SSSSOOOOOO LONG!

[Art Upton]

I would say never trust manufacture's motor data. If you can't use real current data, at least use test data from an independent source, such as NAR S&T.

Well , Most manufactures post their results from TMT or S&T.

 

[Theory]

Moving along. The black on the payload came out very well considering the zero prep I did before I shot it.

will be sanding the primer with 320 grit then shooting another coat before moving on to color

 

[neil_w]

What's it like painting with the "high output tip" on the Rustoleum Professional? I already find that the 2x nozzles throw a pretty heavy spray.

 

[Theory]

What's it like painting with the "high output tip" on the Rustoleum Professional? I already find that the 2x nozzles throw a pretty heavy spray.

keep it moving and its fine. believe its more a pattern change than overall volume.

that stuff works well. used it for my WM Drago 4 (yellow, silver (aluminum) and black, and was very happy.

 

[cwbullet]

I want to buy one but I would like to buy it and the Goblin Max at the same time.

 

[Theory]

Will absolutely be adding a Goblin Max to my fleet when it’s released

 

[bjphoenix]

I want to buy one but I would like to buy it and the Goblin Max at the same time.

Estes F15 motors come 2 per pack so you probably should buy 2 kits, or maybe 3 so you'll still have one left after you run out of motors.

 

[PDawg]

Estes F15 motors come 2 per pack so you probably should buy 2 kits, or maybe 3 so you'll still have one left after you run out of motors.

You could always build one with a 24mm engine mount. I am a big fan of vertically long fins, my Vapors have never needed a fin repair and I can't say that about any other rocket I've built.

 

[NOLA_BAR]

What's it like painting with the "high output tip" on the Rustoleum Professional? I already find that the 2x nozzles throw a pretty heavy spray.

I have had good results with the Rusto Professional. You can get a good gloss coat in one outing. I typically do 2 base coats then the final wet coat all at once. You still need good surface preparation, I use a white primer like the Rusto 2x then sand to 600 grit. The paint is pretty good at filling any tiny scratches. One thing is to give it several days to completely cure before applying decals or taping for a second color.

Post #24 in the Nike Hercules gallery was done with Rusto Professional gloss white.

 

[SolarYellow]

I sprayed with a brand new can of Rusto Pro yesterday. It spit blobs of paint onto the rocket intermittently. Metallic, too, so no real way to save or blend it. Very annoying.

 

[bjphoenix]

I sprayed with a brand new can of Rusto Pro yesterday. It spit blobs of paint onto the rocket intermittently. Metallic, too, so no real way to save or blend it. Very annoying.

Painting is becoming a real pain in the butt these days. I've had horrible luck with Rusto so I recommend that everybody stay away from it. I've been trying Ace Hardware paint these days with reasonably good luck.

 

[Cape Byron]

Painting is becoming a real pain in the butt these days.

Just remember the advice from Tom Petty, "The painting is the hardest part."

 

[Handeman]

@Theory Let me know when you want to launch that and remind me to bring the club's Walston along. That small tx should fit just fine in there.

Nobody has used the Walston in years so I've usually left it home. Be fun to try some more RDF again. It's been years.

 

[prfesser]

Not sure you all are ready for this, please sit down and take a deep breath. The booster built with thickened epoxy:

Yup, one gram lighter.

Interesting indeed, and I found it a bit surprising. Epoxy is 100% solids; no solvent evaporating, so every bit that goes on the rocket remains there. Titebond, or any other wood/white glue, contains water that evaporates during hardening/cure. I would have thought that the evaporation would lower the weight of the TB. I was wrong.

I suspect that if wood glue was applied until the volume of the fillet appeared to be similar to that of the epoxy fillets, the difference in weight would be even greater. Another +1 for epoxy, even for LPR!

 

[Theory]

I suspect that if wood glue was applied until the volume of the fillet appeared to be similar to that of the epoxy fillets, the difference in weight would be even greater.

Based on what I saw here, believe this would be the case. Created fillets with Tite Bond that were quite robust though not the same size/volume as the epoxy fillets. These were then reinforced with the heavy paper pieces that were adhered and coated with "Tacky Glue."

It is worth noting that the epoxy used was heavily filled with colloidal silica which no doubt reduced the overall weight of the fillets when compared to "raw" epoxy.

Have an idea of a few experiments I would like to conduct regarding the pre and post cured/dry weights of these adhesives. Will get to those in due time.

 

[Theory]

@Theory Let me know when you want to launch that and remind me to bring the club's Walston along. That small tx should fit just fine in there.

Nobody has used the Walston in years so I've usually left it home. Be fun to try some more RDF again. It's been years.

Absolutely will do. Thinking it will be needed as she will be hard to see at 3,000'

 

[Theory]

Well as it would happen, “life” popped up and stalled this build for a bit.

No worries though, got back at it. Primed, sanded, filled, sanded, primed, sanded to a point where I was happy. She isn’t a museum piece but she will look good leaving the rod.

These are after 4 coats of gloss white:




Will let this cure for a few days then paint a few fins black as to match the stock paint scheme

 

[Theory]

They are complete and ready to fly!!!

 

[Ez2cDave]

Back in the late 80s and early 90s composite to BP staging was easy due to the available product back then that is not now.

You can still make "equivalent product" . . . Just substitute thin, stranded wire for the "central support". If you sheathe it with close-fitting ( "un-shrunk" ) heat-shrink tube, the burn is instantaneous !

REFERENCE SOURCE ONLY . . . If you have questions, PM me, but DO NOT discuss this product in this thread, please !

 

[Theory]

request we move the "homemade thermalite" discussion to a new thread

 

[Ez2cDave]

request we move the "homemade thermalite" discussion to a new thread

There has been no "discussion" . . . It was simply a "reference source" meant to support Art Upton's post, not intended to spark discussion or debate.

Dave F.

 

[Glasspack]

Theory .. NOW I want to buy that Estes KIT !!!

 

[Glasspack]

Very nice work !!!

 

[Theory]

Thank you!

 

[PDawg]

Looks great! I've had some issues with Rustoleum lately as well, a new can shouldn't spit out globs.

 

[Tim51]

They are complete and ready to fly!!!

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Beautiful work. Your build threads are always exemplary and a pleasure to read - thanks for posting!

 

[Theory]

thank you!

already thinking about the next one

 

[dpower]

Fantastic looking! And interesting data about the weights. I think I'll build my 2 at the same time also, that way I'll still have one left after the 1st flight. I did this with 2 Star Orbiters, got exactly 1 flight out of the first one, on an F15-8, and have one left.

I look forward to flight reports.