Best rocketry tools - What is yours?

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The one on the left is the one you don't want, its made by Harbor Freight, the tool is sloppy, cuts poorly and is difficult to adjust. Crossbar has about .062" slop left/right of center its so loose.

The one on the right is made by General tools obviously uses a single cutter that is easily sharpened on fine sandpaper (400+ grit), bar is held tightly and does not move once set, cuts a very clean hole.

The HF one only costs about $3 less than the General one (I think the General one cost $10.99). I am buying me 4 more of the General brand ones in about a week. Sometimes these are referred to as fly cutters. Clamps are a must or your fingers/hands are in jeopardy.

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Just make sure and use them in a Drill press, it gets ugly otherwise.
 
The one on the left is the one you don't want, its made by Harbor Freight, the tool is sloppy, cuts poorly and is difficult to adjust. Crossbar has about .062" slop left/right of center its so loose.

The one on the right is made by General tools obviously uses a single cutter that is easily sharpened on fine sandpaper (400+ grit), bar is held tightly and does not move once set, cuts a very clean hole.

The HF one only costs about $3 less than the General one (I think the General one cost $10.99). I am buying me 4 more of the General brand ones in about a week. Sometimes these are referred to as fly cutters. Clamps are a must or your fingers/hands are in jeopardy.

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Pay attention to the warnings, they aren't kidding. In my opinion there is no more dangerous tool than a flycutter for wood. Never do anything that put your fingers close to the spinning cutter. It has the potential of taking fingers off so fast you would not believe it then pulling the rest of your hand into the spinning cutter. Trust me, it can ruin your day.... Use it only with a drillpress, never freehand it with a drill. Clamps, multi clamps, clamps all over the place. If your piece of wood is too small and you can't really get a good hold of the plywood then get a bigger piece. Trashing a piece of wood is much, much, better than trashing your fingers....:p

edit: I used rharshberger's answer to emphasize what kind of crap is out there, not to tell him anything about what to do. ;) Everyone that gave a warning should be heeded, don't blow anyone off and think we're being overly cautious. You don't wanna be a one-handed rocketeer.....
 
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The one on the left is the one you don't want, its made by Harbor Freight, the tool is sloppy, cuts poorly and is difficult to adjust. Crossbar has about .062" slop left/right of center its so loose.

The one on the right is made by General tools obviously uses a single cutter that is easily sharpened on fine sandpaper (400+ grit), bar is held tightly and does not move once set, cuts a very clean hole.

The HF one only costs about $3 less than the General one (I think the General one cost $10.99). I am buying me 4 more of the General brand ones in about a week. Sometimes these are referred to as fly cutters. Clamps are a must or your fingers/hands are in jeopardy.

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This is no "saw". I'm familiar with these "Cutters". To me, a saw has teeth. This is why I was asking. Thanks for the clarity rharsh... I was beginning to wonder if I had overlooked something.
 
I've got a HF unit.
It's not loose or sloppy at all.
I looked into getting a 1/4" hex shaft longer than provided for larger holes.
But I couldn't find a suppler that offered a hardened hex shaft.
So it stands as bought.
The cutter tips get hot, really hot.
Don't dip them in water or they become brittle and break.
They are designed for the heat of friction cutting or scrape cutting.
Just let them cool naturally.
A touch up after each use with a small diamond stone keeps em sharper than new.
With the HF cutter, you can set the depth of one slightly deeper than the other for twice the cutting speed.
Or set one farther in or out by .001 for a cleaner cut on the inside, or outside of the hole.
Depending upon which you are using. The hole, or the cut out.
In my woodshop, I mostly used it for the whole. Opposite of us rocket builders.
 
With a bit of experience you can get tricky with the cutter, you can set a 2 leg cutter up to cut the inside and the outside of a centering ring. You have to set the cutters up to cut so the straight edge is on the correct side of the ring and set the inside cutter to finish the cut first then the outside cutter goes through to finish the ring. In the learning process you will most likely trash a few or cut the wrong size but it does speed up the process. :)
 
Sorry for the confusion, what rharsh posted was what I had in mind. It's my dads, from a good 20 yrs. ago, and it looks a lot like the one on the right in the picture. I've always heard it called a hole saw, but maybe I'm wrong.
 
Sorry for the confusion, what rharsh posted was what I had in mind. It's my dads, from a good 20 yrs. ago, and it looks a lot like the one on the right in the picture. I've always heard it called a hole saw, but maybe I'm wrong.

If you Google up "hole saw" and look at images, you'll get a great lot of these. There's a lot of different kinds, but they all have teeth. They're OK for the average hole, but not near as clean as the cutters you guys are talking about.

hole-saw.jpg
 
Sorry for the confusion, what rharsh posted was what I had in mind. It's my dads, from a good 20 yrs. ago, and it looks a lot like the one on the right in the picture. I've always heard it called a hole saw, but maybe I'm wrong.

