Warning!! A glue thread!

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It's CA fer chrissakes! Ack, indeed yet another glue thread!

Yeah, I grabbed a bottle from HD a few months ago. Just a different (maybe) cyanoacrylate composition from "Super Glue" and it's relatives. Thin. Works great for sealing balsa & hardening fin edges and tube ends. Haven't used it as an actual "glue" but expect it to be fine. Decent price for the volume. Glues fingers together instantly like most CAs. I'd buy it again. Keep it refrigerated if you only use a little at a time--it's temperature and atmospheric moisture that will harden CA like a rock.

I usually use the little cheapo 10-pack of 3g CA tubes from HF (both thin and gel) so no worries about forgetting to recap it, which is convenient sometimes (unless using a lot). This DAP stuff cost me $5.47/24g whereas the HF cost me $2.89/30g, 20% off with coupon, so HF beats it by costing less than half of DAP. They're both tough enough, and durable, though I've never done side-by-side comparisons, and cannot tell a difference for my LPR/HPR purposes. Good stuff--DAP has a good reputation for most products.

HF is made by the deceiving Chicoms. DAP is made in the UK. That alone is sufficient reason for me to shell out for the 2.5x more expensive DAP. Still pissed about their viral virus lies, and the less we buy from China, the longer it'll take before your descendants need to learn Mandarin so they can understand their new social credit scores and decode their work assignments.
 
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How fumey is it?

I note they also have a version specifically targeted at wood. https://www.amazon.com/DAP-00157-Rapid-Curing-Adhesive/dp/B01DA6X1OC

I'm trying to figure out when I'd use it instead of other glues. Apparently it is CA-based, but they claim it is more durable and less brittle. If it is not too fumey, it is a bit tempting to use it for hardening, because there's more time to work with it than regular thin CA, which fairly quickly hardens on the q-tip. Tempted get a bottle and experiment with it.
 
How fumey is it?

I note they also have a version specifically targeted at wood. https://www.amazon.com/DAP-00157-Rapid-Curing-Adhesive/dp/B01DA6X1OC

I'm trying to figure out when I'd use it instead of other glues. Apparently it is CA-based, but they claim it is more durable and less brittle. If it is not too fumey, it is a bit tempting to use it for hardening, because there's more time to work with it than regular thin CA, which fairly quickly hardens on the q-tip. Tempted get a bottle and experiment with it.
This stuff will dry up pretty quickly, too, but I don't consider that any sort of real problem--CA and Q-tips are cheap. Nature of the beast. Just plan your plan and work steadily.

Their carefully worded claim is that it is more durable and less brittle than the original branded "Super Glue" that arrived like 50 years ago, not every other CA out there created since (there are several different formulations with very different characteristics; at least of CAs used in medicine).

DAP is decent (and not very fumey, though that's never been an issue for me with any CA I've used) but DAP stretches their advertising claims just like everybody else does.

It's good stuff. And not made in friggin China.
 
How fumey is it?

I note they also have a version specifically targeted at wood. https://www.amazon.com/DAP-00157-Rapid-Curing-Adhesive/dp/B01DA6X1OC

I'm trying to figure out when I'd use it instead of other glues. Apparently it is CA-based, but they claim it is more durable and less brittle. If it is not too fumey, it is a bit tempting to use it for hardening, because there's more time to work with it than regular thin CA, which fairly quickly hardens on the q-tip. Tempted get a bottle and experiment with it.
Don't get your information from Amazon. Get it from DAP: https://www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/adhesives/glues-epoxies/rapidfuse-wood/ for the wood glue. The MSDS is there, too. Says the wood glue odor is "sharp". It's 65-85% ethyl cyanoacrylate, just like many other CAs. Also has 3-7% dimethyl sebacate, which is a plasticizer and can be a solvent for resins and rubber. Maybe that's what makes this CA decent/better for gluing wood, or could just be a thickener?

Dunno, but if Amazon's price of $9.89 for 4 OUNCES of high-CA adhesive is accurate, if it could replace the other CAs we usually use, it'd be cheap as chips. You can imagine it probably flows like most unthinned wood glues.

By the way, just checked MSDS for the regular Rapid Fuse you posted a pic of. Same two chems at the exact same concentration range, and also the odor listed as "sharp". They also say the regular stuff is great for wood, but I don't use CA to bond woods.

Read the reviews, many from professionals, at the DAP website. Amazon reviews can be useful, too, but I'd rather hear from the pros.
 
