Adept22 - What could be going wrong?

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gdiscenza

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I got my first altimeter in May, the Adept22.

I spent some time teaching myself the basics, using a Tupperware vacuum chamber and old Christmas lights in place of igniters. Everything seemed to work as expected, so I installed it in my Das Blitzkrieg.

According to the documentation, the existing vent holes should have been sufficient, but when the rocket flew, the only event was from the CTI default ejection charge after 14 seconds. The rocket was undamaged, but the Adept22 was still trilling the waiting to launch beep tone.

I assumed the vent holes were not large enough, so I drilled 3 1/8" holes around the av bay, and launched it again.

Once again, the altimeter failed to detect launch, and this time, the nose cone got a big chunk of PVC knocked out of it. I talked to several people at the site, and they all said the venting was enough.

Did I just get a bad unit?

G.D.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
 
Did u have a new battery? Did u do ground test w correct amount if bp? Gotta ask basocs first.
 
Battery was brand new each launch, I ground tested the bp charges, and they would have worked if the altimeter had detected launch.

When I got to the rocket after it hit, the altimeter was still chirping the "waiting for launch" signal. It never registered launch, and never even tried to fire the charges.

The only thing I have not done is an all-up ground test, since I'm uncomfortable with simulating a full launch on the ground and having both the apogee and main events happen in such quick succession. I have simulated both events separately, with a Christmas light on the unused charge port, and it all worked.

The only thing that is different in practice is that the motor I am using is only taking the rocket to about 1350 feet, and the ground tests I've done indicate between 4K and 9K feet at "apogee"

I'm at a loss. What could the manufacturer do for me? Am I just out $40 if I choose to just abandon this thing and buy a SL100 or RRC2-Mini?

G.D.
 
Sounds like you got a bad unit. 1/8" holes ought to be plenty big for a rocket that size. I have the same alt and have flown it by itself several times. Even if the ematches are bad it ought to at least detect launch. Get a hold of Adept and see what they say.
 
I bought 2 of them around the same time you did. I have only flown of them but, it has 3 flights on it. All three flights were flawless! I use 3 to 4 holes to vent the alt bay.

JD
 
I can answer this! Twist and tuck!

This way The switch can't fail!:D:D:D:D

Eric

Close! Twist and tape! Use the multi-tool to thoroughly twist the leads together, then tape the leads to the rocket body with masking tape.

G.D.
 
rules that out then.....any other areas of the circuit that could possibly be causing the altimeter to be reset during flight/acceleration?
 
Close! Twist and tape! Use the multi-tool to thoroughly twist the leads together, then tape the leads to the rocket body with masking tape.

Good. :)

Since the rocket failed to detect launch, the altimeter was still armed. If "twist and tuck" had been used, it would have been difficult to disarm the altimeter without risking setting it off. "Twist and tape" is a much better idea since it leaves the "switch" available to disable the altimeter.

-- Roger
 
Have you contacted Adept?

Bob

I had the exact same thing happen to me at LDRS this year. I was pressed for time and didn't get a chance to test the altimeter. The CTI motor eject got the chute out late and the rocket came in under drouge.

I contacted Adept and they had me send the altimeter back. They found a cracked surface mount component that prevented the altimeter from detecting liftoff. Sent out a new one right away.

Contact Adept -- They'll take care of you.

RandyL
 
Did the rocket travel at least 300 feet?

Edit: "...the only event was from the CTI default ejection charge after 14 seconds. The rocket was undamaged, ..." - Oh, I guess that means it must have flown more than 300 feet. :)

-- Roger
 
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I went through every connection, and they were all tight. I cannot find any point of failure in the wiring.

I will do another vacuum chamber test tomorrow, and we'll see what happens.

G.D.
 
I went through every connection, and they were all tight. I cannot find any point of failure in the wiring.

I will do another vacuum chamber test tomorrow, and we'll see what happens.

G.D.

Greg Send it back to Tommy, Let him check it out!
He's a good man and he'll gladly take a look!

Eric
 
I also twist the wires on the outside but, I tape them to the payload section above the "switch band". That way if I have to disarm due to unforeseen reasons; I can power down the altimeter without much effort.

If you do send it back;
even if you put a scratch on the board Adept, won't warranty it at all!



JD
 
A friend of mine had the same thing happen at LDRS this year. He called and/or emailed Adept. They had him return the unit and they found a problem chip. Adept replaced it immediately and he has had a few flights on the new altimeter and it has worked perfectly.

BTW, I had a chunk come out of my Blitzzkrieg nosecone on an otherwise picture perfect flight. I think this is an inherent weakness the type of plastic Eric is using for the nosecones. I got a new one and am filling it with foam to help combat the issue. I am finishing it now, we'll see how it works.

I got my first altimeter in May, the Adept22.

I spent some time teaching myself the basics, using a Tupperware vacuum chamber and old Christmas lights in place of igniters. Everything seemed to work as expected, so I installed it in my Das Blitzkrieg.