You were not wrong Nute, one thing I have noticed with tools is that they are called different things in different places. Even the manufactures call these different names, they are still a hole saw, hole cutter, fly cutter, butterfly cutter, adjustable circle cutter etc. Names sometimes change by region.
 
If you Google up "hole saw" and look at images, you'll get a great lot of these. There's a lot of different kinds, but they all have teeth. They're OK for the average hole, but not near as clean as the cutters you guys are talking about.

I use these TOOTHED hole saws to cut the inner holes for centering rings I make out of foam board for LPR purposes. They work fine with a small electric hand drill.
 
I use these TOOTHED hole saws to cut the inner holes for centering rings I make out of foam board for LPR purposes. They work fine with a small electric hand drill.

Have you posted making CRs from foamboard over in techniques, they probably work great for that, or even mid-power with a 1/32" plywood skin on both sides.
 
Amazing tool I no longer have easy access to: laser cutter. So easy for complex centering rings, bulkheads, sleds, fins...

I gotta second sandpaper though, even if it sorta straddles the line between tool and consumable. Use fresh sandpaper; it doesn't work when loaded or worn!
 
I need a tool that will get my line straight for the nosecone paint always tricky trying to get a line straight around the curve.
Like painting a tip
 
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Isn't the ID the same as a BT20? I always thought the BT30 was a thick walled BT20. A simple workaround would be to build up the diameter of the BT20 fin guide post until the BT30 fits. Trim the excess off with an XActo knife...that is if you even have to do that. My little tricks would work with Centuri tubes and Estes odd ball sizes like the BT52. BT52 to BT20 centering rings are out there, SEMROC line at eRocket should be available soon as will Centuri based centering rings. Unfortunately I'm sure Estes wont be making a fin marking guide for the odd sizes so we have to get creative :)

BT-20 0.710" 0.736" 0.013"
BT-30 0.725" 0.767" 0.021"
 
BT-20 0.710" 0.736" 0.013"
BT-30 0.725" 0.767" 0.021"

If you think about it, the BT 30 had to have a slightly bigger ID (like the Astron Scout had) so the motor could easily shift at ejection redistributing the weight of the rocket enabling it to tumble rather than coming in ballistic.
 
I need a tool that will get my line straight for the nosecone paint always tricky trying to get a line straight around the curve.
Like painting a tip

Try cutting a circle in foamboard and dropping it over the tip of the nose cone then mark the line and tape it.
 
I'm gonna say my car.. It allows me to "do" rocketry. Not only does it transport me, a friend and all our rocketry items, but it also doubles as a dry (and secure) storage area, a prep table, sun shade, cool air dispenser, an umbrella (not really rocket related), a comfy rest & relaxation area (with soothing music), a spare launch battery in a pinch, and the best way to retrieve a much needed part (I'm outta glue!) at 8:35pm on a Thursday night.. It also doubles as a nice billboard for my NASA & 'Binder Designs' stickers!!
 
Compass Cutter :) Cheap and cheerful and so useful for centering rings.
 
Best tools?

My brain?? My hands?? Even both are old and showing signs of wear, not much gets done (design OR construction) without them.
 
If you think about it, the BT 30 had to have a slightly bigger ID (like the Astron Scout had) so the motor could easily shift at ejection redistributing the weight of the rocket enabling it to tumble rather than coming in ballistic.


...speaking of Astron Scout, I found my old one in the attic when we cleaned it out. Still a bright yellow and black Testors brushed on finish. Gonna have to fly it...soon ;)
 
A set of small diamond files seems to come in handy quite often.
 
A set of small diamond files seems to come in handy quite often.

I opted to fabricate my own sanding rods. I have em from 1/16: to 1/2". Wrap and glue different sand paper grits on different sized dowels. These come in real handy when sanding out the paint that got in the launch lugs, as well as working the curved areas of my fins.

Curved you ask?
 
2x Aluminum Angles.

Taped to your air-frame they guarantee properly aligned fins every time.
 
Best tools?

My brain?? My hands?? Even both are old and showing signs of wear, not much gets done (design OR construction) without them.


I'd put in a vote for thumbs, they make things happen that otherwise wouldn't.

My imagination is a powerful tool (as is my memory and determination).
 
For me the best tool is one's brain and how well you use it determines the outcome of your build. You can have all the best tools, but if you lack the knowledge then there's a good chance it will show.
 
Dremel 543 Cutting/Shaping Disk, makes cutting fin slots in cardboard and fiberglass tubes a breeze, its so easy I don't even use my router slotting jig any more to slot tube. Its also great for other stuff, just not metal.


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Pricey:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HI5WUS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

but I'll have to get one. I've been using these, but only on LOC paper tubing, $6.99 for five:

Diamond Rotary Cutting Discs 5 Pc

https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-rotary-cutting-discs-5-pc-69657.html

image_20675.jpg
 
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