New To The Sport :)

[kgcgold]

Even a 6" chute on the nose cone will probably be too big; that cone doesn't weigh much. If it were me, I'd cut a hole in the center of a 6" chute. Well, actually, I wouldn't the cone separate. No need to go chasing after extra parts, but that's just me...

Do you think even if weighted? I've added clay to the NC...

I may have to experiment for the sake of it, I'm curious what will happen...

 

[neil_w]

Three common options are:
1) Dope/Sanding sealer. That's what I used as a kit, works fine very stinky.
2) Thinned Elmers Carpenter's Wood Filler (plain variety, not "Max" or anything like that). Works OK but I'm not a huge fan. I'll still use it in some situations.
3) Papering: there are various approaches, I'm partial to self-stick label paper.

All approaches are commonly followed by a high-fill primer and lots of sanding.

For balsa nose cones and sometimes fins, thin CA is also used (also serves as a hardener to toughen up nose cones). I've found that thinned CWF on top of the CA gets me the best final result with the least effort.

If no one else supplies them, I'll scare up some links to all these various techniques when I get a chance.

 

[kgcgold]

You're having too much fun! Ought to be illegal....

You bet! Now if we could only find a good spot for launches. You don't realize how many trees are in the world until you look for an area without them! lol...

 

[neil_w]

Even a 6" chute on the nose cone will probably be too big; that cone doesn't weigh much. If it were me, I'd cut a hole in the center of a 6" chute. Well, actually, I wouldn't the cone separate. No need to go chasing after extra parts, but that's just me...

Yes to all off the above. It's hard to imagine any possible benefit of letting the cone come down separately, and increases the chance of losing it. And it's only going to maybe separate by drag separation or by gravity, so...

Obviously it's your choice to experiment with such things as you wish but this particular one seems to me to be all downside and no upside (insert your own rocket pun here).

 

[Fred Garvin]

You bet! Now if we could only find a good spot for launches. You don't realize how many trees are in the world until you look for an area without them! lol...

Even if you find a wide open field with just one scrawny tree in it.....your rocket will land in that tree.

 

[Bat-mite]

You bet! Now if we could only find a good spot for launches. You don't realize how many trees are in the world until you look for an area without them! lol...

If you don't mind sharing your city/state, we might be able to get you hooked up with a club. Most of here fly with local clubs.

 

[kgcgold]

Three common options are:
1) Dope/Sanding sealer. That's what I used as a kit, works fine very stinky.
2) Thinned Elmers Carpenter's Wood Filler (plain variety, not "Max" or anything like that). Works OK but I'm not a huge fan. I'll still use it in some situations.
3) Papering: there are various approaches, I'm partial to self-stick label paper.

All approaches are commonly followed by a high-fill primer and lots of sanding.

For balsa nose cones and sometimes fins, thin CA is also used (also serves as a hardener to toughen up nose cones). I've found that thinned CWF on top of the CA gets me the best final result with the least effort.

If no one else supplies them, I'll scare up some links to all these various techniques when I get a chance.

Thank you... Off to do some research...

 

[neil_w]

If no one else supplies them, I'll scare up some links to all these various techniques when I get a chance.

The section on building techniques on the NAR site (written by Chris Michielssen) includes an explanation of the thinned CWF method.

Here are my write-ups of papering with self-stick label paper: here and here (read both).

Here's K'Tesh's tutorial on CA'ing nose cones (I use a slightly different technique now, but this is a good start).

I can't seem to find his papering tutorial right now, but if you search you should be able to find it.

To emphasize: these are just a few examples, not the only (or even the best) way. Ask three rocketeers on the best way to do this and you'll get four answers. Hopefully this gets you started.

 

[K'Tesh]

Here's K'Tesh's tutorial on CA'ing nose cones (I use a slightly different technique now, but this is a good start).

I can't seem to find his papering tutorial right now, but if you search you should be able to find it.

Here it is Neil... https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?65628-Papering-balsa-ply-Fins-A-foolproof-method

Thanks for the plugs.

Oh, and on the subject of tutorials, Apogee has some good ones, as does John Cocker (www.jcrocket.com/)

I've got some on using OpenRocket, as does Neil (search for OpenRocket and tutorials). You can also search for parts and nosecone libraries... I'd look them up for you, but it's almost 1:30 am here in China.

