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A new nosecone for my Cherokee E. The whole harness detached (i did the 'tube through the mmt' trick but guess I didn't tie it off well enough to survive 3 flights) and the old one flew away...
 
No printing for me today.

one of my colleagues, printed a few prototypes, and forgot to put glue down on the bed, with ABS.. So, we [he] now have to replace said glass bed, as the ABS pulled a few chips out of it. Not the first time, and won't the last..
 
No printing for me today.

one of my colleagues, printed a few prototypes, and forgot to put glue down on the bed, with ABS.. So, we [he] now have to replace said glass bed, as the ABS pulled a few chips out of it. Not the first time, and won't the last..
a sticky note is the solution to all your woes ;)
 
Today? Something........finally! Did a complete tear down of the machine this weekend, cleaned and reseated everything, replaced belts and wheels, realigned everything, new nozzle, full calibration (including input shaping and pressure advance)........and then NOTHING would work. Kept getting weird Klipper failures about failure to respond to heating commands.....and then the Sonic pad would reboot before I could download the log and see which heating commands were going awry (real time display was rock solid, so I needed the logs).

Finally troubleshot it last night to the hot end thermistor securing screw was backed out about 1/8 turn from 'gently seated' and allowing the thermistor to bang around in it's well when the print head was moving faster than moderate speed, giving erratic temp readings. Turned the screw back to it's nominal position and voila!

Re-ran all the calibrations last night, post-refresh test prints tonight.

Lesson learned, check ALL the screws! Twice!
 
You have inspired me to get to a teardown/diagnostic of a printer with an electronic issue. Possible faulty power switch, which is a known issue for the FLSUN printers.
I have a fully tricked out Ender 3 Pro. Maintenance is a full time task, almost a hobby in and of itself.

Just moments away from ordering a P1S combo and relegate the Ender to history.

Good luck in your endeavors.
 
Just moments away from ordering a P1S combo and relegate the Ender to history.

Good luck in your enendeavors.
Bambu Lab will continue to shake up the hobby printer market.

I have a limited budget, so I'll be tinkering with hardware for the foreseeable future.

Good luck with your new adventures in 3d printing.
 
Why a sloth? Is it some sort of 3d printer joke?
I take it as we're all slow (and thus sloth like) in doing necessary maintenance chores, especially the messy ones and those that seem to have marginal individual benefit.
 
We're getting ready for our first launch of the season this weekend. I printed out a couple of copies of my Betamax scratch design. I hadn't printed these in PETG yet, and I had to tweak it a bit. These are a lot of fun and stupid cheap, so I like to have a couple to give out at the launches.

I am also finishing up my 3D-printed Red Max Extreme with a 29mm MMT. Prime, sand, fill (rinse and repeat). This one should also be a hoot. I'll post the files on my printables site after the launch (if I ever see it again). This one has been on my bench since before I made the switch to PETG, but the fins were printed flat, so they should do ok.


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Printed out some test prints to check fit, etc. for a RunCam6 mount... this is some horrible green colored PLA I'm using as testing filament. Its more greenish IRL than the lighting via the camera depicts.

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It has venting on the camera, which is good, so wanted to make sure the mountingcase had venting. The runcam2 doesn't, and my mounting case didn't either.

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I had some ups and downs this weekend. From my last post, I was finishing up the prep on my DRM Extreme BT60 29mm scratch build. That rocket was printed a while back in PLA+ with the fins upright on the build plate. Well, the floor decided it wanted a closer look at my work and the rocket hit the ground, snapping one of the fins. It took be a couple minutes to recover as I was in the process of moving upstairs to put color on it. RIP.😭

This morning, I woke up determined to make this rocket work. I redesigned the fin can, fins, and retainer in Fusion and printed it in PETG, with the fins laying flat. The finish wasn't as nice and required about 30mins of post-processing, but the result turned out pretty nice. I need to do some tuning work on my printer to the the first layer adhesion dialed in.

I cut the MMT and body tube and mocked it up with a previously printed DRM nosecone:
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The fin tabs fit snuggly with just a hair (maybe a thick 1mm) of gap between the root edge and the fin can. The MMT inserted perfect, with just a hint of friction and the retaining ring and cap also assembled nicely. My only concern was if I allowed enough clearance for the AT 29mm thrust ring. I grabbed a spent H135 motor and stuffed it in there and put the cap on. It sits nice and tight.

I finished it off by gluing: The shock cord through the channel between the BT and MMT, the MMT, body tube, and fins to the fin can, retaining ring to MMT. Finally, 3 coats of primer after lots of filling and sanding.

I am one sanding session away from being back to where I was last night. Tomorrow, I'll finish sanding the primer, touch up any problems, and hopefully start getting color on this little monster. All in all, I think this is a better overall rocket. Running with PETG vs PLA+, better fin can design, and the retainer fits AT disposable motors like a glove. I am not flying an H135 in this, but a G80? maaaaaybe.

Oh, and the Goblin Extreme BT60 29mm design is almost ready as well!


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Trying to make a lighter nose cone for my Maxi Alpha. I'm trying HIPS had to do some tweaks a speed reduction but looking promising. And HIPS is supposed to be tough and light.
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Just an update the filament was no good adhesion was bad and the layers separated so I moved on. Temps were 250-270 and bed was all the way up to 120 no luck tried a ton of settings. Also fixed my CR 10 mini but damn it's slow.
 
Just an update the filament was no good adhesion was bad and the layers separated so I moved on. Temps were 250-270 and bed was all the way up to 120 no luck tried a ton of settings. Also fixed my CR 10 mini but damn it's slow.
No idea what you were printing, but those are way too high of settings for PLA/PETG in general. Even with PET-CF I'm not quite running 270 for the nozzle.
Did you dry your filament first?
 
HIPS and yes I know. Was trying it out all other filaments print fine. Was something more exotic thought I could get a lighter better part that's all. Have dryer filament holder yes.

Thanks
 
No idea what you were printing, but those are way too high of settings for PLA/PETG in general. Even with PET-CF I'm not quite running 270 for the nozzle.
Did you dry your filament first?
Good comment. Nearly all CF impregnated filament requires some drying prior to printing if you want ideal results.
 
Why a sloth? Is it some sort of 3d printer joke?
2 possibilities
Sloth.. because it hangs onto the acme thread like a Sloth
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And/Or....It's actually slough. Usage:- to slough off. Meaning to remove the top layer(shed a layer). In this case, the debris that collects on the oily acme thread.
Possibly both and it's a play on words.
 
Working on this for a future scale article for the TOTAL IMPULSE newsletter.
2D drafting takes time (at least for me.)
Everything but the brown tubes are 3D printed, just waiting for spring for painting.
 

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Broke a part of of my MK3S so I am reprinting it to complete the upgrade.
 
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