Bright metal finish spray paints

I recently painted 2 "Phoenix" rockets (scratch builds from recovered parts) in Rustoleum chrome look paint as an experiment before using it on a more important rocket that's supposed to look like razor blades are sticking out of the body. I'm overall happy with the results, and it does indeed look like it's bare metal, but it has tiny spots that make it look almost like the metal has water spots on it. This shows up on the plastic, cardboard, and wood. If anybody knows what I might to do eliminate those, I'd love to hear it. Otherwise, I guess my razors will just be "previously wet"

Is this a sort of hazy aftereffect? That might actually buff off? I had this terrible hazing problem using the X Metals paints and just plain refuse to use them anymore. Sure looked good when it was wet.

Hmmm, I'll try the buffing and see what it does. They are very tiny pinhole spots that just show up a little darker and duller than the rest of it. Honestly, you can't even see it 10 feet away, and the launch pad is 15 feet away anyway, right?

fwiw mine looked horrible when it was wet, like it was cracked all over, but I had read that this stuff looks like that for the first 15 minutes or so. The cracks went away and the light spots showed up right afterwards.

Now I'm getting the notion that neither of these "metal" looking paints are adequate for rockets or other wood finishes. X Metals paint is a Krylon product and it dried with a haze like a white overspray or something. The color was soooo awesome but the finished result was anything but. Maybe it was humid that day, I'm really not sure. I ended up covering it up.

I have used Krylon X Metals successfully not on a rocket but on my son's computer case--finish for the purple color was awesome!

That haze could be humidity related.

I've rarely (if ever) been happy with the "metal" look from a spray paint, especially once it's been clear-coated. I have heard wonderful things about the Alclad (Alcad?) airbrush paints for models, from those that know how to use them. For my own usage, I've resorted to automotive decal films and trim Monokote.

The Rustoleum I used said on the instructions that a clear coat was not recommended for "bright coat" finishes. Not sure about other brands. Anyway, thanks for the comments. It looks like I got it as good as it will be, which is good enough for a 20/20 rocket (looks good at least 20 feet away and moving at least 20 mph)

Gary Byrum said:

Now I'm getting the notion that neither of these "metal" looking paints are adequate for rockets or other wood finishes. X Metals paint is a Krylon product and it dried with a haze like a white overspray or something. The color was soooo awesome but the finished result was anything but. Maybe it was humid that day, I'm really not sure. I ended up covering it up.

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Gery:
The reason Kryon X-metals didn't come out the way you thought they should was YOU obviously didn't read the instructions ON THE CAN.
Use of Krylon X-Metals MUST either be over chrome or shiny real metal surface OR applied over Krylons X-Metal conversion coating. This conversion coating is sort of a metallic reflective base coating. Kryon Conversion coating is #2300.

Please don't bad mouth a perfectly good product just because you didn't bother to read and understand the instructions clearly presented on the back of ever can. The stuff works Fantastic when used AS Directed.

Obtw: X-Metals colors will "Haze" as you call it when applied but dry candy clear over night.

Micromeister said:

Gery:
This conversion coating is sort of a metallic reflective base coating. Kryon Conversion coating is #2300.

Please don't bad mouth a perfectly good product just because you didn't bother to read and understand the instructions clearly presented on the back of ever can. The stuff works Fantastic when used AS Directed.

Obtw: X-Metals colors will "Haze" as you call it when applied but dry candy clear over night.

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Thank you Mr Micro for bringing me up to speed regarding my error with the use of this paint. You are right, I didn't notice the note on the can about using the conversion coating. And for the record, I wasn't bad mouthing anything. It was a simple statement with an opinion. And if it's any consolation to you, that haze was still on there 3 days after I painted.

I have said this more than once in these threads that my finishing techniques are average compared to my designing and building skills. So please remove the burr from under your saddle....K?

UrbanKnight said:

I recently painted 2 "Phoenix" rockets (scratch builds from recovered parts) in Rustoleum chrome look paint as an experiment before using it on a more important rocket that's supposed to look like razor blades are sticking out of the body. I'm overall happy with the results, and it does indeed look like it's bare metal, but it has tiny spots that make it look almost like the metal has water spots on it. This shows up on the plastic, cardboard, and wood. If anybody knows what I might to do eliminate those, I'd love to hear it. Otherwise, I guess my razors will just be "previously wet"

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UK:
If your trying to make your rocket look like chromed or polished metal...well it's gonna be very difficult. I haven't seen rustoleums "Chrome" but in testing many other Chrome and mirror finished rattle can paints I can tell you they do not allow protective finishing of any kind...no clears, no wax, not future...NO NOTHING. absolutely anything that touches the finished "Chrome" surface immediately turns it dull grey. That includes finger print oils from our hands.

I have a little model I called the Dwindeled Dead Ringer done in Chrome silver. Painted more then 3 years ago.....I still can not touch it with my bare hands.. White cotton gloves only

About Best silver metallic i've found is Rustoleums Siver Metallic #7271 which is a fine metal flake. Very Nice looking finish and sparkles well in the sun.

