Level 1 kit selection?

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Originally posted by Mad Rocketeer
I had a similar thought, but changed my mind. I had bought an LOC/Precision Graduator to "graduate" on, after doing mid-power flights with it first. The good people here spoke wisely to me and shared the sim information, and I'm now convinced that my Graduator should be used strictly as mid-power bird to learn on (and of course to enjoy in that role) and that when I decide to go for my L1 cert, I need a larger bird. My Grad is built somewhat heavy (part of my learning, I guess), so I'll have to fly it on E30's up, probably, but it's still not an L1 bird. It's plenty strong for that purpose, but an H would send it to too high. A certification flight should be nice and predictable/recoverable, and sending it up 5000+ feet is not really compatible with that profile.

It may be (from what I'm reading here) that the choice of an LOC Aura to cert on may benefit from similar re-thinking.

Good thought. Something more the size of a LOC 4 would be more suitable for L1. Keeping it low and slow isn't a bad thing for cert at any level. Make things easy on your cert team and yourself.

Al
BRS VP
NAR L2
 
Hi,
I guess this thread's been kinda dead for a while now, but I didn't want to start a new one. I just have a few questions about my Binder Excel.

Step 6 calls for a quick link in the screw eye in the forward CR, and then the attachment of the Nylon Strap to the quick link. My question is, how exactly do I attach it to the quick link? Is there a special knot I need to use? Should I use epoxy?

I have 15 and 30 minute epoxies. Whick do I use for what? Sometimes the instructions tell me which parts to use it for, but other times, like attaching centering rings to motor tubes, it isn't specified. I know 30 minute will do the job 15 minute can, but I would like to conserve...

Though the instructions say to put the aft CR flush with the fin slots, this is also flush with the bottom of the body tube (on all the pictures it looks like it's further up in the main body tube). Then you're supposed to I guess fillet the joint between the CR and BT. Is this still necessary, if the CR is flush with the end of the body tube? The body tube's pretty thin, so I dunno how much it'll do...

Do I really need to sand an airfoil into the fins? I don't have a belt sander, I only have sandpaper and a dremel with a sanding drum. Does an airfoil actually take off a layer of wood from the surface of the fin, or is just meant to sorta round out the shape of the edges?

That's all for now. Thanks a lot!

Jesse
 
Originally posted by f16fan12
Hi,
I guess this thread's been kinda dead for a while now, but I didn't want to start a new one. I just have a few questions about my Binder Excel.

Step 6 calls for a quick link in the screw eye in the forward CR, and then the attachment of the Nylon Strap to the quick link. My question is, how exactly do I attach it to the quick link? Is there a special knot I need to use? Should I use epoxy?

Check out PML's website for the correct knot to use for TN. https://secure.consumersinterest.com/pml/components.asp?groupid=13.. Sroll down the page and click the link "How PML recommends you tie tubular nylon". Personally, I use tubular kevlar with presewn loops. If you're using the TN, get a nomex/kevlar shock chord protector or else after a few flight the TN could burn through. TN is not heat resistant. Tubular kevlar is. You can get shock chord protectors at Giant Leap Rocketry (www.giantleaprocketry.com/hpdefault.asp).
Also, pick up a kevlar chute protector from them as well. It's much easier than using recovery wadding/cellulose packing to protect your recovery system.

I have 15 and 30 minute epoxies. Whick do I use for what? Sometimes the instructions tell me which parts to use it for, but other times, like attaching centering rings to motor tubes, it isn't specified. I know 30 minute will do the job 15 minute can, but I would like to conserve...
I use 12-15 minute to tack CRs and fins in place. I use 45 minute mixed with milled fiber for fillets around the CRs and all the fin fillets. You want to use a longer cure epoxy for the fillets because it will have more time to seep into the wood and paper and create a stronger bond. Also, the longer cures result in more epoxide chemical bonds; the more epoxide bonds, the stronger it is.

