No.
Lighted Magnifying lamp diopter power for SMT circuit board soldering
- Thread starter gcanroc
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The Weller WE1010 is also good value.
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WE1010NA-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B077JDGY1J
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WE1010NA-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B077JDGY1J
This is what I use for my home projects, and it has worked out very well.
+1 on the recommendation.
As stated by Cris himself, The most basic $10.00 Soldering iron is all Ya need to assemble Eggy stuff. I know that to be true because I've done it without issue. Unless you're going to be doing this kinda stuff full time, there's no "need" for anything more. I do "get it" though,
new/bigger/better tools are always fun, at least for a while. Then you realize you have to now, instead of just tossing your iron in a drawer, find a place to store your over sized do everything station that'll maybe be used a few times a year at best. I do recommend spare tips though, they don't last forever and will always fail in the middle of a project, usually at night after all the stores are closed
new/bigger/better tools are always fun, at least for a while. Then you realize you have to now, instead of just tossing your iron in a drawer, find a place to store your over sized do everything station that'll maybe be used a few times a year at best. I do recommend spare tips though, they don't last forever and will always fail in the middle of a project, usually at night after all the stores are closed
I agree with you in the context of building an occasional Eggtimer product. However, there are some who use their irons for more frequent projects outside this hobby that warrant more than a $10 iron. Like most things in life, sometimes Harbor Freight is a great solution while other times it’s something more.
Agreed. I tend to find the need to solder "something" probably once a month. For larger stuff I have an old as dirt Craftsman 500 watt? soldering gun. Everything else is done with either the H.F. cheapy or the basic/classic Weller non-digital iron/station. I also have a sub $10 wood burning iron I bought specifically for cutting ripstop nylon. Only reason I grabbed it was the included tip assortment, prior to that I'd just use the gun with a crappy tip. Functional but not convenient nor pretty.
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gcanroc
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Would anyone know if Hakko tips are interchangeable with Weller tips??
Geoff
Geoff
Here's everything and more than you'd ever need or care to know. Apparently the biggest selling point is 30 percent of you're sub 0.5 minute "warm up" time..https://vsearch.com/weller-vs-hakko/
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They are not.
Weller has always been my "go to" , I have what is basically the same but no digital readout. Think I paid 40 bucks for it. Dial goes to 5 (sorry, but you cannot turn it up to 11 no matter how badly Ya want to). I normally just leave it cranked all the way up and use time of contact as my heat control. Was taught a LONG time ago by an ancient welder that'd crank any machine all the way up settings wise and tell you to "weld, dammit" he could and did produce some of the best welds I've seen in my life on anything ranging from 22 Ga sheet metal to 1/2" plate w/out changing a setting. His line was "if there's a problem, it's you, not the machine".
Probably not a good idea. Welding maybe somewhat, but not soldering PCAs. With the iron flat out I guess the temperature is around 350C (hard to tell without an iron thermometer, but a rough guess based on my past experience). If it is a lead-free soldering iron it is more likely around 400C. Normal 60/40 Sn-Pb solder melts at 183C, and solders well at anything from about 220C upwards. I run around 250C normally. The fiberglass the PCB is made of has a glass transition temperature of around 140-160C, so the less you go above that the less you are melting the PCB. The bonding between the Cu pads and FG is also sensitive to temperature and the excess heat weakens the bonding making it easier to pull a pad off. It also reduces the ability to rework the PCA if something has been assembled wrong. You might get one rework if you use too much heat, and perhaps up to five if using a lower temperature on the iron. High temperature soldering, from a materials science POV, is not good practice for reliability.
When I was taught welding by my dad he set the welder to 100A when I was learning. I agree that anyone can make a decent looking weld at 100A. As the skill level increases you can weld with much more finesse at lower currents, treating the workpieces much more gently. FYI, soldering is a lot like welding. It is about getting the two parts to the same temperature at the same time.
gcanroc
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...at a certain temperature, isn’t solder spatter an issue. Which brings me to ask how useful is this instrument for a newbie solderer:
191 Soldering Temperature Tester Electrical Soldering
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8SHLCS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A36ZH2MCHPKXUA&psc=1
191 Soldering Temperature Tester Electrical Soldering
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8SHLCS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A36ZH2MCHPKXUA&psc=1
You only need that if you think you do. The second you touch either a part or solder itself that temp will change. If it were me I'd spend the 12 bucks on spare tips..
I've never found spatter to be a real world issue. I've had minor at best, and it almost always just "drops" off. If you're intent is Cris's Eggtimer stuff, I can assure you you'll not have a problem. He includes some "low temp" solder that'll make Ya feel like a pro the first time you use it.
