Adept DD22 wiring question(s)

[Spooks]

I just got in my Adept22 DD altimeter, and looking at what they have available on the website and what is recommended, I am not sure what I should do first/next.

I have built a ton of computers, and worked on some wiring, so I am not unfamiliar with those steps really, but I want to make the right choices and get what I need and try not to complicate things.

What is best recommended for the wiring for both charges, and for the battery?

Also, I was trying to look online and search here for a switch, I would like to be able to switch it on at the pad without having to remove a cover or anythng like that. Would prefer to use a pin or something to reach in to push a toggle/button/something...

Any and all suggestions are welcome!!

Thanks in advance!!

 

[jpummil]

I wired mine per the diagram on their web site and it worked flawlessly.

 

[awseiger]

A few things I learned while setting up mine (and loosing it shortly afterwards):

If you are proficient at soldering, solder your connections to a header pin that fits into the screw terminals. This makes swapping the altimeter very easy.

Have a way of arming AND disarming on the pad. I made the mistake of using a paddle switch that I pushed with a coat hanger. You think you would only have to arm. However, when your motor fails to light, and disarming your charges involves complete disassembly of your rocket, it's a bit edgy and just not a good idea.

To arm/disarm, go to radio-shack and get an 1/8in audio jack with the "insertion switch". You'll have to look around for it, but there's a little piece of metal that remains contacted when there is no plug in, but then becomes disconnected when the audio jack is inserted. Thus, to arm and disarm, all you need is an 1/8in stereo jack. Also doubles as an Equalization port!

If you have any questions on the above, I can PM you (or post here) with some pictures of what I'm talking about. The radio shack people tend to not know what you mean when you ask for "1/8in stereo jack with switch", so it's good to know what you're looking for.

 

[Spooks]

Thats a damn good idea for the switch! What wiring harness or type of wires did you guys use? They have some on Adept that look to do the job just fine, I want this to go right so I may have to ask 20 questions.

Thanks!!

 

[cwbullet]

The charges and altimeter use a common positive that is switched. It also turns on your altimeter. The firing is done by the negative or ground Provided by the altimeter.

 

[awseiger]

The charges and altimeter use a common positive that is switched. It also turns on your altimeter. The firing is done by the negative or ground Provided by the altimeter.

The instructions that came with your Altimeter *should* have a wiring diagram printed on them. It's fairly straightforward.

For wire, I just used small-gauge speaker wire. Doesn't have to be fancy, just has to work. I would stay away from solid core wire. After repeated use it could break, especially in the vibration-full environment of a rocket airframe.

And for attaching your charges to the bulkheads, check out the binding posts Radio Shack sells. They make for a nice tool-less attachment/detachment of charge wires.

 

[DAllen]

Thats a damn good idea for the switch! What wiring harness or type of wires did you guys use? They have some on Adept that look to do the job just fine, I want this to go right so I may have to ask 20 questions.

Thanks!!

I've used the 1/8" jack pins and personally I hate 'em but a lot of people like them so that's just a personal preference thing. I go for the ultra simple method - twist 2 wires together for the switch and tape on the side of the rocket. Sometimes I don't even strip the wires to twist together until I get to the pad. If it's taped to the side then to disarm it's just a matter of pulling up said tape and untwisting the wires. To me, a switch is just more connections to solder and have fail at some point.

 

[dixontj93060]

To arm/disarm, go to radio-shack and get an 1/8in audio jack with the "insertion switch". You'll have to look around for it, but there's a little piece of metal that remains contacted when there is no plug in, but then becomes disconnected when the audio jack is inserted. Thus, to arm and disarm, all you need is an 1/8in stereo jack. Also doubles as an Equalization port!

Dave B. mentions some hate audio jacks, some love them. I am of the second variety and use them on occasion, but you really need to be careful how you use them. They are great for implementing a "manual" breakwire and/or a shunt through the plug that is pulled/opened before launch. The description above where you use the audio plug to make a power connection can prove problematic. This is because the contact force for the audio plugs is fairly light compared to a typical higher amp switch. The shaking and gee forces can make/break the contact intermittently, thus iffy for power. If you have an altimeter that has a separate on/off switch that is read by a microprocessor then ignored after lift off, you may be able to use the audio plug, but if the on/off contacts are just an extension of the battery feed to the rest of the board, again beware.

 

[DJDeadParrot]

Count me as another flyer that used to use photo jack plugs for switches. Reading dixontj's post sure rang a bell for me as that's as likely an explanation as any as to why none my my jacks would last more than 2 flights.

Twist and tape for me now. Of course, doing so meant expanding the port hole to compensate for the wires eating up some of the diameter.

 

[awseiger]

I should point out I bent mine closer together and added a bit of "squeeze" force to the pin...

What about those screw switches? I can't see how you could go wrong with that.

 

[DAllen]

Screw switches I do like. I had an application that necessitated them on a rather odd ebay I built once where the twist and tuck would not work. The (VERY SMALL) screw switches I got from Featherweight are great and worth the $$$.

 

[Spooks]

Ok, I think I am heading in the right direction...sorta...

Once I get what I (think) I am gonna use I'll post back

Screw switches, really?

How do they work?

 

[cwbullet]

Ok, I think I am heading in the right direction...sorta...

Once I get what I (think) I am gonna use I'll post back

Screw switches, really?

How do they work?

You tighten the screw and it completes the circuit.

They also have magnetic switches.

 

[Coop]

I used the magnetic switch for mine. Toughest thing there was figuring the switch's position --easily remedied by indexing the av-bay, and aligning the magnetic switches with fins I and III.


Later!

--Coop