Though the instructions say to put the aft CR flush with the fin slots, this is also flush with the bottom of the body tube (on all the pictures it looks like it's further up in the main body tube). Then you're supposed to I guess fillet the joint between the CR and BT. Is this still necessary, if the CR is flush with the end of the body tube? The body tube's pretty thin, so I dunno how much it'll do...

First, be certain you have your motor retention figured out and installed before epoxying in that aft CR. Yes, you can mount the aft CR flush with the body tube. Use a 45 minute epoxy to attach the CR, then once dry use 45 minute mixed with milled fiber and coat around the edges. I also leave a small amount (~1/4") of the motor mount sicking past the lower CR so I can fillet around that and make sure everything is sticking in place.

Do I really need to sand an airfoil into the fins? I don't have a belt sander, I only have sandpaper and a dremel with a sanding drum. Does an airfoil actually take off a layer of wood from the surface of the fin, or is just meant to sorta round out the shape of the edges?

Yes, you should airfoil. There will be a lot more drag with a "flat" fin edge. Airfoiling just means to taper the leading - and sometimes trailing - edge of the fins. Just the last 1/8" or so. The rest of the fin should be left as is. Rounding off is fine, though I use a disc sander with a jig I made to taper to fairly sharp edge.

HTH.
 
Thanks a lot for your answers. A couple more questions:

1. The kit came with at least 11 ft of tubular nylon. Should I use all of it in the rocket?

2. How exactly does the nose cone stay on? It doesn't look like in the instructions that it's ever tied or glued to anything.

Jesse
 
1. Yep, use it all.

2. I just screw mine in with one or two screws normally. I wouldn't glue it in, just in case you ever decide to get the Avionics bay and try Dual Deploy.
 
Originally posted by f16fan12
2. How exactly does the nose cone stay on? It doesn't look like in the instructions that it's ever tied or glued to anything.

Do you have the Excel or Excel Plus? I didn't think the normal Excel had a payload. So..

If it has a payload, the TN would be connected to an eyebolt on the payload with a quicklink. To hold the nose cone onto the payload, I use PML's plastic rivets. Place the nose cone onto the payload bay, drill the appropriate sized hole through the payload tube AND nose cone. Then you just pop in the rivet and secure by pressing on the tab. Use three equally spaced around the diameter of the tube. To remove the rivets, just pull out. Much easier than screws and holds the NC on plenty securely.

Without the payload, just make sure the nose cone is snug, but not tight, fitting onto the body tube. Attach the TN to the nose cone by quicklink using the attachment point on the nose cone.
 
I have the Excel, and there is a payload bay. It looks like on the nose cone there's a piece sorta sticking out that makes a sorta loop, which maybe you're so supposed to tie something to. But in the instructions it does't mention anything about gluing or using rivets...uch, just another cost.

Thanks.
 
Originally posted by f16fan12
I have the Excel, and there is a payload bay. It looks like on the nose cone there's a piece sorta sticking out that makes a sorta loop, which maybe you're so supposed to tie something to. But in the instructions it does't mention anything about gluing or using rivets...uch, just another cost.

Thanks.

With a payload bay, the nose cone doesn't attach to anything. It just sits in the tube. Use my suggestion in the above post in how to retain the nose cone so it doesn't fall off. You could also wrap a lot of tape around the end to make a tight fit, but I hate this idea...there's still a chance you could lose the nose cone. Use the plastic rivets. A bag of about 25 goes for about $4. There probably is a place on the nose cone to attach shock cord to. In this case you don't use it (the shock chord attaches to an eyebolt on the end of the payload bay), but DON'T cut it off!! If you ever set the rocket up for dual deploy (that's a much longer thread/discussion and not necessary for your L1), you will need that attachment point.
 
Originally posted by f16fan12
I have the Excel, and there is a payload bay. It looks like on the nose cone there's a piece sorta sticking out that makes a sorta loop, which maybe you're so supposed to tie something to. But in the instructions it does't mention anything about gluing or using rivets...uch, just another cost.

Thanks.
If you have some plastic rivets laying around, then they are easier to get out should you need to. However, I find it easier just to walk down to the basement and find a screw laying around than placing a special order, or making a special trip, for some rivets.
 

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