 

[mpitfield]

I'm also considering wet sanding between clear coats, any experience with that process?

I have done this, but there is no need to sand between each coat. I typically lay down three coats let dry then wet sand using 600 first. If the clear looks too thin after sanding then I might lay down another 3 until it is smooth after sanding. Then I jump to 1000, 1500 and 2000 wet sanding. After all of the sanding is done I use a 3 step finish system, which are usually progressively finer pasts with the last mainly being more of just a gloss finish.

Not many people do this, and you could simply get great results just hitting it with a polish at this stage. But if you are a perfectionist then you will want to take it to the extreme. The one guy on TRF that gets spectacular results doing this is Nathan, look up some of his posts.

 

[kgcgold]

I have done this, but there is no need to sand between each coat. I typically lay down three coats let dry then wet sand using 600 first. If the clear looks too thin after sanding then I might lay down another 3 until it is smooth after sanding. Then I jump to 1000, 1500 and 2000 wet sanding. After all of the sanding is done I use a 3 step finish system, which are usually progressively finer pasts with the last mainly being more of just a gloss finish.

Not many people do this, and you could simply get great results just hitting it with a polish at this stage. But if you are a perfectionist then you will want to take it to the extreme. The one guy on TRF that gets spectacular results doing this is Nathan, look up some of his posts.

Okay cool... I've been snooping around some of the older posts you recommended, and the self stick label paper looks interesting, and I may consider that on a next build.

I have a few more kits coming in, but after looking around, I think I'm getting the itch to scratch build something. I should be saving all left over pieces. That's probably rocketeering 101 but, learning as we go...lol

But one things for sure, after noting some things you've said and looking around, I have a long ways to go with technique, because yes I am a perfectionist...lol

 

[rharshberger]

Okay cool... I've been snooping around some of the older posts you recommended, and the self stick label paper looks interesting, and I may consider that on a next build.

I have a few more kits coming in, but after looking around, I think I'm getting the itch to scratch build something. I should be saving all left over pieces. That's probably rocketeering 101 but, learning as we go...lol

But one things for sure, after noting some things you've said and looking around, I have a long ways to go with technique, because yes I am a perfectionist...lol

If you a going to scratch build, then there are two excellent sim programs for designing rockets. Open Rocket (free) and Rocsim 9 (not free, just over $100,available from Apogee).
Rocsim has more capabilites but Open Rocket is an excellent program too!

 

[kgcgold]

If you a going to scratch build, then there are two excellent sim programs for designing rockets. Open Rocket (free) and Rocsim 9 (not free, just over $100,available from Apogee).
Rocsim has more capabilites but Open Rocket is an excellent program too!

Nice, thanks...

 

[mpitfield]

the self stick label paper looks interesting, and I may consider that on a next build

Mark Hayes from StickerShock is the guy you need to speak with. The quality if his decals is top notch and he does wraps as well. Whenever I pick up a kit that has decals, if they are not up to standard I contact Mark. He also cuts masks if you want to paint the decals instead. If you look at the rocket in my pick, which is a Madcow Tembo called "Udder Mach" that is all paint and I used Mark's masks for this, which was the first time I ever used masks and they were great quality and the results speak for themselves.

 

[kgcgold]

Mark Hayes from StickerShock is the guy you need to speak with. The quality if his decals is top notch and he does wraps as well. Whenever I pick up a kit that has decals, if they are not up to standard I contact Mark. He also cuts masks if you want to paint the decals instead. If you look at the rocket in my pick, which is a Madcow Tembo called "Udder Mach" that is all paint and I used Mark's masks for this, which was the first time I ever used masks and they were great quality and the results speak for themselves.

Nice! The options are limited only by ones imagination! I love it...

 

[mpitfield]

Just as a follow up to the masking topic. I just did this over the last few days using a StickerShock mask that Mark made me. In fact he helped me with the theme of this rocket which was inspired by my feisty 7 year old daughter. This rocket is a 38mm MD GLR Mariah. This was more of an experiment and I am likely to sand it down an do it over again. This is because it was my first time using Plutonium spray paint, which is awesome BTW, and I had some issues learning how to use it, which is different than any other spray I have used. So there are some imperfections in it that can likely only be fixed by a redo, we will see.

