Aeropoxy use

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I just received a quart kit of Aeropoxy Es 6209 with caloidal silica for filler to replace Rocketpoxy. I needed something for fillets since Rocketpoxy is no longer available. Can anyone give me advice on how to portion out small amounts? I usually mix about 8 gms. of each (Aeropoxy is also 1-1 mix ratio). Aeropoxy is very thick and trying to pour it out of a pint can with a small spout is almost impossible to get a small amount.
Will warming it up to about 90 degrees F. pour thinner? Is a pump available that will pump this thick stuff?
If anyone remembers STP engine treatment, this stuff is a little thicker than that.
Advice would be greatly appreciated.

@cwbullet Admin, I just realized this was posted in new member area. Would you please move to The watering hole?

edited to add Model number of adhesive.
 
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I just received a quart kit of Aeropoxy with caloidal silica for filler to replace Rocketpoxy. I needed something for fillets since Rocketpoxy is no longer available. Can anyone give me advice on how to portion out small amounts? I usually mix about 8 gms. of each (Aeropoxy is also 1-1 mix ratio). Aeropoxy is very thick and trying to pour it out of a pint can with a small spout is almost impossible to get a small amount.
Will warming it up to about 90 degrees F. pour thinner? Is a pump available that will pump this thick stuff?
If anyone remembers STP engine treatment, this stuff is a little thicker than that.
Advice would be greatly appreciated.
Which specific Aeropoxy did you get? Can you share the model number/type please? I'm assuming this is part of their line that is thicker and not laminating epoxy, correct? It would be helpful to know exactly what you are working with please.
 
I scoop with a craft stick or spoon; usually the stick.
 
Which specific Aeropoxy did you get? Can you share the model number/type please? I'm assuming this is part of their line that is thicker and not laminating epoxy, correct? It would be helpful to know exactly what you are working with please.
Edited original post. Es 6209 is part number.
 
I use condiment squeeze bottles to dispence into 3 oz paper cups (one cup for resin and on cup for hardener). I then reuse the rocketpoxy tubs I have and add the thickener and mix outside while wearing a mask. I use chopsticks to transfer equal amounts to a plastic food container lid and mix. Any extra mixture I place in the freezer to be used with a few days.
 

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I use condiment squeeze bottles to dispence into 3 oz paper cups (one cup for resin and on cup for hardener). I then reuse the rocketpoxy tubs I have and add the thickener and mix outside while wearing a mask. I use chopsticks to transfer equal amounts to a plastic food container lid and mix. Any extra mixture I place in the freezer to be used with a few days.
I second this.

Also, I'll run hot water from the faucet over the outside of the bottles to make it flow a bit easier.
 
I'm using ES6209 with Micro Ballons (3:1). it still "runs" because of the longer cure time and need to elevate the temp. I'm adjusting my application technique to compensate, but I don't think it will ever go on as easy as RocketPoxy. 🤔 :(
 
The mask comment grabbed my attention. Is this because Aeropoxy fumes are harmful?
Nope, because inhaling powered glass is not very good for you! It is very light and can get airborne if you are not careful. A non windy day is also needed. Mix slowly and carefully.
 
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Nope, because inhaling powered glass is not very good for you! It is very light can get airborne if you are not careful. A non windy day is also needed. Mix slowly and carefully.
Thanks, I missed the part about adding in the glass. I'm currently doing CF reinforcement on a build and I take a lot of precautions when applying it and more so when trimming the edges, so I completely appreciate taking care of the lungs!
 
I never thicken ES6209. I find a "fingertip fillet" stands up without thickening and is stronger than the materials being bonded.

When you see people talking about thickening epoxy, it's usually when they're starting with a laminating resin, such as West Systems. Aeropoxy also makes a laminating resin, PR2032, but it's significantly less strong than ES6209 for general bonding.
 
I never thicken ES6209. I find a "fingertip fillet" stands up without thickening and is stronger than the materials being bonded.

When you see people talking about thickening epoxy, it's usually when they're starting with a laminating resin, such as West Systems. Aeropoxy also makes a laminating resin, PR2032, but it's significantly less strong than ES6209 for general bonding.
Hi John, I'm finding is still "runs" even with a "finger" tip size fillet, especially when you put a little heat to it.
 
Hi John, I'm finding is still "runs" even with a "finger" tip size fillet, especially when you put a little heat to it.
Interesting; you're talking about ES6209, right? (That hasn't been my experience working at 70-80℉.)

Out of curiosity, why would you "put a little heat to it"?

Laminates can benefit from an elevated-temperature post-cure, but I'm not sure that general bonding epoxies do. If you do a post-cure, you need to wait longer than any "runny" stage and used a schedule and controlled temperatures.

https://www.ptm-w.com/aeropoxy/aeropoxy-faq.html
Do I Have to Post Cure My AEROPOXY Laminate? Does Post Curing Improve the Performance?

The Aeropoxy laminating [emphasis mine] systems will cure completely at normal room temperature and do not need a post cure to achieve the full properties listed on the literature. However, we always suggest that if you can, post cure the part.

A beneficial aspect of post curing is that the laminate gets to full cure much faster than if allowed to room temperature cure alone. This is especially important if you are on a tight schedule and want to move a laminate around, or remove it from a fixture to make another part. If this were done too soon, with only a partial, insufficient room temperature cure, there could be distortion of the laminate. On the other hand, if the laminate is post cured after a short room temperature cure, it has full properties and can be moved, worked on or assembled without worry of damage or distortion.
 
Interesting; you're talking about ES6209, right? (That hasn't been my experience working at 70-80℉.)

Out of curiosity, why would you "put a little heat to it"?

Laminates can benefit from an elevated-temperature post-cure, but I'm not sure that general bonding epoxies do. If you do a post-cure, you need to wait longer than any "runny" stage and used a schedule and controlled temperatures.

https://www.ptm-w.com/aeropoxy/aeropoxy-faq.html
Do I Have to Post Cure My AEROPOXY Laminate? Does Post Curing Improve the Performance?

The Aeropoxy laminating [emphasis mine] systems will cure completely at normal room temperature and do not need a post cure to achieve the full properties listed on the literature. However, we always suggest that if you can, post cure the part.

A beneficial aspect of post curing is that the laminate gets to full cure much faster than if allowed to room temperature cure alone. This is especially important if you are on a tight schedule and want to move a laminate around, or remove it from a fixture to make another part. If this were done too soon, with only a partial, insufficient room temperature cure, there could be distortion of the laminate. On the other hand, if the laminate is post cured after a short room temperature cure, it has full properties and can be moved, worked on or assembled without worry of damage or distortion.

Yes, structural ES6209, compared to Rocket Poxy it "runs". NOT talking about their PR2032/PH3660 laminating system.

Why some heat? Other than decreasing cure time a few hours. I'm working in a garage that is 60-65F in the winter, when the min curing temp is 75F. If I don't bring the temp up in and around the curing epoxy it takes more than 18-24 hours documented in the specs, a bad thing. 😉 https://www.ptm-w.com/aeropoxy/AERO...18 to 24 hours,75oF, or 2 to 3 hours at 140oF.
 
I second this.

Also, I'll run hot water from the faucet over the outside of the bottles to make it flow a bit easier.
I do something similar. I stand the squeeze bottles of epoxy in a bucket of hot water for about 10 minutes.
 
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