Micromeister said:

Gery:
The reason Kryon X-metals didn't come out the way you thought they should was YOU obviously didn't read the instructions ON THE CAN.
Use of Krylon X-Metals MUST either be over chrome or shiny real metal surface OR applied over Krylons X-Metal conversion coating. This conversion coating is sort of a metallic reflective base coating. Kryon Conversion coating is #2300.

Please don't bad mouth a perfectly good product just because you didn't bother to read and understand the instructions clearly presented on the back of ever can. The stuff works Fantastic when used AS Directed.

Obtw: X-Metals colors will "Haze" as you call it when applied but dry candy clear over night.

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Beautiful blue rocket there Micro... that's X-Metals??

I have to say, I've read with interest the X-Metals cans and have wanted to give them a try, but I have NEVER been able to find a can of the X-Metals Converter to allow me to apply the stuff to a non-metallic rocket...

NOBODY seems to stock the darn stuff! IMHO X-Metals is pretty worthless without the converter (unless you're just doing touch-up stuff to put a faux "anodized" color finish on car trim or something... So I don't understand WHY they won't stock the stuff along with it...

Later! OL JR

Micromeister said:

UK:
If your trying to make your rocket look like chromed or polished metal...well it's gonna be very difficult. I haven't seen rustoleums "Chrome" but in testing many other Chrome and mirror finished rattle can paints I can tell you they do not allow protective finishing of any kind...no clears, no wax, not future...NO NOTHING. absolutely anything that touches the finished "Chrome" surface immediately turns it dull grey. That includes finger print oils from our hands.

I have a little model I called the Dwindeled Dead Ringer done in Chrome silver. Painted more then 3 years ago.....I still can not touch it with my bare hands.. White cotton gloves only

About Best silver metallic i've found is Rustoleums Siver Metallic #7271 which is a fine metal flake. Very Nice looking finish and sparkles well in the sun.

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The more I read, the more I feel I got pretty lucky and as close as it will get. As you said, they don't allow clear coats, but I have touched my rockets and they are still shiny... at least for now. My goal right now is to make the fins on my next rocket look like they're made of metal. They're filled and sanded basswood, so should come out alright, and that part rarely gets touched. The ones I tested on are throwaway rockets in my mind, but the came out alright. I'll shoot some pics soon and post them. The spots I mentioned might not even show in pics, so I should be glad I didn't get the less desirable results others are mentioning.

The best "chrome" in a spraycan I have found is Duplicolor Chrome.
can't touch it or clear it ...it's only to be looked at.

Now in an airbrush you can get alclad II, or testors metalizers, both are more resilient and have have a variety of colors and sheens.
The metalizers come in a buffable spray also that's real nice.

both brands have to go over a super smooth black gloss enamel coat ,, and spray on super thin, allowing the black to telegraph thru.
spray too much and the luster diminishes.

spax-stix is the same way

luke strawwalker said:

Beautiful blue rocket there Micro... that's X-Metals??

I have to say, I've read with interest the X-Metals cans and have wanted to give them a try, but I have NEVER been able to find a can of the X-Metals Converter to allow me to apply the stuff to a non-metallic rocket...

NOBODY seems to stock the darn stuff! IMHO X-Metals is pretty worthless without the converter (unless you're just doing touch-up stuff to put a faux "anodized" color finish on car trim or something... So I don't understand WHY they won't stock the stuff along with it...

Later! OL JR

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Yeap Luke:
X-metals have a pretty decent range of transparent top coat colors; anodized Blue, Green, Red, Purple & Yellow. The micro Dark Star is done in Yellow overlayed with Purple.
I hear ya concerning the conversion coating. I looked all over Maryland & Virgina looking for the stuff at "stocking distrubutors"...not a can was to be found. I ended up ordering a case (6 cans) from an Ace Hardware located in Florida... When applied per the can directions the stuff works perfectly the first time. X-Metals do work very well over chrome or buffed Shiny bare metals as well. over polished bronze, or brass the color coats do change to a darker hue.

Gary Byrum said:

Thank you Mr Micro for bringing me up to speed regarding my error with the use of this paint. You are right, I didn't notice the note on the can about using the conversion coating. And for the record, I wasn't bad mouthing anything. It was a simple statement with an opinion. And if it's any consolation to you, that haze was still on there 3 days after I painted.

I have said this more than once in these threads that my finishing techniques are average compared to my designing and building skills. So please remove the burr from under your saddle....K?

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Gary:
I have no problem with folks differing skill levels. But just like every skilled trade, Design & fabrication always take far less time & effort then the Finishing.. no matter what the project..house, car, Aircraft carrier or model rocket. Leaning and improving our finishing is no more difficult then anything else it just takes a tiny bit more patience and time spent following the materal manufactures recommendations. ie Always read the lable

I only take exception with those who Obviously don't know what they are talking about with regard to a specific product...but give others the impression they know what they are doing having used a product. In this case your comments while they may be your opinion are based on completely false & misleading disinformation based on your misuse of the X-Metal paint product.

