54 mm Hardware

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Atari Frank

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I have the cti pro 54mm hardware setup and was thinking about getting some amw 54mm hardware or rouse tec hardware.my question is it worth buying the amw snap ring hardware or is this a thing of the past?
 
AMW still makes hardware (idk of anyone who carries the reloads anymore) but you can get reloads from CTI in AMW snap ring hardware. They are at the bottom of this page:

https://pro38.com/products/pro54/motor.php

Aerotech makes a few motors for the 54/2550 as well. I personally like the CTI stuff. I'd probably only pick up some AMW stuff if I start doing EX
 
Yea, Gorilla based on reload availability. And if you find an AMW load you can use it in the Gorilla case. Ken at Performance Hobbies still has alot of AMW reloads in stock and you just cant beat the AMW/ProX or the KBA loads for price.
 
So should I get gorilla hardware or amw hardware? I want to play around with the snap ring hardware just to do something different. All these loads all work with same hardware (KBA. CTI FOR AMW. GORILLA)?
 
I know AMW hardware is scarce, I think Performance has some left. The Gorilla is readily available.
 
I was doing some reading and it looks like i have to watch what motor nozzle i use between these different reloads, Maybe if i go with the gorilla hardware, i will stick with the gorilla reloads till i get the hang of things just to be safe.
 
I was doing some reading and it looks like i have to watch what motor nozzle i use between these different reloads,
I don't where you read that but it is true. Gorilla aluminum cases are identical to AMW but the forward closures and/or nozzles may be slightly different. I have that information on my website too.

https://www.gorillarocketmotors.com/compatibility.php


Maybe if i go with the gorilla hardware, i will stick with the gorilla reloads till i get the hang of things just to be safe.
Great decision. Email me with what you need.
 
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I was doing some reading and it looks like i have to watch what motor nozzle i use between these different reloads, Maybe if i go with the gorilla hardware, i will stick with the gorilla reloads till i get the hang of things just to be safe.

I'd recommend Gorilla hardware. The reloads are easier to get and the hardware is very high quality. My first Gorilla motor was a J607WC for my L2 cert flight and it was awesome!
 
Nobody mentioned research motors?

You can make your own reloads for Aerotech cases, but the vast majority of research motors are made for the snap ring cases.
 
How much of money does it cost to get into making your own motors? Plus i,m not that advanced yet for research motors,but was thinking somewhere down the line because them m motors look like some tall cash.
 
Solid M motors are not cheap. Hybrids are more reasonable and a lot easier than research motors. But... you will need your own GSE which ballparks around $1000 but you can sell used GSE when your done but you can't sell used AP reloads.
 
Solid M motors are not cheap. Hybrids are more reasonable and a lot easier than research motors. But... you will need your own GSE which ballparks around $1000 but you can sell used GSE when your done but you can't sell used AP reloads.


used AP reload???

Also, average research "M" load....100$
 
Gorilla makes good casings. The nice thing about a manufactered comemrcial casing is you can use it for exp and comercial motors.
 
How much of money does it cost to get into making your own motors? Plus i,m not that advanced yet for research motors,but was thinking somewhere down the line because them m motors look like some tall cash.

You may or may not break even if you decide to go into research compared to buying commercial, depending on the motor size and frequency of your flying. It is true that you can buy the chemicals that go into a specific reload for less, but when you factor in the startup costs, static burns to test/characterize fuel, and the fact that you are not covered by a warranty if your case CATO's, etc.... are some of the reasons that EX is generally not a money saving proposition
 
used AP reload???

Also, average research "M" load....100$

Very basic white motors will run you about $60 for five grains, more advanced stuff could be up in the hundred area, but a friend made a 6 grain N for around $130

Realize of course this isn't the price you'll end up paying overall, the startup cost is a bit hefty, but worth it. Anyone can make motors, but you have to be 18 and L2 to fly them at a Tripoli launch, and good luck finding a research launch that isn't Tripoli sanctioned, or doesn't follow Tripoli standards



Braden
 
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Hmm... let's see, burnt up liner, some crusty o-rings, and depending on brand, a nozzle.
 
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So as I understand it,

You can use gorilla motors in an amw case, but you need to swap out the nozel and bulkhead.
 
I came home from work today and there was a package at the front door from Tim the wildman,A brand new 54/1050 Gorilla motor,my first snap ring motor.
 
AMW is alive and well, hardware is readily available through Robert. Classic reloads are most definitely NOT dead, they WILL be back.


J
 
cwbullet said:
So as I understand it,

You can use gorilla motors in an amw case, but you need to swap out the nozel and bulkhead.

Better late than never here......

