Rust-oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2X

[dixontj93060]

Finishing a couple of rockets for Midwest Power VII. Got some of the above stuff on sale a Menard's. I thought, hey, why not. Good brand, new formula (the 2X hype). MISTAKE. You think I'd learn. Like all Rust-oleum paints (with the exception of the metallic flake), this stuff also sucks. Starts with the stupid dry/recoat times like, handle in one hour but then also recoat within one hour (where's the sanding time?). Also their 24 hour window isn't really 24 hours--maybe 3 days--maybe more. Compatible with Rust-oleum Painter's Touch Primer. You'd think so, but no! Right on the edge of krinkle (after giving the primer 3 days of drying)...

Yeah, it sucks...

Oh, how I long for the old Krylon formula So simple and superb results. Here's to living in the past.

 

[hcmbanjo]

I've been using the Rustoleum Painter's Touch for a few months now with great results. I haven't had the problem with drying times like you have. Even living with central Florida humidity hasn't slowed down drying time for me.

This paint is different. It does spray on thick, so much so that I spray from farther away. The can is 12" away from the model I'm spraying. If you get too close, it could run.

On the other hand, I hate (and will not use) the original Rustoleum - it has a plaid stripe around the top of the spray can. Your results and drying times sound like the original formula. It takes forever to dry.

I haven't used Rustoleum primer, so I can't compare results. And, my experience with a Painter's Touch clear topcoat wasn't good. It crazed their base colors!

I know of a few modelers that have had good results with their initial use of the Painter's Touch. I hope Chan Stevens and EMRR won't mind me copying some copy from his recent review from the "Thunder" series:

"I shot one light coat of primer using Rustoleum's new 2x coverage paint, which tends to go on a bit heavy but dries fast and doesn't run very easily. I am really liking that line of paint versus the reformulated Krylon gunk.

After the primer coat, I lightly wet sanded it with 400 grit, then hit everything with a gloss white (again, Rustoleum 2x coverage)."

I agree with you about the new Krylon formula. I don't use it anymore.
It took me a couple of models to learn the best way to coat with the new 2x formula Rustoleum. I really don't pay too much attention to the suggested recoat times. I can re-spray an hour later or two days later. I doesn't seem to matter.

 

[El Cheapo]

I've had good luck with the Rustoleum 2x formula as well. I'll second that on the original Rustoleum paint. It sucks NS Rakes forever to dry even in Arizona. The 2x Clearcoat will craze if you spray it on too heavily. Use many light coats as per Rustoleum customer service. With that, I have had no problems.

 

[dixontj93060]

The exact problem was pinholes/bubbles where the paint didn't fill in and flow evenly across the primer. The primer layer was wet sanded with 320 grit about 3 hours previous to the paint application. And again the primer (again, same brand) had been applied about 72 hours earlier. The pinhole effect happened in two places drying to the ugly orange peel look.

 

[carl20320]

That sounds like you had some other issues going on. I used the same paint to paint my 7.75X upscale Estes Alpha III (on the cover of issue 84 of ER). I painted the entire rocket in 2 days. If you are wet sanding, are you sure everyting is COMPLETELY dry? Any moisture will cause the problem you are talking about.

I've been usind the Painters Touch on all my rockets for 5 years. The only time I had the pin holes was when I wet sanded and didn't get things dry enough.

And their paint is compatible with their primer.

 

[dixontj93060]

Could be. I usually allow time for air drying and for Krylon, which I'm most familiar with a wipe with, a paper towel and an hour is good enough. What has been your experience with 2X? Should I be doing something else (e.g., bringing out the blow dryer)?

That sounds like you had some other issues going on. I used the same paint to paint my 7.75X upscale Estes Alpha III (on the cover of issue 84 of ER). I painted the entire rocket in 2 days. If you are wet sanding, are you sure everyting is COMPLETELY dry? Any moisture will cause the problem you are talking about.

I've been usind the Painters Touch on all my rockets for 5 years. The only time I had the pin holes was when I wet sanded and didn't get things dry enough.

And their paint is compatible with their primer.

 

[luke strawwalker]

Could be. I usually allow time for air drying and for Krylon, which I'm most familiar with a wipe with, a paper towel and an hour is good enough. What has been your experience with 2X? Should I be doing something else (e.g., bringing out the blow dryer)?

Sometimes there's just NO substitute for taking enough time to get everything right. It's hard to do, I know, because I tried putting my Zooch Atlas in the pickup to 'bake' the Rustoleum Chrome paint dry, and it started forming a bubble after only about 40 minutes (with me turning it every 10-15 minutes to keep the sun heating even). I tried removing the rocket from the paint mount stick 24 hours afterwards and it was STILL so soft it embossed fingerprints all in it that I had to VERY carefully buff out.

I agree what your describing for regular paints (chrome is in it's own little world) does sound a bit excessive, but I'm not sure that breaking out the blow dryer is going to help. The wrinkling, lifting, fisheyes, pinholes, and other problems people are referring to sure aren't supposed to happen, but sometimes they do.

Usually getting in a hurry is the number one way to screw up a paint job though... Just saying...

Later and Good luck! OL JR

 

[blackjack2564]

Do NOT wetsand primer! Rattle cans any how, auto motive is another bird altogether! It is so porous , it will allow moisture to permeate it, and can and will take many days to completely dry. Especially on paper tubes.

Drysand the primer and shoot a coat or two of finish , then wet sand, then your final.Most[ notice I said Most primers] are very porous and if dry enough will dry sand just fine.
Think of primer like this.....the glue that holds wallpaper on...just something between the wall and paper to which the paper attaches.

Or in our case between the airframe and finish coat to which the finish bonds to.
For a premier finish.....prime and sand till satisfied. then lightly coat with primer, this will give " tooth" to which the finish can bite on to and hold with out runs and drips . Do not sand... then shoot the first one or two finish....then hard sand smooth...now your last finish coat.

You may have gotten away with it before, but sooner or later it will come back to bite you on the A$%!.

I've been using the new 2 coat stuff with great results. It's like the price of gas....we just have to adapt, change our ways a bit and get on with it.

Or you still can get the original Krylon at many Auto- outlets like A zone , pep boys Napa, but be prepared to pay 6-8 dollars a can! At that point you might as well use Dupli-color. '''[Which I do for top notch jobs]

 

[dixontj93060]

O.K. I will take your advice and not wet sand the 2X primer. I have done this previously many times with the standard Rust-oleum Stops Rust Primer with great results, but clearly the 2X primer behaves differently.

Regarding the comments on Duplicolor, I have to agree. I just rebuilt (carbon fiber/fiberglass) the farings for a motorcycle my son bought and shot the first coat last night using Filler Primer then Primer Sealer then Acrylic Enamel. Super easy application on very complex surfaces and a really great gloss finish.

Do NOT wetsand primer! Rattle cans any how, auto motive is another bird altogether! It is so porous , it will allow moisture to permeate it, and can and will take many days to completely dry. Especially on paper tubes.
....

Or you still can get the original Krylon at many Auto- outlets like A zone , pep boys Napa, but be prepared to pay 6-8 dollars a can! At that point you might as well use Dupli-color. '''[Which I do for top notch jobs]

 

[rocketsmith]

Sherwin Williams carries Krylon. @ 4 bucks a can. Problems with Krylon? Never happens to me. I love Krylon for solid colors.