It was simply my intent to correct that misinformation with true facts about how well the product works when applied per the manufactures clearly labled instructions. NO burrs, no between the lines...just straight simple facts. Take them for what they are, and learn from the mistake. X-Metal paint is not forumlated to be used over anything other then bare metal or the special #2300 reflective conversion coating.
no ill will intended.

I've used testors model master chrome, and it's much shinier than any of the silver or aluminums I've tried, but did not try any clear over it. They do have a metalizer sealer that should not cause it to cloud but I haven't personally used that.

Frank

Here are some photos. I probably got lucky, but it's not bad at all. Like I said, the spots aren't visible after about 10 feet away and don't even show up in the pictures.

Gary Byrum said:

I have said this more than once in these threads that my finishing techniques are average compared to my designing and building skills. So please remove the burr from under your saddle....K?

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Gary,
I know first-hand that you have superior artistic and creative skills. You have the ability to design things that so many people here could never ever dream of! So what if your finishing skills are not as excellent as other people on this board? But you have to keep in mind that we don't all have the same social skills. The ability to inform and educate in a respectful manner does not come naturally to everybody. Here we must respect the diversity of the participants: learning from their strengths, and overlooking their shortcomings.

UrbanKnight said:

Here are some photos. I probably got lucky, but it's not bad at all. Like I said, the spots aren't visible after about 10 feet away and don't even show up in the pictures.

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That turned out pretty nice...

I had grief with my Dr. Zooch Atlas-Agena last year... did the "Chrome in a can" crap and it about drove me to distraction, though I finally DID get a good finish that hardened up fairly decent...

I think next time I need to do Chrome I'll try the Tamiya somebody else mentioned or just use monokote-- trim or otherwise...

Later! OL JR

burkefj said:

I've used testors model master chrome, and it's much shinier than any of the silver or aluminums I've tried, but did not try any clear over it. They do have a metalizer sealer that should not cause it to cloud but I haven't personally used that.

Frank

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they will dull to some degree with any clear over them, just the nature of any high sheen metallic

Metallic paints have not come very far over the years, which is unfortunate. There's nothing like getting a great silver finish, only to have the laquer severely dull that finish. X-metal paints are ok, but not to the degree that I want a rocket to shine.

However, I recently found a great alternative for those who are willing to learn a new technique. I just finished by first "leafing" job. You can buy gold, silver, or copper leafing on amazon: 25 sheets for only $10. You spray adhesive on the part, then lay the leaf over the sprayed part and flatten it out with a dry paintbrush. Last, you spray a sealer on. This will give you the MOST realistic metal covering you can achieve. I encourage you all to try it once. It looks awesome in the sunlight- the reflective properties are really something.

jeffgeraci said:

It looks awesome in the sunlight- the reflective properties are really something.

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Pictures please! :blush:

The leafing sounds great!

I will also throw in the option of Monokote or self adhesive Trim Monokote which comes in a variety of metallic surfaces. I think I have gold, chrome, and aluminum.

DavieRockets said:

Pictures please! :blush:

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OK, be gentle, this was my first time leafing.

Marc_G said:

The leafing sounds great!

I will also throw in the option of Monokote or self adhesive Trim Monokote which comes in a variety of metallic surfaces. I think I have gold, chrome, and aluminum.

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Marc another alternative is chrome vinyl, I have chrome monokote
and vinyl and I can say that the vinyl is thinner , more pliable and shinier,and applies so much easier,it also cuts like butter.
to me, there is no comparison. It can be purchased by the sheet or small roll, it's not any more expensive at all.

I'm sure stickershock has plenty as well

Stymye said:

I'm sure stickershock has plenty as well

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Probably. That's where I got my "RAZOR BLADE" stickers from in chrome. I probably should have just asked him for the scraps and covered my fins with them.

Styme said:

another alternative is chrome vinyl, I have chrome monokote

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I've used chrome paper to build one of my Mercury Atlas rockets. I got it at Office Depot or maybe Staples, and it's heavy enough for card modeling. I'm sure it could find other uses on rockets.

Alclad Chrome over Tamiya gloss black. I used it on a 1/48 scale static odel of the X-3. You can see the national insignia on the fuselage reflected in the wing. A few important notes. The prepped surface must be flawless. The high gloss black base coat is crucial. Lastly, mist on the Alclad in several light coats. It dries in just minutes.

LW Bercini said:

Gary,
I know first-hand that you have superior artistic and creative skills. You have the ability to design things that so many people here could never ever dream of! So what if your finishing skills are not as excellent as other people on this board? But you have to keep in mind that we don't all have the same social skills. The ability to inform and educate in a respectful manner does not come naturally to everybody. Here we must respect the diversity of the participants: learning from their strengths, and overlooking their shortcomings.

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OK...Cool. And thank you. This helps confirm my thinking that it's just fine to be average or above average in a great many things rather than to be superior in only one. And regarding the "social skills" area....yeah, I know. I deal with prima donnas everyday. :eyeroll:

After handling and flying the rockets, I can say that the Rustoleum stuff also gets very dull from being touched. After only 3 flights, the nose doesn't shine at all and the body has dull spots, but the fins still sparkle.