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skybuster

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Hi everyone,
I was lucky to have today off and I started to work on my Comet Chaser when I noticed that my balsa fins (in the sheet) were cracked on the ends. I have not cut them out, nor have I sanded them. I was wondering what would be the best way to fix this. I'm thinking of cutting them out, gluing them with wood glue, and then doing the sanding. anyone had this happen before, comments, opinions, suggestions?

Thanks for the help!
 
Hi everyone,
I was lucky to have today off and I started to work on my Comet Chaser when I noticed that my balsa fins (in the sheet) were cracked on the ends. I have not cut them out, nor have I sanded them. I was wondering what would be the best way to fix this. I'm thinking of cutting them out, gluing them with wood glue, and then doing the sanding. anyone had this happen before, comments, opinions, suggestions?

Thanks for the help!

Just use thin CA glue... And this also works with broken fins too.
 
You could fix with glue as you suggest. Another option - depending on how badly damaged they are - would be to cut out a new set of fins, provided you have the extra balsa.

Also, you could consider a warranty claim from Estes at this link https://www.estesrockets.com/contact-us
 
Hi everyone,
I was lucky to have today off and I started to work on my Comet Chaser when I noticed that my balsa fins (in the sheet) were cracked on the ends. I have not cut them out, nor have I sanded them. I was wondering what would be the best way to fix this. I'm thinking of cutting them out, gluing them with wood glue, and then doing the sanding. anyone had this happen before, comments, opinions, suggestions?

Thanks for the help!

Wood glue is an excellent remedy for broken laser or die cut fins. Most Packaging breaks which happen every so often are along a natural grain line. Once re-glued using yellow or brown carpenters glue or plain old elmers white glue for that matter, the joint will remain stronger then the balsa wood itself.
CA works great for Quick "on-the-Field" repairs but CA's become brittle over time making a break at the same spot more likely in the fairly near future.
any of the wood glues are a slower curing but better long term solution.

Another suggestion depending on how "Swept or Pointy" the fin pattern is would be to paper both sides of the fins after the repair. This "Lamination" process greatly increases the stength of the balsa fin without adding much in the way of mass. Papering also helps a great deal hiding grain lines. Just about any type paper can be used, I find onion skin tracing paper works very well with watered down white glue. Plain wrapping paper tissue can also be used but it is a good bit more susceptible to wrinkling.
Coat one side and leanding edge of the fin with thinned white glue and quickly lay on an oversized sheet of paper in the glue. Lay the fin paper side down on a sheet of wax paper being careful not to move the fin around much while coating the other side with glue and wrapping the paper round the leading edge of the fin onto the remaining side of the fin completing the lamination. cover this side with another piece of wax paper or folded over portion of the bottom wax paper sheet. With the fin covered both sides with waxed paper, working from center out to the edges smooth in a circling motion with your finger any ridges of glue and paper. Weight the laminated fin or fins letting them sit overnight under the weight of a couple heavy books. Once dry carefully peel off the wax paper and trim the excess tissue or tracing paper. I generally leave the trailing, root and tip edges open. They can be wrapped but it takes another application which usually adds a line to the fins flat plane without adding much to the overall strength.
Hope this helps.
 
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If there are just cracks and the pieces already fit together perfectly, I'd use thin superglue--the glue will wick into the crack and the wood will be as good as new. One of those thin tip applicators are great for applying just a little bit of glue. If may help to have a paper towel to wipe away any accidents. ;) You might also get some debonder.
I don't worry about the glue getting brittle--the soft wood around the joint acts as a shock absorber--think of brittle glass encased in lots of bubble wrap--seems to work most of the time.

Wood glue tends to be more of a hassle, as you may not be able to get all the pieces back together if you take them apart to apply glue.
 
If there are just cracks and the pieces already fit together perfectly, I'd use thin superglue--the glue will wick into the crack and the wood will be as good as new. One of those thin tip applicators are great for applying just a little bit of glue. If may help to have a paper towel to wipe away any accidents. ;) You might also get some debonder.
I don't worry about the glue getting brittle--the soft wood around the joint acts as a shock absorber--think of brittle glass encased in lots of bubble wrap--seems to work most of the time.

Wood glue tends to be more of a hassle, as you may not be able to get all the pieces back together if you take them apart to apply glue.

I'll have to correct your thinking just a bit Zack:
If the fins flaws are just cracks it is not necessary to seperate the cracked areas into peices to use proper wood glues to make permanent repairs that will be stronger then the wood surrounding the repaired joint. Simply dilute the wood glue with a few drops of water to give it a thinner consistancy. Gently bend the cracked area "SLIGHTLY" open while applying the thinned glue to the crack. Rub it into the crack with a finger, close the crack, whip up the excess, cover with wax paper and weight with a book while the wood glue sets. Brittle CA is not a good choice for any long term wood part repair. It's ok as an on the field quick fix for a broken fin or tube but is really not the best method for permanent long lasting raw wood repairs.
 
If this a beater rocket then CA will work fine, especially if you think it will only fly/last a season or so.

BUT: I found out the hard way it is not a long term remedy, especially if you are doing a nice build & paint job on your project.

I used CA to repair the exact problem you have many years ago & sure enough only about 12-14 months later fin part were literally falling off when launched or handled.

This was way, way back. I took Micro's advice, wood glue & paper re-enforcement. Plus I used enough extra paper to add tabs on the paper to help hold the fins on the tube.

2 things happened. I got fantastic looking paint jobs without all the sanding and filling. Fins that stay put & take more abuse than the standard glue and fillet method.

