Level 3 Build - Wildman "Extreme Wildthang"

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It was actually much easier than I thought it would be. Instructions suggest using a dowel with a cup full of epoxy and dumping it. I just pictured it all over the inside of the motor tube so I went for the injection and it worked easily.
 
I have never built a altimeter bay that I was happy with so I took my time in doing this one and although it won't win any beauty contest, it is solid and functional. I began by sanding the inside of the 2" switch band and outside of the coupler with 60 grit and epoxied the switch band centered between a mark at 4 1/2" and 6 1/2" on the 11" coupler. After it was dry I drilled 3 evenly spaced 1/4" vent holes. The coupler was marked along the entire length so it will aid in attaching the coupler to the payload bay with 6-32 screws later and the coupler to the main booster section with sheer pins, also later. The vent holes are exactly in the middle of where these attachments will be so that turbulence from them will not affect the altimeters during flight. I permanently attached a welded eyebolt on both bulkheads with a drop of epoxy. I used eyebolts rather than u-bolts for two reasons: one was space and two was because Tim Lehr insisted that anything else was overkill and I am trusting him on this, I have used them on other 4" glass rockets and have never had an issue with them. The photo below shows the layout on both bulkheads - dual terminal blocks for e-match leads and dual ejection charge holders. I used pvc pipe for the charges, they are 1/2" end caps that will hold up to 4 grams of black powder (more than I need). 1/4" x 12" threaded rods run through the altimeter bay and are permanently attached to the fore end, the rear bulkhead is removable from the aft end.

coupler.jpgEbay2.jpg
 
It was actually much easier than I thought it would be. Instructions suggest using a dowel with a cup full of epoxy and dumping it. I just pictured it all over the inside of the motor tube so I went for the injection and it worked easily.

On my T6, I needed to do that, so I attached aquarium airline to a syringe, and taped the loose end to a dowel, to control where it went. I used that to distribute the epoxy where I wanted it.

If you ever need airline for that, let me know -- I have a spool of it, and can bring you some to a launch.

-Kevin
 
On to the sled itself. The sled is close to what I had envisioned, although I have seen lots of better looking sleds, this one is solid, it's functional and it's simple. I am also confident in it. It will not take two hours in the field to ready this for flight (like some of my other creations). A 1/16"x9" G10 sheet provides the board. After laying things out where I wanted them I drilled mounting holes for the RRC2 minis, the battery holders, and the switches. I would be much happier if the switches lined up better but somehow they are not exactly in line with one another but like I said earlier, they are perfectly functional. 4-40 screws were used for mounting the altimeters and the battery holders. I used 18 AWG wiring throughout with the exception of the switches where 22 AWG was used - the 18 was just to much and I could not thread it through the tiny spaces on the switches. I bared all the wires and ran them through and twisted them as tight as I could without risking breaking something. I have never soldered anything in my life but after watching several U-Tube videos and purchasing a cheap Weller Soldering Iron and some solder graded for electronics repair I put my new skills to work soldering the wires to both the switches and battery holders. I must say, my connections are the most solid ones I have ever produced and I am confident of them. I then cut some small pieces of shrink tubing and covered the connections to protect them - my wife's hair dryer worked quite well at shrinking the tubes.

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Seriously, I don't know how those switches got so far off - they were marked! It works but it bothers me to the point that I might actually rebuild this, I have plenty of G10 sheet left over.
 
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On my T6, I needed to do that, so I attached aquarium airline to a syringe, and taped the loose end to a dowel, to control where it went. I used that to distribute the epoxy where I wanted it.

If you ever need airline for that, let me know -- I have a spool of it, and can bring you some to a launch.

-Kevin

What a great idea! Really, the technique I used worked very good but I was nervous doing it. I just kept seeing a glob of epoxy ending up in the motor tube and not being able to get it out of there easily before it hardened. The tube would be very accurate I imagine.
 
I Dont want to be a pooper. I have one of these and another very similar kit. (madcow Frenxy XL)

THe first on I built I used the bulkhead on the nosecone.. and MAN is it a fight to get my parachute into the upper bay. you can do it but it really has to go in perfect.

I built the Wild Thang second and the only change I made was to ditch the bulkhead. and use an Eyebolt to screw in the tip on the cone. then I tied shock cord right to it. gave me a LOT of extra room. I used that room to fold up the chock cord and stuff it in there. made getting my chute into the payload section much easier!

Now I Know you have a tracker in there. but I just thought I would share that with you! I LOVE my wildthang.... just too cool!


