Human pinky finger. Still the best fin glue fillet tool available.
Two Dots of Superglue and the Fin is Tacked on Perfectly
- Thread starter brockrwood
- Start date
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Now we do the task that takes up 90 percent of model rocket construction time: Letting stuff dry.
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
In my experience, they aren't air bubbles per sē. They are voids created by the wood glue settling into the joint as the wood glue starts to dry. If they were air bubbles, you'd see them as soon as the fillet was applied.
And that's a good thing. The glue is going where you want it to go, to do the bonding you want it to do.
The body tube you are using... where did you get it from?
And that's a good thing. The glue is going where you want it to go, to do the bonding you want it to do.
The body tube you are using... where did you get it from?
If you slot your tubes and use tabs on your fins they will stay where you put them also - just sayin 
Good point! Yes, I had heard that, while maybe not pretty, the voids are evidence that your glue is flowing into the crevices, starting to cure, and doing its job.
This is a standard Estes 18 inch BT-60 body tube. These come in a three pack: https://estesrockets.com/product/003089-bt-60-body-tube/
Good point! Funny you should say that. At a recent "make and take" session for 50+ years old first time rocket builders, one team built a Quest "Payloader One" rocket which comes with a slotted body tube. The other team built a Quest "Full Moon" rocket that did not have a slotted body tube. The Payloader One was easy to assemble with the slotted body tube and matching fin set. The Full Moon gave us some trouble. The slick, shiny white body tube did not want to let the fins tack on, no matter how much we tried. We eventually resorted to using some CA glue to make them stay on.If you slot your tubes and use tabs on your fins they will stay where you put them also - just sayin
I have thought about putting slots in my scratch built rockets but have resisted. I am lazy. I would have to do some math and some careful measurements to make sure that the slots, the fin tabs, and the motor mount match up correctly. I would have to notch the fins to create the tabs. Then I would have to carefully cut out the slots, at the right spots, being careful not to cut too much.
I am just whining and complaining. I will try to cut out my own body tube slots on my next scratch build.
Oooo! I just checked out your Facebook page. Those are some very pretty models! Nice work!
Another layer of wood glue fillet. Fill in those holes! Use a tacky glue if necessary. Might even have to fill in during the finishing process for good looks.
Those bubbles/voids/whatever are inevitable with a liquidy wood glue, especially in the deep crevices where tubes join.
I make the first fillet very thin and then top it with Quick and Thick, and the end result is usually good. Even the Q+T can bubble on lug fillets, but it’s much less likely on the second layer.
I make the first fillet very thin and then top it with Quick and Thick, and the end result is usually good. Even the Q+T can bubble on lug fillets, but it’s much less likely on the second layer.
mh9162013
Well-Known Member
I'll second the Quick and Thick stuff; still bubbles on occassion, but far less than regular wood or white glue.
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
Store it upside down and it bubbles less.
An ice pick or toothpick helps to get the air voids out from the glue joint.
Tiny bubbles, in the glue, makes me nasty, makes me curse like poo.
Bubbles in the glue adds “character”.
For some reason I did not have success when I tried Aleene’s Tacky Glue the first time. Maybe I was using it incorrectly. I will try again.
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
nicely played...
Maybe you are just not tacky enough?
Breathing on the bubbles seems to help. Sometimes.
After using the Aleene’s Tacky Glue and still getting voids in my launch lug fillets, I have a new approach:
Does it look good from 10 feet away? Good enough.
I don’t see any air bubbles in the fillets…
Does it look good from 10 feet away? Good enough.
I don’t see any air bubbles in the fillets…
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
Kind of looks like an Olympic Torch....
OK, so now you have to explain the purple rocket, and the banner on it.
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It is a cool lamp made by a local Colorado artist out of found materials. My girlfriend got it for me as a present.Kind of looks like an Olympic Torch....
OK, so now you have to explain the purple rocket, and the banner on it.
The medals belong to my girlfriend. She got them participating in a triathlon many years ago.
My girlfriend loves me and gives me cool things.
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
Awesome. You're a blessed man @brockrwoodIt is a cool lamp made by a local Colorado artist out of found materials. My girlfriend got it for me as a present.
The medals belong to my girlfriend. She got them participating in a triathlon many years ago.
My girlfriend loves me and gives me cool things.
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i recently used up a bottle of loctite yellow, which was awesome... very fast set when finnin'. couldn't find another online so i bought some gorilla yellow. much slower set, but dries nicer and cleans well. imma try the ca method on the next set (at least the first fin) and see how it works. love learning new modelling mojo. regarding slotted tubes, i don't like 'em. when using pvc, or similarly dense material, i can see how they would be the way to go, but with paper it makes the base end of tube structurally fragile, easily creased. also, it smacks of E2X. like some others, i prefer old school difficulty. i enjoy fin patterns, tracing, and cutting; measuring shrouds, sanding down dowels, et al.
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
"with paper it makes the base end of tube structurally fragile, easily creased."
Only if the TTW fin can attachments are not properly implemented. The fins are glued to the internal motor tube, the fins are glued to the outer body tube and the internal motor tube is attached to the outer body tube via a front and rear centering ring. That construction is stronger in every aspect compared to just gluing the fins to the outside of the body tube.
Granted TTW construction may be overkill, depending on the design of the rocket, but there's nothing "structurally fragile" about a TTW fin can.
i see your point. not questioning post-construction. my little experience is with a cosmic explorer, which is slotted, and the sections between the slots at the base were creased in the package. same with a crossover isx (?) i think. tube is not 'true' cylinder, which kind of annoys me as well. for ballistics, who gives a pancake, but for modelling and tricking the eye it makes it more difficult. those little sections at the base soften a bit with the glue, then tear a little, and you better not have to turn that engine mount a little inside the tube after you insert it...
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
For sure requires a high skill level builder.
ALEENE'S shrinks but I get way fewer bubbles than Elmer's. Titebond trim glue is even better. With the patience of a Jedi I watch the tiny bubbles form and then pop them with a stick pin yelling "I gotcha you little b**terd!" But I also like to watch paint dry in our dry climate. Usually being able to tip or rotate the rocket to avoid runs, drip or errors.
A life spent watching paint dry for the perfect sheen is a life not wasted. You will walk the rice paper, not leaving a trace. You will snatch the pebble from the hand!Daddy, no offense but you need to get a life.
Understood, Master Po.
I shall endeavor to reach your exalted heights.
