What are you using for primer these days?

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JeromeK99

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I finally ran out of the various primers I had been using so I went to buy some more. Seems most of the primers have gone the way of the Dodo! I went to Walmart, Lowes and Home Depot. The new trend seems to be these all-in-one "Paint & Primer" deals... well I want primer! Most of the actual "primers" were gray only and for metal. I wanted white and the only one I found was this Valspar stuff at Lowes. After two weeks in my hot garage, it is still off-gasing... :shock: I can still smell it.

What are you folks using?


Jerome
 
Rusto 2-in-1 Filler and sandable primer. Find it at Lowe's.
 
Rustoleum Automotive Primer (grey) and Rustoleum 2X Primer (white)

Both available at Lowes and Wal Mart.
 
+1 on the Duplicolor Filler Primer. Its a laquer, so you can recoat or topcoat at any time. If you don't lay it down crazy thick, it can be sanded and/or topcoated in well under an hour. None of that stoopid outgassing & soft easy to damage finish you get for a week with the current enamels (and does not get soft if it gets hot later like an enamel). Dang it, I want all those rattle can laquer colors back....

Just bought some from Amazon in 6-packs, & free shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3UYSUE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B36BMNY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Dunno if there is a difference between these other than 1oz, but I thought I'd find out.
 
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Don't bother with the "all in one" paint/primers either.... total crap.

Later! OL JR :)

But i will say that the Rusto ultra-cover 2x paint is very good for a cheap paint job if you use it on a nicely primed surface. I wouldn't rely on the "primer" in the paint to help on unprimed surfaces.
 
+2 on the Duplicolor Filler Primer.
It's at the auto supply stores. Be sure you get the Filler / Primer.
 
+1 on the Duplicolor Filler Primer. "Its a laquer"

+2

I am not sure that it is considered a lacquer though. I don't know enough on the topic but I use it and it is described as a "Mastic" primer on the can and I don't recall reading lacquer in the description or their site, and I looked. I did find the Material Safety Data Sheet but it's all Greek to me. I suppose it's possible that it is a mastic based lacquer or they may be mutually exclusive? I was wondering this myself as I am switching from the Dupli-color enamel cans to their lacquer 123 system which requires a spray gun, and I wanted to continue using it for it filling properties. Perhaps someone will shed some light on it?
 
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Duplicolor high build filler primer in the rattle can for smaller jobs. For big rockets, I've been using the (very expensive) Duplicolor Paint Shop primer through an HVLP sprayer.
 
I switched over to the Duplicolor Paint Shop Finish System, so I use their Primer, which is lacquer like all the rest of the paints in the system.

It's supposed to be ready to shoot. Ha ha. I've had to thin it 2 parts primer to 1 part thinner. But at that, it lays down beautifully.

I will never go back to rattle cans. OMG. $40 for a cheap Harbor Freight HPLV gun and results that are amazing!


All the best, James
 
It's supposed to be ready to shoot. Ha ha. I've had to thin it 2 parts primer to 1 part thinner. But at that, it lays down beautifully.

$40 for a cheap Harbor Freight HPLV gun and results that are amazing!

I did not need to thin it - were you having problems that caused you to thin it? I spray at around 30psi minimum, nice fine mist that covers well.

My cheap HF head was only $16 on sale, so I bought two of them back in December! As long as you clean them immediately, they work great.
 
But i will say that the Rusto ultra-cover 2x paint is very good for a cheap paint job if you use it on a nicely primed surface. I wouldn't rely on the "primer" in the paint to help on unprimed surfaces.

It really covers nicely. Also if you are painting a scaled rocket like the SV or S1B you are better off using something like Duplicolor that comes out in a finer mist. The 2x paint will more than likely fill in all the finer details on the wraps etc...
 
Rusto 2-in-1 Filler and sandable primer. Find it at Lowe's.
Yes, that's great stuff (#260510). Home Depot has Rusto Filler Primer (#249279) which is also great and slightly cheaper. Home Depot only offers #260510 by the case and only by site to store. Over either of those I then use Rusto 2x Flat White Primer (#249058) for light colors.
 
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I switched over to the Duplicolor Paint Shop Finish System, so I use their Primer, which is lacquer like all the rest of the paints in the system.

It's supposed to be ready to shoot. Ha ha. I've had to thin it 2 parts primer to 1 part thinner. But at that, it lays down beautifully.

I will never go back to rattle cans. OMG. $40 for a cheap Harbor Freight HPLV gun and results that are amazing!


All the best, James

I've been wondering about going this way as well. The HVLP route looks good, and the Paint Shop laquers very nice, with reasonable cost. The thing I have not figured out is how much air compressor is really needed, and what the real "total" cost of a paint system would be. The $17 gun says it needs 6CFM at 40 psi, while their "pro" series guns say 12 CFM @ 43psi (for the same size gun). Presumably you need an oilless compressor to avoid contaminating the paint. What are you using? Its hard to find an affordable compressor that even gets close to 6CFM @ 40psi. HF's 6 gal/1.5HP compressor only does 3.4 CFM @40psi. They do have a 17gal/1.8HP that could just keep up with 6 CFM@40psi, but of course is more $. Are you just spraying a small area, then waiting for the tank to pump back up, or using some large compressor?
 
I did not need to thin it - were you having problems that caused you to thin it? I spray at around 30psi minimum, nice fine mist that covers well.

