Play-Doh masking

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

doug_kosty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
93
Reaction score
18
This was a totally strange idea that came to me as I was attempting to mask around an ACME launch lug. I really liked the red anodized finish, and I didn't want to get paint all over it but was totally flummoxed as to how I would cover it with masking tape.

A simple solution was found in the kids art bin - Play-Doh. It was simple to mold around the shape, adhered well enough, and did a fine job of protecting the lugs. My only caution is to not let the Play-Doh harden - it turns pretty hard and becomes difficult to remove.

Anyone have any other good ideas on how to mask complex parts?
 
There are commercial paint on masking liquids that I would imagine are kind of like thinned rubber cement. I've only seen the bottles but never used them.
 
From my scale modeling days,I used to use ROSS " Tac n Stik" as a mask.No residue ,can re-use several times as opposed to Silly Putty ,which can leave an oily residue on flat finishes.

Trust me ,this is the stuff to use.LaPages makes a similar item...stay away.It`s too soft and sticks to everything.

Blue Tac is the one you want (Ross)

Paul
 
Flashback .... these discussions often encourage memories from the dark recesses of my brain to come to the foreground.

When I was young, I recall softening candle wax and using it to form a mask for a rocket I was painting. I painted it on then, after it cooled, sprayed the model with spray paint. Once the paint dried, I peeled off the wax.

I recall that it worked okay. The advantage over just hand-painting was that the wax forms a smooth edge and you can nudge it to reshape it before it hardens. Also, if you make a mistake you can just peel it off and try again. This technique might be useful, not so much for masking parts, but for creating designs or patterns.

I did this about 30 years ago and my memory is fuzzy about how well it really worked. But, it might be an interesting thing to experiment with.

-- Roger
 
Last edited:
There are a number of Liquid brush on masks available from most well stocked hobby shops, Paint and Art supplies stores.
They all require overnight to dry and a minimum 2mil dry film for good "knifing". As with all unfamilar products there is a learning curve to proper use of these masks but the are fantastic for very intricate multi-surface compound curve applications.

for a surface like a launch lug area there is another product that is almost as good as a liquid mask. called Parafilm-M it's a stretched waxy press-on film that is exceptional in such applications. Like Liquid masks Parafilm-M also has a bit of a learning curve to its application but its a technique worth experimenting with:)

Tapes-08-sm_Liquid Masks_3 brush or spary types(128dpi)_07-30-06.JPG

Tapes-07-sm_Parafilm-M Masking film(128dpi)_07-30-06.JPG

Tapes-01a_Masks,Masking,Trim&Metal(128dpi)_07-30-06.jpg
 
for a surface like a launch lug area there is another product that is almost as good as a liquid mask. called Parafilm-M it's a stretched waxy press-on film that is exceptional in such applications. Like Liquid masks Parafilm-M also has a bit of a learning curve to its application but its a technique worth experimenting with:)

Parafilm is an excellent product but it does require some getting used to. It is a stretchy, tacky wax film. Very cool stuff but not the easiest to work with. It is only tacky enough to use in these kinds of situations if stretched but then it loses it's shape and gets a little too thin to use as an effective mask. It also isn't uniformly tacky which can cause problems when used as a mask. It does make a nice general large area mask however. It is also relatively expensive unless you know someone that works in a laboratory of some kind. It's used in science labs all the time for all kinds of sealing applications and is dirt cheap when bought in the typical huge rolls. I've seen the same thing repackaged in a much smaller size and sold in hobby stores for a fortune. Avoid this stuff if you can since you are really getting ripped off with the prices that are charged. For this product I'd say avoid it unless you know someone who can get it for you from a lab. With the learning curve needed to figure out how to use it effectively and the cost I'd say it's just not worth it otherwise.
 
A little hint about Parafilm.Awhile back I was at a chums place who makes beer and cultures his own yeast.I was checking out the culture dishes and noticed they were covered with a film.....it was Parafilm.Only difference was he bought it in huge rolls at a scientific instrument joint for a quarter the price i bought mine (local hobby shop)

Now i know.


Paul
 
I tried using Silly Putty for masking once; it didn't work very well. The spray paint solvents partially melted or dissolved it. I had not thought to try Play-Doh.

I have two rolls of Parafilm-M that I bought from Micro-Mark about 4 years ago. In that span of time, I have used it once. 'Nuff said.

I do nearly all of my paint masking with Tamiya masking tape. It has always performed brilliantly.

MK
 
Back
Top