Welcome new guy!
I use TitebondII on most every wood to wood, cardboard to wood, paper to wood, etc. bond. It has never- as in the bond breaks, not the material- failed me. When working on a glassine layer- I put the fin in the slot (or in it's assigned place) and trace around it. then, using a razor and great care, cut through the glassine layer and only the glassine layer to expose the more fibrous layers underneath. I often sand the root of larger fins with 120 grit to open it up a bit before bonding. Then, in the case of larger, devotedly HPR rockets, I will often use Rockeepoxy (my epoxy of choice) to fillet the joint. If it is a fin, it will definitely get a fillet. That's how I use wood glue
I use Rocketpoxy as my go to for epoxy. I use it when bonding composites (Fiberglass, carbon fiber, kevlar, etc). Always. Epoxy is the only way to go. I also use it when bonding 2 very different materials. ie, the fins in Estes Nike Smoke are plastic, but the CRs that they mount into are wood. IMHO epoxy is the best option here. Plastics get sanded with 60 or 120 grit, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, and wood gets a sanding if needed (I find laser cut parts seem to be sealed along the cut lines, so I like to sand them a bit to open them up.) Same deal with metals. Sand with 60 grit, and epoxy. Also, Like I said above, I also regularly use epoxy in a reinforcement application. ie, in my Madcow 4" Pike, the motor mount assembly is built with wood glue, but filleted with rocketpoxy. I find myself using this wherever a bit of extra insurance feels needed. It is also the threadlocker of all threadlockers. A little dab on the end of a threaded rod will keep a nut on there forever.
I use superglue (CA) mainly in temporary or supporting applications. When bonding fiberglass, I will sometimes tack the parts with CA before filleting with epoxy, or in the case of rockets like Wildman's minis, the motor mount can be asembled mostly with CA, as the through the wall fins can bear the brunt of the force. I also use it on av-bays for tacking things in place. With wood, some wood glue along the bond joint, and a dot of CA at either end. That way, the wood glue can form a strong bond, but the CA grabs so I can keep working on other parts.
Those are the main ones for me. I occasionally use hot glue, but that's usually a temporary application. ie, a bond that must be easily broken later.
Nate