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Unless you are really aiming to finesse your technique then I wouldn't bother. Good price though. It is a Chinese version of the Hakko thermometer.
The surplus Metcal was an MX-500 and came from eBay; I don’t remember how much I paid, but it was under $100. The free one (from a company shutting down) was an SP-200. I wouldn’t trade them for anything, but I DO solder a LOT
. I do some work stuff at home sometimes. Not hot air though
[jealous icon]
gcanroc
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In golf everyone is looking for a way to shoot a better round. Countless of times I’ve asked my pro about better clubs to help lower my score. His response has always been...
“Is it the Indian or the arrow”??
Geoff
That's a great quote. Personally I've not golfed in over 30 years, but have a few buddies that are obsessed. One of 'em let me hit a few junk balls in his back yard with his super duper Ti/Graphite/something else driver. It seemed impossibly light and incredibly easy to swing. Had the coolest ringing sound to it, made me want one immediately. Not positive but I think he said "around" $350 when I asked. All I could do at that point was laugh..
gcanroc
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Quantum eggtimer finished!!!
Although I paid only $30 for the Quantum, I've invested $$$ in soldering equipment. But the bottom line is that I think I have a bona fide working flight computer. Thank you for all the helpful advice and suggestions to help me accomplish it. Two questions:
1) When I plug in my lipo battery I get two short "beeps" and one long one, The instructions say I should get three beeps, then a long beep. Has anyone else experience this?? Everything seems to be working fine, I can access the WiFi on the Quantum and everything seems to set up normally.
2) If I plug a LED bulb into the main/drogue can I test my Quantum's deployment circuit that way???
Again thx for all the help.
Geoff
Although I paid only $30 for the Quantum, I've invested $$$ in soldering equipment.
But the bottom line is that I think I have a bona fide working flight computer. Thank you for all the helpful advice and suggestions to help me accomplish it. Two questions:1) When I plug in my lipo battery I get two short "beeps" and one long one, The instructions say I should get three beeps, then a long beep. Has anyone else experience this?? Everything seems to be working fine, I can access the WiFi on the Quantum and everything seems to set up normally.
2) If I plug a LED bulb into the main/drogue can I test my Quantum's deployment circuit that way???
Again thx for all the help.
Geoff
I'm with you on the "investment" we're making. I ended up buying a low-end Metcal hot air station and have built several Eggtimer products with it now - spendy, but what a difference it makes!Quantum eggtimer finished!!!
Although I paid only $30 for the Quantum, I've invested $$$ in soldering equipment.
1) When I plug in my lipo battery I get two short "beeps" and one long one, The instructions say I should get three beeps, then a long beep. Has anyone else experience this?? Everything seems to be working fine, I can access the WiFi on the Quantum and everything seems to set up normally.
2) If I plug a LED bulb into the main/drogue can I test my Quantum's deployment circuit that way???
Again thx for all the help.
Geoff
Regarding the LED, they need some form of current limiting (there are some with integrated current limiting, but they're not the common ones) and they are also polarity sensitive. The final issue that I can think of is they start producing light with relatively low levels of current. I agree with @Wallace that an incandescent bulb is a better choice for really testing out the drive strength of the outputs.
I'm using an automotive side marker 12v bulb. Soldered a couple of wires to it.Quantum eggtimer finished!!!
Although I paid only $30 for the Quantum, I've invested $$$ in soldering equipment.
1) When I plug in my lipo battery I get two short "beeps" and one long one, The instructions say I should get three beeps, then a long beep. Has anyone else experience this?? Everything seems to be working fine, I can access the WiFi on the Quantum and everything seems to set up normally.
2) If I plug a LED bulb into the main/drogue can I test my Quantum's deployment circuit that way???
Again thx for all the help.
Geoff
gcanroc
Custom title
Still when I plug in my lipo battery to the “Quantum” I get two short "beeps" and one long one, the instructions say I should get three beeps, then a long beep. Has anyone else experience this?? Everything seems to be working fine, I can access the WiFi on the Quantum and everything seems to set up normally.
...any input on the two beeps then long beep vs three beeps then a long beep on power up??
...any input on the two beeps then long beep vs three beeps then a long beep on power up??
I just fired up my Quantum. I get a very short beep, then two longer beeps that are the same and then a long beep.
I just fired up my second Quantum and I get 2 shorter beeps and then a long one.
gcanroc
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....good to hear, maybe Mr Cerving could chime in and possibly clear up a possible type O.
Geoff
