TRF Tips and Techniques Comments Thread.

[SolarYellow]

Consider Where You Want Your Excess Glue to Go

When gluing two parts together, there is usually an inside part (eg coupler) and an outside part (eg airframe). Carefully consider where you apply the glue before mating.

• If you apply the glue to the inside of the outer part then the excess glue goes inside the assembly when you mate them.
• If you apply the glue to the outside of the inner part then the excess glue stays on the outside of the assembly.

Think about this up front, in regards to how you want the joint finished, cleanup, and any other requirements you may have.

And if you put it on the inside of the outer part and on the outside of the inner part, it goes everywhere. Which you may want. For example, with a long, sliding joint, the LE of a non-glued inserting part may tend to push the glue ahead of it. If that inserting part also has glue on it, it will tend to supply glue into the joint as it enters, helping make sure the joint is properly filled.

 

[cwbullet]

And if you put it on the inside of the outer part and on the outside of the inner part, it goes everywhere. Which you may want. For example, with a long, sliding joint, the LE of a non-glued inserting part may tend to push the glue ahead of it. If that inserting part also has glue on it, it will tend to supply glue into the joint as it enters, helping make sure the joint is properly filled.

Added today.

 

[cwbullet]

I am caught up on the daily posts. Keep em coming. There are few in the last two pages I can still use, but if you have a tip, post it here.

 

[cwbullet]

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/tips-and-technique-of-the-day-thread.177679/post-2466800
I'll make a comment that tinning wires that go into terminal blocks is not recommended. The solder creeps under pressure and can lose contact with the terminal over time. The wire also flexes where the solder stops and if the wire is moved or suffers vibration it can break at that point.

If you do tin the ends, support the wire and check that they haven't failed at the bend points, and tweak the screw on the terminal block occasionally.

Ferrules are the preferred method, with just twisting the wires the second. You can pick up a set of ferrules and a crimper for about $20 on eBay.

Concur and added to the commend. I almost never tin and almost always use solid wire or ferules.

 

[cwbullet]

Consider Where You Want Your Excess Glue to Go

When gluing two parts together, there is usually an inside part (eg coupler) and an outside part (eg airframe). Carefully consider where you apply the glue before mating.

• If you apply the glue to the inside of the outer part then the excess glue goes inside the assembly when you mate them.
• If you apply the glue to the outside of the inner part then the excess glue stays on the outside of the assembly.

Think about this up front, in regards to how you want the joint finished, cleanup, and any other requirements you may have.

Added for yesterday's tip.

 

[cwbullet]

Keep em coming guys.

 

[prfesser]

Consider Where You Want Your Excess Glue to Go

When gluing two parts together, there is usually an inside part (eg coupler) and an outside part (eg airframe). Carefully consider where you apply the glue before mating.

• If you apply the glue to the inside of the outer part then the excess glue goes inside the assembly when you mate them.
• If you apply the glue to the outside of the inner part then the excess glue stays on the outside of the assembly.

Think about this up front, in regards to how you want the joint finished, cleanup, and any other requirements you may have.

To ensure a good bond, apply glue liberally to the inside body tube, then a very thin wipe over the outside coupler. Just enough to give it a sheen. Little or no excess glue squeezes out but the surfaces of both parts get complete glue coverage.

 

[SolarYellow]

Another prep detail is to chamfer the ends, so you get a wedge of glue that wants to stay in the joint, rather than a sharp corner that tends to squeegee the glue ahead of the joint as the parts are mated.

 

[cwbullet]

Another prep detail is to chamfer the ends, so you get a wedge of glue that wants to stay in the joint, rather than a sharp corner that tends to squeegee the glue ahead of the joint as the parts are mated.

Added - thanks.

 

[cwbullet]

To ensure a good bond, apply glue liberally to the inside body tube, then a very thin wipe over the outside coupler. Just enough to give it a sheen. Little or no excess glue squeezes out but the surfaces of both parts get complete glue coverage.

Added thanks.

 

[cwbullet]

If you have a tip, let me know.

 

[John Kemker]

Don't Forget the Dollar Stores!

Dollar Tree sells most things for $1.25 US. In their automotive/hardware aisle, they often have zip ties in a couple of different sizes. If you're not needing permanent installation of the zip ties, the DT versions are pretty inexpensive. This also goes for small screwdriver sets, as is often needed for hooking up avionic, as well as small pieces of plywood and other items. Their Crafter's Square section often has sheet metal decor that can be easily cut and repurposed for various uses.

 

[ljwilley]

tip/technique submission:

An very easy way to make a paint stand with a large flower pot and a dowel:

1. find a large flower pot with a large hole in the bottom.
2. Find a dowel or pipe that will fit your rocket and fit through the hole in the pot.
3. Turn the pot upside down and place it where you plan to paint.
4. (optional) If you plan to use the pot later for something, cover it with something so it doesn't get painted.
5. Stick the pipe or dowel down the hole in the pot and place your rocket on top. Now your ready to paint!

*Depending on the size of the dowel/pipe and the size of the pot, you can use this stand to paint rockets from micro maxx size to huge high power rockets!

