember, stainless steel is not perfectly corrosion proof either, so the protection measures above are a good idea no matter what material you get. Cleaning after a launch especially; oil or wax or some other coating is a great idea (I should suggest that my club start doing it) but getting the corrosive junk off is the most important thing. Also, bring a Scotchbrite pad or a piece of fine steel wool with you when you go to launch.
As for the opening question, no, you probably cant get a good solder joint, and you'd have a hard time getting it dead straight even if you can. If I'm not mistaken, the Estes rod is plated either with chromium or nickel; nickel needs acid flux and chromium is damn near impossible to solder.
Remember, stainless steel is not perfectly corrosion proof either, so the protection measures above are a good idea no matter what material you get. Cleaning after a launch especially; oil or wax or some other coating is a great idea (I should suggest that my club start doing it) but getting the corrosive junk off is the most important thing. Also, bring a Scotchbrite pad or a piece of fine steel wool with you when you go to launch.
Just to add a me too ...
I bought two launch system kits from Hobby Lobby so my granddaughters could have 'rocket races'.
One of the rod joints was so loose I didn't want to use it.
I just replaced both of them with Home Depot 1/8 inch mild steel rods -- cheap and easy ...
And part of their cleanup routine after a launch is for the girls to wipe down the rods with a shop rag and WD-40.
HTH
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This keeps stuff from rusting in my garage. Use it on tools, etc. It also works on launch rods.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014743671
If you buy music wire or the regular milled stuff at HD/Lowe's, be sure to check the pieces for straightness. The K&S music wire at my local ace often has a spiral twist to it.
The best deal per foot is the local steel supply place, where 20-ft lengths are about $6. You can have them cut it or bring your own hacksaw and cut it in the parking lot. Also, wipe it down to get the black nastiness off it if it's going inside your vehicle.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014743671
If you buy music wire or the regular milled stuff at HD/Lowe's, be sure to check the pieces for straightness. The K&S music wire at my local ace often has a spiral twist to it.
The best deal per foot is the local steel supply place, where 20-ft lengths are about $6. You can have them cut it or bring your own hacksaw and cut it in the parking lot. Also, wipe it down to get the black nastiness off it if it's going inside your vehicle.
... and deburr your cuts.
I used a 3ft brass rod for many years. Stainless rods are best because they keep rust away. After that comes brass, then standard metal rods. You can get rods at most hardware stores (Lowe’s, Menards, Tractor Supply). Welding shops also carry rods 3ft rods. Also, McMaster-Carr online carries them. I’d go to a local store first—shipping is ridiculous on things over 30 inches anymore.
After flight, use a Scotch Brite pad on them, soaked with a little WD-40 or Sewing Matching Oil. Scrub the rods, then remove junk with paper towel and put a little oil on the rod to prevent corrosion until the next use. I bought a piece of 1” PVC pipe at hardware store and made a launch rod storage container. Put a cap on each end. Make sure one cap is removable
After flight, use a Scotch Brite pad on them, soaked with a little WD-40 or Sewing Matching Oil. Scrub the rods, then remove junk with paper towel and put a little oil on the rod to prevent corrosion until the next use. I bought a piece of 1” PVC pipe at hardware store and made a launch rod storage container. Put a cap on each end. Make sure one cap is removable
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