....hmm...I warned y'all! Ok, thanks for the review...I just now saw this product in the building supply where I work. I may try some! Being somewhat of a glue nerd, I do like GLUE threads! And OIL threads on the motor forums!:p
 
....hmm...I warned y'all! Ok, thanks for the review...I just now saw this product in the building supply where I work. I may try some! Being somewhat of a glue nerd, I do like GLUE threads! And OIL threads on the motor forums!:p
Please report back after testing. If the DAP CA-based wood glue works as good as any other CA for multiple purposes, then it's the cheapest I've ever seen CA ever--around $10 for 4 ounces?!? Wow.

Apart from tube clogging (clean 'em out good after use) in the big bottle, and some that arrived via mail order already semi- or fully-polymerized (HD/Lowes can't be that much more expensive), the reviews for both the usual DAP Rapid Fuse and the DAP CA Wood Glue looked pretty good on both the DAP website and Amazon.

If I used it like wood glue (I won't--it's CA...and comparatively rigid/brittle) then it would be a very expensive wood glue if I used a lot. If used like I usually use CA, primarily for toughening wood & cardboard, well, that large bottle would probably get old long before I got through 4 ounces of the stuff.
 
"Compiled"? It's all Titebond! (I still like these kinds of table though).
 
I’ve bought big bottles of Hobby Lobby this glue and poured them into little bottles, immediately resealing the big bottle (although I should stick it in fridge). The bigger bottles last longer.
 
"Compiled"? It's all Titebond! (I still like these kinds of table though).
No, no, no. He had the non-biased approach confirmed by his inclusion of a single Gorilla product! That's balance reporting, no?

Thorough reporting. You're cool.

Nah.

but the table was interesting--thanks!
 
I’ve bought big bottles of Hobby Lobby this glue and poured them into little bottles, immediately resealing the big bottle (although I should stick it in fridge). The bigger bottles last longer.
You seriously don't realize that the "name brand" hobby shop glue is simply a large quantity of commercial glue poured into company-labelled little bottles??? You poor soul. You naivety pains me. Buy a gallon of Titebond II. Parcel out those 128 ounces into 4 oz containers. Sell as your own brand at nice mark-up. I'll skip saying it's "common" practice and shoot straight to it's "usual" practice.

Suckers.
 
Don't get your information from Amazon. Get it from DAP: https://www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/adhesives/glues-epoxies/rapidfuse-wood/ for the wood glue. The MSDS is there, too. Says the wood glue odor is "sharp". It's 65-85% ethyl cyanoacrylate, just like many other CAs. Also has 3-7% dimethyl sebacate, which is a plasticizer and can be a solvent for resins and rubber. Maybe that's what makes this CA decent/better for gluing wood, or could just be a thickener?

Dunno, but if Amazon's price of $9.89 for 4 OUNCES of high-CA adhesive is accurate, if it could replace the other CAs we usually use, it'd be cheap as chips. You can imagine it probably flows like most unthinned wood glues.

By the way, just checked MSDS for the regular Rapid Fuse you posted a pic of. Same two chems at the exact same concentration range, and also the odor listed as "sharp". They also say the regular stuff is great for wood, but I don't use CA to bond woods.

Read the reviews, many from professionals, at the DAP website. Amazon reviews can be useful, too, but I'd rather hear from the pros.

The CA adhesives labeled as "toughened" generally have a bit of rubber or plastic dissolved in them. Makes them much less brittle, and able to withstand impact better. The standard CAs are fine (great really) for balsa models and such, but for any industrial bonding, and definitely for metal to metal, or any joint that might flex at all, the "toughened" CA are a much better choice.

I have used the DAP product for making jigs and fixtures and such, seems to work fine, no brittle failures. But the claim about tougher than polyurethane - I don't see how that can be true. Polyurethane has inherently high ductility and toughness. Use the right glue in the right application. I think I have at least two dozen different adhesives in the glue cabinet...
 
I use CA on most of my low and smaller mid-power builds. Anytime I've had a failure on a fin from a hard landing on a surface-mounted fin, the fin always takes the cardboard with it. This indicates that the fin would have broken off regardless of what glue was used and has nothing to do with the CA being brittle. I've never had a failure with a TTW setup and CA.

That being said, I don't use it on larger models, and usually I don't use it on ply fins even on smaller rockets because CA has a tendency to wick into the layers of the plywood, and away form the two surfaces you're trying to bond. Wood glue or epoxy are better suited for plywood.
 
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