Help with Igniters

[Eyesinthesky]

I've heard for along time that dipped e-matches will pop their top upon ignition and I made a video about I test I did this weekend. It shows how the e-match will blow the Pyrogen off and did not light it. What can be done to ensure the Pyrogen will burn?

 

[OverTheTop]

How about leaving one side really thin so when it lights up from the inside it doesn't blow the rest away? Not sure, but that is my first best guess. You could even leave the very end open (or very thin) so it burns back from the tip, a bit like a match.

Burn rates are usually pressure sensitive, so if you leave somewhere where the pressure can go it will moderate the burn and not blow the lid off it. Maybe .

 

[OZRoc]

IMHO
I really think that would entirely depend on what you are dipping your ematch in.
Binder/pyrogen composition will depend on the bonding with the initial/original ematch.
Ematches are designed to blow as is and are probably coated with a sealer to negate humidity ingress.
Maybe lightly scuff the eMatch head w/ 300-400 emery before dipping will produce a better result.
Cheers, Mark

 

[Eyesinthesky]

Here is the latest test.

 

[Cameron Anderson]

That latest test looks pretty good to me. Where did you source the pyrogen?

 

[rharshberger]

I have heard somewhere about cracking the ematch pyrogen, then coating with igniter pyrogen. I have never tried it as I make my own igniters. Of course if you want to use the ematch head you can dip the pyrogen coated match head into lacquer thinner for a bit then brush it off and re-dip in igniter pyrogen, however some igniter pyrogens are not sensitive enough to light before the nichrome bridge wire burns through.

 

[Eyesinthesky]

That latest test looks pretty good to me. Where did you source the pyrogen?

It was quickdip from quickburst.

 

[OKTurbo]

Are you looking for a low current igniter for air starts? Or similar? E-matches are normally for ejection charges fired off altimeters with 9 volt batteries. It takes very little for them to fire and it takes very little to ignite the black powder.

If you’re wanting to make igniters for the motor off the pad, I suggest the old nichrome wire wrap and dip. I’ve bought pre-wrapped and dipped them myself. Also used old cat5 wire scraps to wrap and dip my own. These give a more sustained burn to get the APCP going.

A couple sessions making these and your set or life!

 

[blackjack2564]

You already did it. I was going to suggest folding match so pyrogen had more wire to bind to. Looks like it solved your issue.

 

[quickburst]

I've heard for along time that dipped e-matches will pop their top upon ignition and I made a video about I test I did this weekend. It shows how the e-match will blow the Pyrogen off and did not light it. What can be done to ensure the Pyrogen will burn?

This is very common. E-Matches are not very good candidates for dipping. Unless the pyrogen is not brittle.

The best thing I've seen for dipped E-Matches is the ProCast ..... works each and every time. E-matches dipped in ProCast are the answer to most problematic ignition sources. Works great for AirStarts, Clusters and off the pad.

See:
https://quickburst.net/qb/procast-order-page/

 

[quickburst]

Here is a video showing ProCast being used with E-Matches.

No Problem

See:
https://quickburst.net/qb/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/ProCast-E-Match-Ignition-2.mp4

 

[Eyesinthesky]

Thanks David, I'll order some right away.

Doug

 

[Cameron Anderson]

Here is a video showing ProCast being used with E-Matches.

No Problem

See:
https://quickburst.net/qb/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/ProCast-E-Match-Ignition-2.mp4

Did you use a mold or specific technique to cast the procast? Those ignitors look too uniform to just be dipped.

 

[quickburst]

Did you use a mold or specific technique to cast the procast? Those ignitors look too uniform to just be dipped.

When my friend first exposed me to ProCast I did a lot of testing. I tried Hot Wire Ignition and I tried E-Matches, both were satisfactory. The examples in the video are ProCast mixed then stabbed with a straw several times. This fills the straw to the desired level and is quite simple. After its stuffed all you do is push the match or Hot Wire in from the bottom then set to dry overnight. When using e-matches I push it all the way to the top. I stop when I can see the match sitting a little proud at the top.

Since then I have learned that its best to cut along the side of the cured ProCast straw container. Just short slits down the side, It takes about three of these to
"get er done" I have also found that the target weight is easier to reach.

You can also cast pellets by drilling 1/4" holes in a cheap Walmart cutting board, fill the holes with ProCast, allow to cure, then poke them out with a Dowell rod. This is used for Head End Ignition, which is another can of worms and I believe its best to avoid it. You would be carrying a rocket to the pads with the starter pre installed which is not allowed under TRA safety rules (and for a good reason).

 

[quickburst]

Thanks David, I'll order some right away.

Doug

Thank you Doug, I appreciate that. Your order should leave here tomorrow.

 

[Cameron Anderson]

When my friend first exposed me to ProCast I did a lot of testing. I tried Hot Wire Ignition and I tried E-Matches, both were satisfactory. The examples in the video are ProCast mixed then stabbed with a straw several times. This fills the straw to the desired level and is quite simple. After its stuffed all you do is push the match or Hot Wire in from the bottom then set to dry overnight. When using e-matches I push it all the way to the top. I stop when I can see the match sitting a little proud at the top.

Since then I have learned that its best to cut along the side of the cured ProCast straw container. Just short slits down the side, It takes about three of these to
"get er done" I have also found that the target weight is easier to reach.

You can also cast pellets by drilling 1/4" holes in a cheap Walmart cutting board, fill the holes with ProCast, allow to cure, then poke them out with a Dowell rod. This is used for Head End Ignition, which is another can of worms and I believe its best to avoid it. You would be carrying a rocket to the pads with the starter pre installed which is not allowed under TRA safety rules (and for a good reason).

I'm actually looking for a good HEI method, hence my interest. There are ways to do HEI within TRA guidelines and to do so safely.

 

[quickburst]

To All

I have a video that may interest you. It's called OEM Motor Starter Enhancement.

Watch and let me know what you think.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yjK8mLxuK24S0kzG4aznaTPvgbMhcFDw/view?usp=sharing