kelltym88
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2009
- Messages
- 3,991
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Hi Kevin,You mean the big black Estes ones that take two of the 7.2V battery packs?
If so, I have two and would be willing to part with one. I'd prefer cash over a kit that would just end up collecting dust in my basement.
-Kevin
Not the same product.
Agreed. Mine was an impulse (a PUN!! ) purchase off of eBay. It works fine and is my backup controller. I do not like any controller where I have to use both hands to launch - aka spring loaded safety switches. My normal controller makes quite an annoying racket to let you know its 'armed' without the use of a spring loaded switch.Wasn't implying that it was. It is a new product for his consideration. I do have a Command Control. I find it awkward.
Chas
Great minds.... I have exactly that. A foot switch in parallel with the main firing button. Some boy scouts poo poo on that... But then I normally only use it at private launches. And as I said, there is NO DOUBT when it's armed... it is quite loud.Build a foot controller.
For the safety switch use a key instead of a momentary button.
Switch the key on, launch with your foot, both hands free to shoot video.
I've always just disconnected the batteries when mine isn't in use.I have both a Command Control and one of the new NCR LaunchMaster controllers. I love the Command Control but it has one serious drawback I have run into several times now. If the yellow slider power control button is not left completely in the "off" position it will discharge the batteries, even if clips are not touching and power key is not inserted. I have now had several instances of showing up at a launch with a dead Command Control even though I completely charged it at home the day before. I now use masking tape to tape the power control button in the off position when not in use. This problem is not particular to a single Command Control. I have had the same thing happen with different units. Why this happens I have no idea but it is a serious drawback, showing up at a launch with a dead ccntroller.
I do miss NiCads not being as widely available as they once were. Yes, they have their shortcomings, such as memory issues. Still, they are light and they can put out a lot of current for a short amount of time without being damaged.What makes them unique is the 14v dual battery option. NiCads, tho have their issues, can dump a lot of amps. NiMh not as much. And of course my 20C transmitter lipo can burst about 36amp at 11v. When clustering, mo is usually better. If lighting one? I think an Estes Controller (made ematch safe) will light MJG ematches dipped in some goo to get your AP rocket rocketing.
Troj,I've always just disconnected the batteries when mine isn't in use.
NiCds are light? Compared to what, lead acid?I do miss NiCads not being as widely available as they once were. Yes, they have their shortcomings, such as memory issues. Still, they are light and they can put out a lot of current for a short amount of time without being damaged.
I remember having some NiCad “D” cells in the early 2000’s. They were considerably lighter than alkaline D cells. They were bright yellow. I forget the brand.NiCds are light? Compared to what, lead acid?
My problem with the NiCd’s is that, while they put out high current for short periods, they seemed to go flat pretty quickly and had to be recharged frequently. It has been two decades. Memory fades…Bright yellow were 'probably' sanyo.
LiPo is the way to go (or LiFe) but require safe practices.
Punny!Memory fades…
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