My cheap HF head was only $16 on sale, so I bought two of them back in December! As long as you clean them immediately, they work great.

Weeellll....I'm not sure. It just came out in globs and splatters no matter which way I adjusted it. I was at ~25 psi IIRC, and finally, when I resorted to thinning, it laid down like silk. Maybe it was too thick from the factory? <shrugs> It's entirely possible that I am clueless about how to adjust a spray gun.

I've been wondering about going this way as well. The HVLP route looks good, and the Paint Shop laquers very nice, with reasonable cost. The thing I have not figured out is how much air compressor is really needed, and what the real "total" cost of a paint system would be. The $17 gun says it needs 6CFM at 40 psi, while their "pro" series guns say 12 CFM @ 43psi (for the same size gun). Presumably you need an oilless compressor to avoid contaminating the paint. What are you using? Its hard to find an affordable compressor that even gets close to 6CFM @ 40psi. HF's 6 gal/1.5HP compressor only does 3.4 CFM @40psi. They do have a 17gal/1.8HP that could just keep up with 6 CFM@40psi, but of course is more $. Are you just spraying a small area, then waiting for the tank to pump back up, or using some large compressor?

Here's what we have:

Compressor1.jpg



Ze label:

Compressor2.jpg



Our gun says 11 cfm @ 30 psi, and with this, we get in couple of minutes spraying before it starts up. I run the tank regulator at 80 psi, the gun regulator at 25. The compressor will run until we're done with single coat for a 80" tall rocket; for that single coat, (lack of) air pressure never forces us to stop painting.


Compressor3.jpg


Here's our gun. It came with the regulator attached. I picked up the oil & water filter at Lowe's for $9 IIRC.


Here's the gun in operation in our $16 paint booth.

JanetPainting.jpg


Another $8 for a Lazy Susan ball bearing, and some scrap particleboard, built us the painting turntable, which makes it simple to paint without dancing around the rocket.


All the best, James
 
Weeellll....I'm not sure. It just came out in globs and splatters no matter which way I adjusted it. I was at ~25 psi IIRC, and finally, when I resorted to thinning, it laid down like silk. Maybe it was too thick from the factory? <shrugs> It's entirely possible that I am clueless about how to adjust a spray gun.
Did you strain it thought cheesecloth or equivalent? There is a lot of particulate matter in this paint, so even after a good stir/shake it needs to be strained.
 
Yep, strained it, it poured in nice and smoooooooth.

We will probably shelve this cheapo gun and invest in a DeVilbiss, that would make things much more reliable I'd think.

All the best, James
 
When that happens on my airbrush, it's usually because the needle is dirty or shot. I've yet to figure out how to remove the needle on the HF HVLP head though...
 
I've been wondering about going this way as well. The HVLP route looks good, and the Paint Shop laquers very nice, with reasonable cost. The thing I have not figured out is how much air compressor is really needed, and what the real "total" cost of a paint system would be. The $17 gun says it needs 6CFM at 40 psi, while their "pro" series guns say 12 CFM @ 43psi (for the same size gun). Presumably you need an oilless compressor to avoid contaminating the paint. What are you using? Its hard to find an affordable compressor that even gets close to 6CFM @ 40psi. HF's 6 gal/1.5HP compressor only does 3.4 CFM @40psi. They do have a 17gal/1.8HP that could just keep up with 6 CFM@40psi, but of course is more $. Are you just spraying a small area, then waiting for the tank to pump back up, or using some large compressor?

Avoid oilless compressors like the plague... they're cheaper, but they have a VERY limited useful life... A good oil-type belt-driven compressor, on the other hand, can last for decades, even a lifetime, if properly maintained (change or clean the filters and change the oil occasionally and keep an eye on the oil levels regularly).

ANY compressor can "contaminate the air" with moisture. Oil isn't a problem anyway. Moisture is. Any time air is compressed and then expands going through the valves and lines, the water in it will condense and work its way down the hose to the spray gun. When the mist blows out with the paint, it will really mess up the finish.

To avoid it, be sure you pick up one of those cheap filter/dryer setups from Harbor Freight and plumb it into your system between the compressor and the gun. It's also a good idea to get those disposable inline air filters that screw onto the base of your gun, where the air line goes into the gun... it will catch ANY stray moisture that might form in the hose or air couplers between the filter dryer and the actual gun air inlet. They're cheap and can be used for a pretty long time before needing replaced.

Of course a cheap regulator is also necessary to dial in the pressure where you want it. It's best to have the regulator as close as possible to the gun itself, but attaching it to the gun is unwieldy, so usually it's a combination unit with the filter/dryer (at least the one I have from Harbor Freight is).

You don't have to have TONS of air to spray paint... especially with the HVLP guns... if you get a detail gun, which is much smaller, you can use a pretty darn small compressor.

When it comes to compressors, you'd do MUCH better with a USED oil-type compressor than a NEW oilless one... the oilless compressors simply don't hold up. They're cheap and made for light duty, like airing up tires and balls and such... they're also not really made for "continuous duty cycle" jobs like painting, that is, jobs that use air continuously. They're more for "intermittent duty cycle" jobs...

Later! OL JR :)
 
I was buying the Krylon Colormaster White Primer at Walmart up until late last year. My local stores haven't had it in a very long time now.


Jerome
 
I use and swear by the Rusto 2-in-1 Filler and Sandable Primer. Bought and used a few cans of the 2X White primer, didnt like it much even though it helps to brighten colors.
 
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