Oh and I got your message about decals for it.... shoot me an e-mail to remind my old forgetfull butt, and we will get you hooked up!

I would put the coupler IN the nosecone shoulder, and use all thread from the nose tip to secure it in place.


To each his own, though! I'm sure it'll work out fine.


Braden
 
It's funny, these are both great ideas and there were so many options available with these new filament wound nosecones. I did put some serious thought into how to utilize this component and it's why I started with that part of the build first. I did want the tracker riding in there but other than that I didn't really have any other requirements for this. Those of you who know me pretty well are probably a little surprised I managed to come up with what I did. All 3 options would certainly work and I almost went with the threaded rod running from the metal tip through the coupler which could have made the coupler removable - next time I just may use that technique. Thanks for all the great feedback.
 
Just a few things to finish up before it's flight ready. I needed to drill a pressure relief hole in the payload section and finish putting together the recovery system. I did decide on the 72" Rocketman chute. Below are a few pictures including the finished product with a couple coats of Rustoleum Automobile Primer - I use that stuff on all my rockets, it dries really fast so you can sand it and spray on a 2nd coat on the same day.

Hopefully the weather cooperates next weekend and the Wildthang will take it's first flight. I have a CTI K1200 White Thunder that ought to send it to about 6000 feet and would be a spectacular test flight.



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Weather forecast as of right now says thunderstorms but I don't trust the weatherman to know what is going to happen 6 days from now so my fingers are crossed and I'm hoping for the best. If all goes well I will get to launch my rocket and hopefully assist a new rocket friend with his level 1 attempt on the same day and I'm just as excited about that as I am about my own flight.

The Extreme Wildthang is ready to fly and even has a few coats of primer on it. I wet sanded it down and it's just begging some color now. I will probably test fly it before it gets paint unless a cool paint scheme pops into my brain before then.

I am open to any and all suggestions for colors? I have had pretty good luck using Rustoleum Auto Primer and Rustoleum Painters Touch for the color. I had thought it would be cool to have a auto body shop paint it for me but I'm afraid of what the cost might be on something like that vs $4.99 a can for doing it myself.
 
A little help please.

Ground testing was mostly a success and it was fun to get outside and do something rocketry after a long winter. It helped me that I had found somebody who had used this same rocket for a level 3 cert, it at least gave me a good place to start. It turns out that 2.5 grams for the main works but 3 worked even better. 3 grams broke 3 sheer pins, blew the entire length of shock cord and the chute out but not to the point where it would reach the end and snap back, it was just right. The booster was a little different story and this where I need some help or suggestions. I don't have any 75mm hardware to stuff in the rocket so I had to try and figure out a way to simulate there being a motor in the rocket - how do you do this? My solution was to cut out a sturdy piece of cardboard box and close the end up. 2.5 grams was not enough - it broke the sheer pins but the rocket didn't separate. 4 grams separated the rocket and broke the sheer pins and had it been a real flight all would have been well I think. It did blow a hole in my cardboard though which leaves me with the thought that maybe it might be to much, I'm not sure. More testing tomorrow. I did get my Aeropack 75-54 adapter so I can stuff a motor in it but the forward closure is not plugged so I still have the issue of blowby gas - any thoughts other than trying my cardboard trick again?
 
I am open to any and all suggestions for colors? I have had pretty good luck using Rustoleum Auto Primer and Rustoleum Painters Touch for the color. I had thought it would be cool to have a auto body shop paint it for me but I'm afraid of what the cost might be on something like that vs $4.99 a can for doing it myself.


This was all done with paint you mention!
Splitting the color on fins brings out the "W"

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A little help please.

Easy! You call me, and I loan you a 75mm case for your ground testing.

:)

Your cardboard is flexing and absorbing some of the pressure from the charge, so it's throwing things off. With your 54mm case, just pack the ejection well with dog barf, then put tape over the top of that.

-Kevin
 
Easy! You call me, and I loan you a 75mm case for your ground testing.

:)

Your cardboard is flexing and absorbing some of the pressure from the charge, so it's throwing things off. With your 54mm case, just pack the ejection well with dog barf, then put tape over the top of that.

-Kevin

Ok, that makes sense. My attempt sort of worked but it did blow the cardboard so I know with a motor it would have at least separated but I'm not sure with how much force it would have separated. Thanks for the idea.
 