There always seems to be some confusion on this, and I didn't see anyone mention it but the same holds true for all Loki Research 76mm and 54mm reloads.
You can use ANY Loki Research 54mm or 76mm reload in either an AMW or Gorilla equivalent case, provided you use a Loki Nozzle, Loki Forward Bulkhead, and Loki Nozzle Washer. See the attachment from Paul Holmes. The only thing that changes from using a full Loki hardware set is the case.

These three items are sold as Conversion Kits and are on the Loki website. Conversion Kit Prices are valid only when you buy one or more Loki Research reloads for that size case. Individual item prices apply otherwise. This saves you $28 on the 54mm parts and between $40-$53 on the 76mm. (different nozzle prices) If your local dealer does not have these kits, nag on him for me please. ;)

I know there will be a few out there who don't know this, but a Loki 54/1200 is the same as an AMW or Gorilla 54/1050 case.
54/2000 = 54/1750
54/2800 = 54/2550
76/3600 = 75/3500
76/6000 = 75/6000
76/8000 = 75/7600

Why the difference? Well one of the reasons is, when Jeff came out with the hardware, his design allowed room for more propellant and thus more total Ns in the same size case. This may not be true in every single instance, but just about. Go to www.thrustcurve.org and compare equivalent propellant type loads in the same length case.

So, you can get more bang for your buck with Loki hardware and reloads, and that goes for EX hardware use too. The best example of this is the awesome Loki M-3000.




Now the only caveat is the "NEW" Loki 54/2800 case and the Gorilla 54/2550 case. I have spoken with Jim about this and he knows I am not trying to throw him under the bus. I'm only trying to prevent potential mishaps by informing and educating the end user.

As many now know, the NEW Loki 54mm and 76mm hardware was made by the maker of Gorilla hardware. These cases had already been previously machined for Jim's use. What I did not realize is that the end margin on Gorilla 54/2550 cases is shorter than Loki 2800 and AMW 2550 cases. The end margin is the distance between the end of the case and the beginning of the snap ring groove. All AMW 54/2550 and older Loki 54/2800 cases have an end margin of 0.25". All shorter Loki and AMW 54mm cases have an end margin of 0.20". What I now know is that ALL Gorilla 54mm cases have a snap ring end margin of 0.20”, including the 54/2550.

On these new Loki 54/2800 cases, there is an extra 0.1" between the snap rings over what the old cases have. I have marked these cases with a file on the forward end of the case to identify them. Loki liners are usually cut 0.0625" to 0.125" short to make it easier to get the last snap ring in place. This means that on the ten 54/2800 cases I have, or on any Loki load used in a Gorilla 54/2550 case, there could be as much as 0.225" of liner/bulkhead engagement lost, leaving only 0.11" of liner going over the bulkhead shoulder. Again, this will only be noticed when using a Loki reload in a new “marked” Loki 54/2800 case, or a green Gorilla 54/2550 case.

Should this cause a problem? No. Could it cause a problem? Yes. It is entirely possible to get a burn through at the forward bulkhead if the liner is not properly seated or engaged into the bulkhead shoulder.

The Fix. Simply place an extra nozzle washer on top of the forward bulkhead. This will keep the bulkhead properly seated down into the liner. It’s that easy.
Keep the above fix in mind when using Loki reloads in a Gorilla 54/2550 case or new Loki 54/2800 cases. It isn't a bad idea to do this ANY time you have a big enough gap. At this time, I only know of one person who has a NEW Loki 54/2800 case and they are aware of the difference. When I get new 54/2800 cases made they will be made with a 0.25” snap ring end margin. I'll then decide what to do with the other ones I have.
 
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Good information, Scott!

The Fix. Simply place an extra nozzle washer on top of the forward bulkhead. This will keep the bulkhead properly seated down into the liner. It’s that easy.

Gotta like a quick, simple fix that like. Especially since it's an inexpensive fix, as well, and one that anyone can do without fear of doing it wrong.

-Kevin
 
Scott, The greatest part about that was that you had just loaded a motor and discovered that error right before I bought my 54/2800 hardware. It was nice to have the manufacturer onsite and able to show you the issue and how to fix it instead of some of the problems acouple of my friends had with new loads from other manufactures that nobody on the rocket pasture had seen or had a clue about. Thanks again!
 
The ones to get are from Knipex sold by McMaster:
0.090 tips
https://www.mcmaster.com/#5449A93 are the straight tips
https://www.mcmaster.com/#5449A97 90 degree tips.
They will cover you from 40-100mm.


If you want ones for 38mm go with the 0.070" tips
https://www.mcmaster.com/#5449A92
https://www.mcmaster.com/#5449A96


I prefer the straight tips and bought 2 pairs of both sizes; one for the range box and one to have around the house.
That way I can't forget to put them back.


JD


I was going to go to sears to buy a pair,I don't want a cheap pair,do you guys have any suggestions?
 
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