I am a big believer in Li-ion these days. All my EDC and LEO flashlights are rechargeable Li-ion (CR123A, 18650, etc.) and they are great. You're going to spend more upfront for rechargeable 9v Li-ion but you will save more money and waste in the longrun.What are your opinions on 9 volt alkaline batteries vs. lithium? Lithium last longer and have more power, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
Outputs vary from one Lithium(-ion) battery to the next. If you decide to replace alkaline with lithium, its important to check the replacement has both the appropriate voltage and type/size.Ive been wondering the same thing. They are also a few grams lighter. I havent tested a lithiums maximum current output but I know fresh alkalines can hit 8 amps for a moment.
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Outputs vary from one Lithium(-ion) battery to the next. If you decide to replace alkaline with lithium, its important to check the replacement has both the appropriate voltage and type/size.
Same statement applies if you are referencing Lithium (Non-chargeable) or Li-ion (Chargeable). Either one can have varying outputs.I think we were both referring to lithium 9v non rechargeable batteries.
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There should be no difference between Lithium and Li-ion, except one is rechargeable. If a Lithium battery is to high power for the RRC2+ so would the Li-ion. I found the following post from the past but should be relivant.I forgot to mention, this will be for a Missileworks RRC2+ altimeter. It seems like there was some issue with them using rechargeable batteries.
Same statement applies if you are referencing Lithium (Non-chargeable) or Li-ion (Chargeable). Either one can have varying outputs.
A 9V alkaline will have six 1.5V alkaline cells inside, while a 9V lithium will have three 3V lithium cells inside. The 3V and 3.6V chemistries are generally not found in the common sizes of AA, AAA, C, or D to avoid accidentally putting one of these higher voltage batteries in a device designed for lower voltages.
His OP stated, "What are your opinions"? There was no question, just asking for a opinion. I stated that I loved Lithium and Li-ion batteries but you must be careful with the varying outputs.I understand all that you have posted. It seems you are telling us that we should ask the question that OP already specifically asked. We are both looking for actual answers. Not recommendations to ask a question.
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There is a 9V lithium battery that I picked up that actually puts out 9.5 to 9.8V and is recharged off a micro USB socket. I'll post some pictures. I was figuring on using them for some 9V trackers I have.
Some listed 9V lithium size format are a 2S cell which tops out at 8.2 to 8.4V Kurt
The non-rechargeable are usually 2 cells (8.4V). The rechargeable lithium 9V's can be 2 cells to several cells, depending on the chemistry. There's also a wide difference between the unloaded voltage and the loaded voltage. Load test and verify! Also do the test at the temperature extreme your rocket might see sitting on the pad for a while.
It's these John: https://www.banggood.com/ZNTER-S19-9V-400mAh-USB-Rechargeable-9V-Lipo-Battery-p-1070703.htm
They're available all over the place now and I use that site for example only.
If one is flying in extremes of environment, it's probably best to use what everyone else is using since they've already "proven" themselves in the
environment flown. Kurt
Broken link.
Don't assume someone else knows what they're doing. I've seen rockets sit on the pad in cold weather, waiting for a window, then come in ballistic. If you don't trust the batteries or altimeter in the cold, put one of those small chemical hand warmers in the altimeter bay (if it fits).
Ok will try again: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/znter-9...#1&gclid=CInewarR59gCFTeUxQIdKxcPOQ&gclsrc=ds
If one does a detailed search should be able to find them. 400mah.
John, I was implying if a club or group has success with a power source in a particular environment, that would be prudent to try rather than go off half
cocked and fail. Kinda embarrassing when a large group says, "We told you so! As you pickup the pieces of your smashed rocket." This is of course if
you can find the pieces.:wink::cry: Kurt
That's not a battery, it's a power supply: one Lipo cell with a boost converter. No telling how that could fail and fry your electronics. Even under normal operation, you would have to look at the noise/ripple produced by the converter under load. Plus, it has all the problems of charging and maintaining a cheap Lipo cell. You are better off with a standard primary cell battery. Second to that would be a 2-cell Lipo without the internal boost regulator, and keep it maintained with a good Lipo charger.
I recommend that people understand the technology and learn how to test & verify what you're using. It isn't magic or Maxwell's equations! Otherwise, you are copying someone else's problems. "I don't know what happened, it worked ok up until this flight".
I bought several LiPo batteries and a charger a few years ago. But someone at Missileworks told me they wouldn't work with my RRC2+, and I can't remember why.
All I use the 9V batteries for is running my altimeters which fire ematches. I use Duracell because they have proven durable and last a long time. We fly Oct. to April so they sit in the cold often, I've also had 80G flights and they have always worked fine. I run Perfectflite altimeters which beep out the battery voltage on start up. The altimeters consistently read 0.1 V less then what my meter reads. I ususally don't open the bay and just fly the battery until the altimeter reported voltage is below 8.9V. That is usually 3 years with 6 - 8 flights per year. I suspect they would still work if they were down to 8.0V.
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