Biggest scratch build yet - Bluto

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I don't have all the 29mm tubes yet, but I did a test fit with a couple of pieces I had. Holy moly, this thing is crazy!

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Not real familiar with cluster composite motors. How do you ignite them? Is it sort of the same procedure as black powder? What type of igniters do you use?

Exactly build so far.....that rocket is going to go out of sight!!
 
Not real familiar with cluster composite motors. How do you ignite them? Is it sort of the same procedure as black powder? What type of igniters do you use?

Exactly build so far.....that rocket is going to go out of sight!!

I've never clustered composite motors either. My thinking is to use Cesaroni motors because they light so easily. As far as I know, their top grains have a black powder pellet in them that helps them light fast. The ignitors that come with them are some sort of electric match. I have yet to have a CTI motor fail to light the very first time.
 
You will SO be using all of those motor mounts.

Not a question of if, just when.

Probably around the time you realize you should built it with a 75mm main tube after all. :lol:
 
You will SO be using all of those motor mounts.

Not a question of if, just when.

Probably around the time you realize you should built it with a 75mm main tube after all. :lol:

You think you know me so well! Why would I want to go with a 75mm mount? Clusters are so much more fun!
 
I found another piece of 29mm motor tube, so I couldn't resist a new test fit. I haven't quite decided yet how I'm going to align all the tubes. The only thing I can think of is to use a small square, but I'm definitely open to suggestions.

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Using all CTI is one way.
Using excellent igniters is another.
Using a little 'enhancement' on the igniters is another.
What kinda of enhancement?
Well allegedly sort of like rumors I have heard... hearsay...
1) Paint the top grain with a pyrogen.
2) Add a little piece of 'something-something' taped along side your igniter - assuming it'll get past the nozzle.
3) Take a sliver of blue thunder propellent from 18mm D RMS and tape it next to the igniter
4) Carve a tiny little pocket in the upper most grain and embed a little 'something' in it.
5) Take long pieces of 'a little magic something-something' run that up the motor sheathed, tie the ends together with an igniter...

Just sayin' these are allegedly sort of like rumors I have heard... hearsay... *I* myself have never done this...
 
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...I haven't quite decided yet how I'm going to align all the tubes. The only thing I can think of is to use a small square, but I'm definitely open to suggestions.

Re-stack your CR's exactly how you had them at the time of drilling and then score the edge with your band saw blade. Really you could just mark the edges with a fine tip Sharpe, just make sure the line is perfectly vertical. This will give you a reference mark that you can use along with a tall straight edge to align all the CR's up. In addition to that you can measure each tube where the CR will be glued and draw a line around the tube. Then take electrical tape, painters tape (something with thickness) and wrap it around the tube where your lines are drawn. This will create an edge or "platform" for your CR to rest perfectly level until all the glue dries. Just remove the tape when done.

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BTW going back to weight in the NC, there is an article in the latest Apogee Rockets newsletter that although about mounting an Avbay in a nose cone, relates to one of the methods of holding all-thread in a plastic nose cone.
 
Re-stack your CR's exactly how you had them at the time of drilling and then score the edge with your band saw blade. Really you could just mark the edges with a fine tip Sharpe, just make sure the line is perfectly vertical. This will give you a reference mark that you can use along with a tall straight edge to align all the CR's up. In addition to that you can measure each tube where the CR will be glued and draw a line around the tube. Then take electrical tape, painters tape (something with thickness) and wrap it around the tube where your lines are drawn. This will create an edge or "platform" for your CR to rest perfectly level until all the glue dries. Just remove the tape when done.

Very clever idea about putting the mark on the centering rings.
 
BTW going back to weight in the NC, there is an article in the latest Apogee Rockets newsletter that although about mounting an Avbay in a nose cone, relates to one of the methods of holding all-thread in a plastic nose cone.

I had thought about embedding an end of threaded rod in the resin, but wondered how well it would hold.
 
I flooded the inside edges of the body tubes, and inside and outside edges of the coupler with CA. I also epoxied the Stiffy into the coupler and sanded the bulkheads a little to get them to fit smoothly. Finally, I attached the vent band to the coupler by wicking CA around it.

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this is a great build thread quake!I'm learning a lot of great building techniques, can't wait to see it launch! too bad you're in california i'd gladly come out to see it launch if it was closer
 
Man, this has really got me into thinking...lol

Not NEAR ready to look at L3, but working with DD and stuff, just LOVE the bigger rockets, and Bluto is what I'm talkin about!! LOL

Would also do another 54mm first, but think I might just start planning the 75mm, you only buy the hardware once...minus accessories and it may nickle and dime ya, but the way I see, get the hardware NOW, save for the motors later!!!

Nice work Jim...keep em coming!!!!

David
 
The 29mm motor tubes came in from BMS, so I cut them to length with the miter saw. And using Launch Lug's suggestion, I cut an alignment mark in the centering rings.

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You were thinking ahead.

I'd have bought a 54mm case, too, but Bay Area Rocketry had no 1 or 2 grain cases left (for my Madcow Squat and L2 ship). They had everything else I needed, tho.

Not really. I was planning on buying a 4 grain case, one spacer, the aft closure, and the DAT. But I bought the starter set, which will take 1 to 6 grain reloads. But I wasn't thinking about the length of the 6 grain case. The 7.51" LOC body tubes are only 30" long, and the 6 grain case is 22" long.
 
Same I as me I think. I have a 54XL I got off eBay for $80. That was a sweet deal. Then I ordered from Sunward to get the DAT, spacers, and a 3 grain. Now all I need is money. :)
 
You have inspired me, looking at two sections (4 30") of the 7.51 tubing for a 75mm!!
 
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