Aren't the forums great. Got a problem? You will get many ways to fix it, depending on your needs!
 
Hi everyone,
I was lucky to have today off and I started to work on my Comet Chaser when I noticed that my balsa fins (in the sheet) were cracked on the ends. I have not cut them out, nor have I sanded them. I was wondering what would be the best way to fix this. I'm thinking of cutting them out, gluing them with wood glue, and then doing the sanding. anyone had this happen before, comments, opinions, suggestions?

Thanks for the help!

These are laser or die cut correct??

In the old days when you traced a paper pattern on the sheet and then cut them out with the hobby knife, you just avoided the 'bad spots' in the balsa. Not an option for you I take it.

My advice is to paper the fins. Pop them out of the sheet, sand in any airfoil you desire, then grab a few sheets of regular printer paper and the white glue. Lay the fin with the leading edge toward the center of the paper, about 1/2 inch from the edge of the paper. Hold it down and gently trace around it with a pencil (this gives you a glue application guide). Once traced, CAREFULLY roll the fin over its leading edge (make sure it doesn't slip on the paper if you can!) so the opposite side is facing down. Trace it lightly again onto the paper. Remove the fin.

Now you should have two mirror images of the fin outline, spaced a little bit (maybe 1/4 inch) apart on the paper. Grab your white glue, put some on the paper inside the silhouette of the fin, and spread it VERY thin... as in as thin as you can get it. It's ok to smear it outside the lines, just make sure EVERYTHING inside the outline is completely coated with a THIN layer of white glue. (you can do both outlines at once or one at a time-- I usually do one at a time because spreading the glue that thin reduces the working time). Stick the fin down inside the outline, press it down firmly, and if you haven't already, go ahead and spread a THIN layer of glue on the other outline, and be sure you get a thin layer on the space between the two outlines as well (over the leading edge). Now, carefully roll the fin and paper over the leading edge and press the other side of the fin down firmly against the glue-coated paper (folding the previously glued paper side over with the fin of course). Now, grab a round cylindrical object (a Sharpie marker works GREAT for this step!) and using it like a rolling pin, starting from the leading edge of the fin near the center, start burnishing the paper down tight to the fin. Basically you're squeezing out all the excess glue, and firmly bonding the paper to the fin. This will remove any wrinkles or air pockets as well (though if you have wrinkles you probably used too much glue-- it's amazing how little glue this actually takes-- just a "big drop" is usually enough for most fins!) Use the sharpie marker like a rolling pin or simply slide the barrel of the pen across the fin, working from the center of the leading edge toward the trailing edge, and out towards the root and tip edges of the fin. Flip the fin and repeat. I use the rounded end of the Sharpie pen to "outline" the fin and burnish the paper down to itself all the way around the fin (other than the leading edge of course which is where the paper folds over) and this basically glues the paper to iself. With scissors, cut out the fin from the paper, about 1/2 inch of paper all the way around it (don't try to cut right to the edge of the fin... let it dry first!) You can usually get at least 2 fins on a sheet of printer paper (depending on size you might get all four!)

Let them dry overnight. Next day, use scissors to trim the fins down to within about 1/4 inch of the edge of the balsa fin cores. Then, using a SHARP hobby knife, carefully trim the paper along the edge of the fin down to the very edge of the balsa wood. This will remove any extra glue that was squeezed out as well. Once the fin has been trimmed of all extra paper, you can do a final "shave" of the fin to remove any stray paper 'hairs'... hold a piece of 220 grit sandpaper down firmly on your work table, and gently draw the fin across it with the tip, trailing, and root edges against the sandpaper, one at a time. Hold the fin at a SLIGHT angle from vertical and draw the fin across the paper toward you a time or two, using light pressure. This will "shave" any remaining paper "hairs" off the edges of the fin along with any stuck on extra glue. Flip and repeat.

This doesn't take much longer to do than it did to type... about maybe 30 minutes or so to paper the fins, and then another 30 minutes or so to cut them out and dress them against the sandpaper. The fins are now ready to glue on the rocket, just like normal. The nice thing is, they're practically bulletproof now, and for VERY VERY little weight gain, and you don't have to fill balsa grain when you're ready to paint... just prime, sand, and paint like you would the rest of the rocket. In addition, folding the paper over the leading edge ensures that it cannot come loose over time from the slipstream of air trying to rip it off during flight...

Once you try it, you'll never go back!

Later and good luck! OL JR :)
 
Contact Estes, chances are they'll send you another complete kit.
 
My advice is to paper the fins. Pop them out of the sheet, sand in any airfoil you desire, then grab a few sheets of regular printer paper and the white glue. Lay the fin with the leading edge toward the center of the paper, about 1/2 inch from the edge of the paper. Hold it down and gently trace around it with a pencil (this gives you a glue application guide). Once traced, CAREFULLY roll the fin over its leading edge (make sure it doesn't slip on the paper if you can!) so the opposite side is facing down. Trace it lightly again onto the paper. Remove the fin.

Once you try it, you'll never go back!

Later and good luck! OL JR :)

Thank you! While I have not specifically looked for it, this is the first time I have see papering explained. Different from the picture I had in my head.
 
Thank you! While I have not specifically looked for it, this is the first time I have see papering explained. Different from the picture I had in my head.

I posted pics of the process in the "Dr. Zooch Vanguard Eagle Beta Build" thread I did awhile back... a quick search should turn it up if you wanna see the pics of the process...

Later! OL JR :)
 
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