 

[kgcgold]

Just as a follow up to the masking topic. I just did this over the last few days using a StickerShock mask that Mark made me. In fact he helped me with the theme of this rocket which was inspired by my feisty 7 year old daughter. This rocket is a 38mm MD GLR Mariah. This was more of an experiment and I am likely to sand it down an do it over again. This is because it was my first time using Plutonium spray paint, which is awesome BTW, and I had some issues learning how to use it, which is different than any other spray I have used. So there are some imperfections in it that can likely only be fixed by a redo, we will see.

Actually I like it, nothing wrong with mixing it up, they can't all be the same color right?

Hey, I have a question for you. What clear coat brand do you think is the best to work with? I have been using "wet look" by Testor, and there normal clears for a more flat look...

 

[mpitfield]

What clear coat brand do you think is the best to work with? I have been using "wet look" by Testor, and there normal clears for a more flat look...

I use Duplicolor Enamel gloss clear from a rattle can, Duplicolor Paint Shop lacquer gloss and matte clear from my HVLP, Rustoleum 2x gloss and matte clear from a rattle can, Krylon gloss clear from a rattle can, and I am just about to use the Plutonium gloss clear from a rattle can.

So far I have not found a clear that I am wowed over, possibly the Plutonium will do it. The Duplicolor Paint Shop matte is nice but it takes a very long time to completely cure, like weeks if not months until it hardens up. The Duplicolor Enamel gloss rattle can is nice but Enamel paints are a pain to use because of their re-coat windows plus the clear yellows with time. For a matte paint by far the best one I have used is the Krylon camouflage paints but their colour selection is very limited.

So far I have winners in primers and base coats but the top coat is elusive for me and I spend the most amount of time trying to fix it after painting. I just got a new HVLP 1.3 gun, dedicated for clear only, and from what I have been told, and have read, it should make clear easier to do...we will see. I will be using it within a few weeks along with the Devlibiss DeKups system and the Duplicolor Paint shop lacquer matte finish. I have laid this top coat down before, actually on the same rocket as this is a repaint, but I used a gun with a 1.4 tip. So it will be interesting to see if it makes any difference.

 

[Lowpuller]

I've had really good luck with Krylon lately but I can't find their clear coat locally.

 

[gpoehlein]

You bet! Now if we could only find a good spot for launches. You don't realize how many trees are in the world until you look for an area without them! lol...

I didn't see if you noted your location, but check ot the NAR website for a club in your area. You have to belong to the NAR to join a chapter, but most chapters, including mine, are always happy to host guest fliers. Not only will you usually find a larger field and nice launch equipment, but most members are friendly and helpful, and can answer most any of your questions about building and flying these beasts. And if you are lucky, you might even get to watch a few mid or high powered flights in the bargain.

 

[gpoehlein]

Oh, and one other suggestion - as serious as you seem to be getting in rocketry, invest in a copy of G Harry Stine's "Handbook of Model Rocketry". It is pretty much the bible for our hobby and will give you so much info that you will be amazed!

 

[kgcgold]

I didn't see if you noted your location, but check ot the NAR website for a club in your area. You have to belong to the NAR to join a chapter, but most chapters, including mine, are always happy to host guest fliers. Not only will you usually find a larger field and nice launch equipment, but most members are friendly and helpful, and can answer most any of your questions about building and flying these beasts. And if you are lucky, you might even get to watch a few mid or high powered flights in the bargain.

Thank you very much...

We are in Kansas City Missouri, if you know anyone in our neck of the woods...

Thank you for the welcome! :w:

 

[dhbarr]

Thank you very much...

We are in Kansas City Missouri, if you know anyone in our neck of the woods...

Thank you for the welcome! :w:

Be sure to check out Tripoli ( TRA ) as well, may be closer / more convenient.

 

[Fred Garvin]

Oh, and one other suggestion - as serious as you seem to be getting in rocketry, invest in a copy of G Harry Stine's "Handbook of Model Rocketry". It is pretty much the bible for our hobby and will give you so much info that you will be amazed!

Since you already have great building skills, I suggest Tim's latest book:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NKD9AS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I use that one quite a bit and there's some really great info in it. Add this one in HPR:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1412058104/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

.....and you'll have a fine base of reference material to keep in the shop, plus good stuff to read, re-read, browse.....