 

[cwbullet]

tip/technique submission:

An very easy way to make a paint stand with a large flower pot and a dowel:

1. find a large flower pot with a large hole in the bottom.
2. Find a dowel or pipe that will fit your rocket and fit through the hole in the pot.
3. Turn the pot upside down and place it where you plan to paint.
4. (optional) If you plan to use the pot later for something, cover it with something so it doesn't get painted.
5. Stick the pipe or dowel down the hole in the pot and place your rocket on top. Now your ready to paint!

*Depending on the size of the dowel/pipe and the size of the pot, you can use this stand to paint rockets from micro maxx size to huge high power rockets!

Added- thanks

 

[cwbullet]

Don't Forget the Dollar Stores!

Dollar Tree sells most things for $1.25 US. In their automotive/hardware aisle, they often have zip ties in a couple of different sizes. If you're not needing permanent installation of the zip ties, the DT versions are pretty inexpensive. This also goes for small screwdriver sets, as is often needed for hooking up avionic, as well as small pieces of plywood and other items. Their Crafter's Square section often has sheet metal decor that can be easily cut and repurposed for various uses.

Added to the list!

 

[cwbullet]

The next one is number 200. Does anyone have another tip?

 

[John Kemker]

Pointy End Up.

Unless it's not.

 

[ljwilley]

I have another one!

EROCKETS BODY TUBE SIZES

The Erockets body tube size chart is a VERY good way to find the perfect size body tube for your project! If you need an "oddball" size body tube for an upscale or downscale rocket, you can scroll down this chart until you find the right size tube. Most of the tubes are in stock at Erockets and they have enough sizes to get at least really really close the exact size you need. I have used this to find the body tubes I needed for lots of my projects.
Here is the chart: EROCKETS BODY TUBE SIZES

I hope someone finds this helpful!

 

[jqavins]

Balsa Machining is a similarly good resource. I don't know if maybe eRockets is better or maybe BMS is. It could be they compliment each other, each having one or two things the other doesn't. Or maybe not.

 

[cwbullet]

I have another one!

EROCKETS BODY TUBE SIZES

The Erockets body tube size chart is a VERY good way to find the perfect size body tube for your project! If you need an "oddball" size body tube for an upscale or downscale rocket, you can scroll down this chart until you find the right size tube. Most of the tubes are in stock at Erockets and they have enough sizes to get at least really really close the exact size you need. I have used this to find the body tubes I needed for lots of my projects.
Here is the chart: EROCKETS BODY TUBE SIZES

I hope someone finds this helpful!

Posted today.

 

[cwbullet]

Balsa Machining is a similarly good resource. I don't know if maybe eRockets is better or maybe BMS is. It could be they compliment each other, each having one or two things the other doesn't. Or maybe not.

Also a good reference.

 

[John Kemker]

Don't Stretch Electrical Tape

When wrapping anything with electrical tape, it's tempting to stretch it to tear it or stretch it as you wrap. You can stretch it while wrapping it, but at the end, do not stretch it. If you stretch it when laying the last inch or two down, it will pull and unwrap.

 

[OverTheTop]

As you say, keep at least the last couple of inches unstretched.

 

[Donnager]

Don't Stretch Electrical Tape

When wrapping anything with electrical tape, it's tempting to stretch it to tear it or stretch it as you wrap. You can stretch it while wrapping it, but at the end, do not stretch it. If you stretch it when laying the last inch or two down, it will pull and unwrap.

Agreed, and, if you want the taped joint to last, go ahead and buy good stuff. 3M/Scotch Super88 or something, not generic Harbor freight/Walmart stuff, that seems to just spread sticky, poorly.

 

[cwbullet]

Don't Stretch Electrical Tape

When wrapping anything with electrical tape, it's tempting to stretch it to tear it or stretch it as you wrap. You can stretch it while wrapping it, but at the end, do not stretch it. If you stretch it when laying the last inch or two down, it will pull and unwrap.

Added for 28 August.

I am behind two days; if anyone has a good tip, post it. It can be a video, or just about any tip or technique you use.

 

[neil_w]

Testors Micro Sponges are great for very fine paint touch-up work:

 

[cwbullet]

Testors Micro Sponges are great for very fine paint touch-up work:
View attachment 601014

Thanks - added for yesterday.

 

[neil_w]

Thanks - added for yesterday.

Those cheaper automotive sponges look great.

 

[cwbullet]

Those cheaper automotive sponges look great.

I have been using them for years (probably like you). I used to get the expired ones from dental clinics on military posts.

 

[John Kemker]

Inexpensive Burnishing Tools for Decals

Auto parts stores often carry "Body Filler Spreaders" for spreading bondo, glazing and spot putty, etc. onto vehicles. In addition to making great spreaders to even out epoxy, etc, they can also be used to burnish decals onto your rocket. Apply the decal as normal, but before removing the paper on the top of the decal, use the body filler spreader to burnish the decal onto the surface of your rocket. It can squeegee out air bubbles and give good, even pressure to the decal for best adhesion.