Blast Deflectors Sized For A 10/10 Rail

[BigRiJoe]

Are there any commercially made blast deflectors that'll fir around a 10/10 rail?

 

[Dipstick]

You might to carve the fir for that to work

We've used big 10-12" cutoff saw/grinder blades, some of them have a hole just big enough and they take a beating.

 

[Bat-mite]

Stainless pizza lifter? Already angled.

 

[KennB]

Used harrow discs (or new ones, they aren't that expensive). They have a square opening about 1-1/8". If you don't want the wiggle, which can mar your rail, you can weld in a square tube that fits over the 1010. Thanks to Jim Moe, Pad Manager, MMMSC.

 

[aerostadt]

I bought one of those harrow disc on-line. It does fit loosely over a 1010 rail that I use for a launch pad for DynaSoar rocket gliders.

 

[Funkworks]

[...] We've used big 10-12" cutoff saw/grinder blades, some of them have a hole just big enough and they take a beating.

Is 10-12" big enough? I like the idea of a harrow blade, but I'm not sure which size to get. I'll be on G motors max for a while and perhaps H if I find time for L1 certification. I just never really noticed how big a smoke cloud these make.

 

[KennB]

Basically, you want the deflector under the motor nozzle. If you have a Ø10 inch disc that give you 4.5 inches beyond the edge of the 1010 rail. Allowing for some margin to the edge you could fly up to a Ø7 inch rocket and still keep the flame on the disc.

 

[rharshberger]

Our club uses a .25" thick 9-12" deflector at about 15degrees from horizontal and that is covered by a 14" chopsaw/cutoff wheel. Our blast deflectors are built into the pad on most of our pads.

 

[Steve Shannon]

Bolt a 5/8 or 3/4 inch steel rod to your rail and just drill a hole large enough for the rod to pass through, leaving all of the rail above the plate.. I made the mistake of cutting a rail sized hole through a blast plate, thinking I was pretty clever, but all it does is swallow up half a foot or so of the rail, and the exhaust follows the slot in the rail through the plate.

 

[Funkworks]

Bolt a 5/8 or 3/4 inch steel rod to your rail and just drill a hole large enough for the rod to pass through, leaving all of the rail above the plate.. I made the mistake of cutting a rail sized hole through a blast plate, thinking I was pretty clever, but all it does is swallow up half a foot or so of the rail, and the exhaust follows the slot in the rail through the plate.

Good tip. In my case however, ordering a longer rail and plugging it somehow sounds easier than extending the rail with a steel rod, even a pipe.

 

[Steve Shannon]

Good tip. In my case however, ordering a longer rail and plugging it somehow sounds easier than extending the rail with a steel rod, even a pipe.

A foot long piece of 1/2 inch steel rod with two holes drilled in it and two machine screw going into two tee nuts that fit the slots in 1010 rail can be self made for probably $10 if you have to buy the rod. Giant Leap sells them remade for $32.
https://giantleaprocketry.com/products/components_launch_systems.aspx

 

[Funkworks]

Ah yes, I have a bicycle repair stand on the way for this purpose. I think the minimum it can grip is 1".
1" square grip, 1" square rail, 1" square harrow blade center, so I saw a nice theme going on there.
But yes, everyone is telling me I'm going to smoke it.

 

[Steve Shannon]

Ah yes, I have a bicycle repair stand on the way for this purpose. I think the minimum it can grip is 1".
1" square grip, 1" square rail, 1" square harrow blade center, so I saw a nice theme going on there.
But yes, everyone is telling me I'm going to smoke it.

Depending on how large of rockets (both average thrust as well as weight) I would recommend staking that; the base isn’t very large. I know people have gotten away using them, but I’ve seen pads tip with very high thrust motors, such as Warp 9.

 

[DaHabes]

I found this in a different thread on TRF and used it for my Jawstand launch pad. It's an 8" cake lifter. Pull off the plastic grip on top and bolt it to your rail. I incorporate a corner anlge ( usually used for joining rails ay 90 degree agles) as a standoff for the rocket to rest on. The blast shield is bolted directly to the rail, removable with an allen wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOELLI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[rharshberger]

I found this in a different thread on TRF and used it for my Jawstand launch pad. It's an 8" cake lifter. Pull off the plastic grip on top and bolt it to your rail. I incorporate a corner anlge ( usually used for joining rails ay 90 degree agles) as a standoff for the rocket to rest on. The blast shield is bolted directly to the rail, removable with an allen wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOELLI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

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One thing to watch out for is that HPR motors and motors like the G138T could straighten that aluminum blast deflector parallel to the rod. We had one made from 11 or 12gauge steel that a H motor flattened and thats basically 1/8th" steel.

 

[DaHabes]

Thanks for the tip. Time for some modifications....

 

[danresendes]

Here is my custom blast plate! Upside down of course! Ordered it here