Weather forecast in Jansen, NE (THOR's new rocket pasture) is for 86 degrees and 13 mph wind out of the SSE which is actually the perfect wind for this location, it blows everything in the direction where we have at least 3 or 4 miles of total flatness. If the forecast stays the same I will prep the rocket the night before and be ready to launch early when maybe the wind is only up to 9 or 10. It just doesn't get any calmer than that here (not on launch days anyway), the rocket gods don't give us many good days and when you only have one day a month you just have to deal with it. I'll try to get pictures and or video of the flight here. K1200 sims at a little over 6000 feet going a little over 500mph. This should be a really good test of everything. No vendors on sight this week or I may have gone with a K940 - if the Wildman heard of such a thing I'd be made fun of though so I'll stuff the biggest engine I have in it.
 
The weather cooperated today so I went ahead and stuffed a K-1200 in the Wildthang and the pics below tell the story, the flight was flawless. Great fast boost to apogee, then the primary alt deployed the drogue and 3 seconds later the back-up charge fired. At 1000 feet the main deployed and at 700 the back-up charge blew. The rocket landed not far away with no damage at all. She is ready for a "M" I do believe. I may try one more test launch on a "L" motor before the big day but this launch sure gave me some confidence that the build was solid and all systems worked perfectly.

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Dang it!
Wish I could have gone but the contractor finally got around to roofing my house and somebody had to be around. :(
Normally I would have left it to the wife but she is in Arkansas where our oldest boys wife is in the hospital.
 
You'll see it fly on an even bigger motor Bill! It was pretty cool though and every once in a while things work out just like you planned and this was one of those rare times.
 
Update - The Wildthang had another successful flight on Fathers Day in Jansen, NE., this time it was on a CTI K-740 C-Star. I love this motor, it got close to 5000 feet and it was a nice clear day so we could see everything from the ground and all went according to plan. I will put her up one more time on a small "L" before the big flight (I am thinking a CTI L910) another C-Star reload. Heather and I are Planning a trip to Argonia for "Sweaty Balls" in a few weeks and I'll probably fly it there. It should put it up to around 8500 feet. Then, it's "M" motor time and hopefully Level 3!
 
Ok, finally got around to painting the Wildthang. I hate painting, I'm just never happy with the results I get and forget about using 2 colors. I started by trying to duplicate Crazy Jim's scheme above but with White and Purple and I din't like it so I immediately sanded it down a bit and sprayed the whole thing with Rustoleum Metallic Red. It looks OK, I know as soon as it hits the ground in Argonia and gets dragged along the ground it won't matter what color it was. Here is a updated pic of the Wildthang as it is now and also one after it's maiden flight.

Big news! Just got off the phone with Tim and ordered my Cert motor: a CTI M1830-C-Star!!! I'll pick it up at Airfest and fly it Saturday afternoon after the THOR group gets done with our volunteer duty. It felt good to place a order for my first "M" motor.

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You know what, he did sound like he was in a pretty good mood when I talked to him earlier come to think of it.
 
How did I miss this thread? Great build and beautiful rocket! BOL on you cert flight!

Next it was onto something I really wasn't looking forward to - injecting the CR fillets.

I also found trying to dump epoxy on CR's was a PITA when they are way down inside not to mention sloppy.On my last couple of builds I've been injecting them.If you get the injection hole just above the CR,after you inject the epoxy,tape off the hole and stand the rocket up.The epoxy fills the drilled hole and hardly needs any finishing.
 
I have been following your thread all along.

Good luck on your cert flight and let us know how you went. Especially with video/pics

Cheers


Chris
 
Thanks for the words of encouragement, I will get plenty of pics and hopefully a good video too and share them here. All the paperwork is finished and awaiting approval, only thing left is to launch it!
 
This will be my last update before the flight and thanks to Troj himself, I have a very nice 4 grain, 75mm, CTI Casing and all Closures. Booked our hotel so everything is a go. I'll see those of you who are going to Airfest at the rocket pasture on Friday, I will post the results and pics and hopefully a good video after the flight. Thanks for following the thread.
 
This will be my last update before the flight and thanks to Troj himself, I have a very nice 4 grain, 75mm, CTI Casing and all Closures. Booked our hotel so everything is a go. I'll see those of you who are going to Airfest at the rocket pasture on Friday, I will post the results and pics and hopefully a good video after the flight. Thanks for following the thread.

Make sure you hunt me down when you fly, and I'll help you at the pad as well as with pictures.

-Kevin
 
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He shoots, he scores! Got a birdie, on the first try!

Congrats, Scott!

-Kevin
 
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