According to the documentation, the existing vent holes should have been sufficient, but when the rocket flew, the only event was from the CTI default ejection charge after 14 seconds. The rocket was undamaged, but the Adept22 was still trilling the waiting to launch beep tone.

I assumed the vent holes were not large enough, so I drilled 3 1/8" holes around the av bay, and launched it again.

Once again, the altimeter failed to detect launch, and this time, the nose cone got a big chunk of PVC knocked out of it. I talked to several people at the site, and they all said the venting was enough.

Did I just get a bad unit?

G.D.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
 
WHY DIDN"T YOU CONTACT ME??

I have not had this problem, but I would have replaced it anyway??
Inherent weakness?? WTF?? You know me better than that!

Eric
 
WHY DIDN"T YOU CONTACT ME??

I have not had this problem, but I would have replaced it anyway??
Inherent weakness?? WTF?? You know me better than that!

Eric

Eric, I didn't have a need to contact you as there was a second nosecone (shorter one) already provided. I don't believe it is a bad design, the nosecone plastic just cracks easily. It probably hit the fin or body tube edge upon deployment. Although you could get paint chipping, a polystyrene cone would more than likely bend and absorb the shock. In the case of the Blitzzkrieg nosecone it cracked leaving a 3"x1" hole. Not an unhappy customer though (just bought a White Wizard in fact). I just chalk it up to a learning experience for me as the kit has many new parts and techniques.
 
Eric, I didn't have a need to contact you as there was a second nosecone (shorter one) already provided. I don't believe it is a bad design, the nosecone plastic just cracks easily. It probably hit the fin or body tube edge upon deployment. Although you could get paint chipping, a polystyrene cone would more than likely bend and absorb the shock. In the case of the Blitzzkrieg nosecone it cracked leaving a 3"x1" hole. Not an unhappy customer though (just bought a White Wizard in fact). I just chalk it up to a learning experience for me as the kit has many new parts and techniques.

I know, I thank you for that! I'm just saying the plastic should be more than strong enough for the job. I would gladly send you a new one. Not a flaw in the plastic, it's done quite well, just took a hard hit somewhere. Foam will help, The only Nosecone I bust was after a no deploy from 8k! Foam would have saved the NC.
 
Update:

I sent the altimeter back to Tommy @ Adept. He tested it thoroughly, and noticed something strange about my battery. Without a load it was showing just under 9V, but with a 750 Ohm load, the voltage dropped to about ~ 7ish Volts. Just an average Duracell from a Costco bulk pack. This thing would test fine with Christmas lights, but when it came time to fire an ejection charge, the voltage drop would be enough to reset the processor and the charge would not fire.
Well, I got my testing tools out, and grabbed the last two batteries in the pack, and whaddaya know, they both showed the same crap! 8.8V without load, but just over 7V with a 750 Ohm load! :jaw:

Since Tommy tested the Alt to the point of forced failure, he will be shipping me a replacement Adept22, once he gets some pretty pictures of my sled layout.

The responsiveness and attention to detail that Adept has shown over a $40 altimeter is phenomenal, I would have no reservations at all sending future business his way.

I'm just happy to know that I'll soon have a working altimeter (with an Energizer battery) and I will be able to finally have a successful DD flight!

G.D.
 
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Update:

I sent the altimeter back to Tommy @ Adept. He tested it thoroughly, and noticed something strange about my battery. Without a load it was showing just under 9V, but with a 1 Ohm load, the voltage dropped to about ~ 7ish Volts. Just an average Duracell from a Costco bulk pack. This thing would test fine with Christmas lights, but when it came time to fire an ejection charge, the voltage drop would be enough to reset the processor and the charge would not fire.
Well, I got my testing tools out, and grabbed the last two batteries in the pack, and whaddaya know, they both showed the same crap! 8.8V without load, but just over 7V with a 1 Ohm load! :jaw:

Since Tommy tested the Alt to the point of forced failure, he will be shipping me a replacement Adept22, once he gets some pretty pictures of my sled layout.

The responsiveness and attention to detail that Adept has shown over a $40 altimeter is phenomenal, I would have no reservations at all sending future business his way.

I'm just happy to know that I'll soon have a working altimeter (with an Energizer battery) and I will be able to finally have a successful DD flight!

G.D.

Told Ya! Tommy is a Straight Shooter!!:D:D
 
Well, I got my testing tools out, and grabbed the last two batteries in the pack, and whaddaya know, they both showed the same crap! 8.8V without load, but just over 7V with a 1 Ohm load! :jaw:
That is utterly normal for a good alkaline 9V battery.
 
Twist and Tuck.......the best method......been using it since 1996 with the Adept electronic's.......no problems with any unit(s) I have from Adept. Tommy is great to work with, has always been that way....he will make it right if there was/is a problem with the unit


Preston
 

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