Gah... How does everyone paint so well?

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Stizzealth

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I was recently looking at some rocket in the various sections of the forum, especially LPR. And while doing so I noticed a lot of very cool, smooth paint schemes. The part that's worst is that those schemes are considered 'simple' I have a hard enough time priming my rocket gray then spraying the fins white, as when I took off the normal masking tape I used to mask it, it took off a little bit of the primer with it. :( Take the Deuce's Wild stock paint job. It as 2 colors which meet together at the middle of the rocket in a gentle curve. How in the world is that curve done so nicely? And the shine, and everything? My finishing techniques are abominable, I am sure. I just want to make a rocket that looks half respectable. I am CERTAINLY willing to put time, effort, and supplies into this... It's the technique that befuddles me.
 
Stizzealth: While I'm not the best painter, I typically get fairly nice finishes. The key to masking for multiple colored paint schemes is NOT to use masking tape...it will strip the paint off. Use the blue "painters" tape. It's low tack so it shouldn't peel the paint with it. You still have to be sure that the paint is cured before applying the painter's tape. If using Krylon, one or two days seems to be sufficient for me. Also, after applying the tape make sure it is firmly down at the edge and that there are no bubbles, etc. Then, a light spray of Krylon Crystal Clear at the edges of the tape can "seal" the edge and minimize bleed through.

Just my suggestion...
 
Originally posted by Stizzealth
I was recently looking at some rocket in the various sections of the forum, especially LPR. And while doing so I noticed a lot of very cool, smooth paint schemes. The part that's worst is that those schemes are considered 'simple' I have a hard enough time priming my rocket gray then spraying the fins white, as when I took off the normal masking tape I used to mask it, it took off a little bit of the primer with it. :(
1) Make sure that the first coat is COMPLETELY dry before applying the masking tape. The minimum is 24 hours, but I usually wait longer.
2) Use low-tack masking tape. I use Kleenedge brand; others have had good luck with Scotch Safe-Release.

Take the Deuce's Wild stock paint job. It as 2 colors which meet together at the middle of the rocket in a gentle curve. How in the world is that curve done so nicely?
It looks like a curve because it is on a curved surface. It's actually done using two pieces of straight masking tape.
Correction: There is a paint masking template for the DW.
And the shine, and everything? My finishing techniques are abominable, I am sure. I just want to make a rocket that looks half respectable. I am CERTAINLY willing to put time, effort, and supplies into this... It's the technique that befuddles me.
You'll probably get many replies, but here's what I've had good luck with:
a) Start with a good sandable primer. I use Rustoleum Painters Choice or Kilz. Apply the first coat pretty heavy; don't worry about runs. After the primer dries, sand most of it off. You want to get back down to bare material everywhere except in the grain of the wood and the spirals on the tube. Repeat.
b) Put one or two light coats of primer. Allow to dry. Sand lightly with 400-grit sandpaper.
c) Apply one or two LIGHT coats of gloss finish color. Use wet sandpaper (600 or finer) between coats.
d) Apply decals.
e) Apply optional clear-coat. Many people use clear spray. I like to use Future acrylic floor polish. After it dries, buff it.
 
I wrote a handout for 4-H kids which walks them through the steps of getting on a decent basic paint job and I'd be glad to send you if you give me an email address. Most of it I gleaned from various posts here added with a bit of what I picked up by helping kids through it.
 
For the record, we ALL don't paint so well. I'm happy when my finishes look good from 5 ft :)
 
It is a good thing we can't upload full resolution images, then all our little mistakes would really show :D.

-Paul
 
even when I do get a really good finish, it doesn't last. all well-loved rockets get battle scars :) get a picture of it when it looks nice and go fly it.


the turning point for me was watching the prep and painting techniques movies in Apogee's "Building Skill Level 1 Rockets" disk. I highly recommend getting a copy, it's more than just skill level 1.
 
by far the best masking tape is the blue vinyl stuff you can get at Auto Parts stores. Much much easier to work with than traditional tape. Leaves clean lines and bends around curves easily. I keep a variety of widths on hand. 1/16" to 1/2"
Its more expensive so I just use it along the paint lines and then I use the regular blue lo-tack masking tape to fill in the voids.
 
Originally posted by cls
even when I do get a really good finish, it doesn't last. all well-loved rockets get battle scars :) get a picture of it when it looks nice and go fly it...
That's the truth. I used to get upset when my good paint jobs got dings or scratched. But now that's just part of the whole experience. Take pictures before you launch them!
 
the other trick for masking is this: use cellophane tape. stick it on your forehead or nose first, that gets a little oil on it (yuck) and prevents it from sticking too well to the 1st paint. after you get it laid out right, give a light dusting coat over the tape, that will tack it down and give it the "edge".

then spray your 2nd color on top of all that.

thanks to Peter Alway for the trick - I think it's on the Apogee book/disk too.
 
Dont worry every time I think a paint job is gonna come out great something always happens and then I start ranting around the house and the Mrs. asks " Paint didnt do what ya wanted"
 
I didn't get good results when I painted, either. Runs, blobs, and blisters all over the place. :( I kept at it, but never did attain the 'perfect' finishes that some fliers produce.

So... I went to MonoKote. Doesn't take as long to prep, many mistakes can be covered up. If you make a mistake, peel it off and try again. :D

I'm getting *close* to mirror finishes on my projects now...
 
Another technique not mentioned here is to practice and experiment on scrap peices of wood, cardboard, etc. One of these days I going to break down and buy a spare body tube and cut it into smaller peices to try different paint schemes before painting the project.

Then, if you want to be really anal about it write on the inside of the tubes all the details of the paint job for future reference. So then you know number of coats of primer, brand paint used, clear coat finish, etc.

Just a thought...

-DAllen
 
And just keep at it, knowing that you'll get better as you go. Believe me, I don't go through all the hoops some do here, and I'm finding that patience and practice will yield better results on each successive bird.

And the slogan we have at our launches is this - "Looks good from fifteen feet!"
 
I dont always get the best finishes either! But I think the key to it is in a word PATIENTS! :) I know that is not easy, I know I am am thinking I cant wait to fly this thing, so I have to force my self to SLOW DOWN!
 
Originally posted by Tucker5246
...But I think the key to it is in a word PATIENTS! :)...
That is acutally much harder to do, since you would have to be a doctor! :D :D
 
oh come on Forecheck....I've seen your paint jobs! They look perfect when you're holding the rocket in your hands....

Looks great at 5ft AND 5 inches..
 
Although applying the paint is important, another very helpful tip is to paint the rocket mounted horizontally and capable of being turned by hand. By doing it this way, you tend to ward off our paint enemy...Gravity!! All you need is (2) 3/4" x 4" x 12" Pine boards with a 1 1/8" hole drill in to it, a length of 1" X ? wooden dowell rod, and 2 work horses, and you can paint just about any diameter rocket at any length. I just slide the dowell rod through the motor tube and out the other end of which I roll some newspaper around to keep the dowel centered. Unless of course the rocket has a baffle or bulkhead, in which case two dowel rods are used, one each end. The dowel axle(s) are then inserted into the holes in the pine boards which are screwed upright to the work horses and you're ready to go. For larger diameter rockets, I cut out some styrofoam wheels with 1 1/8" holes to fit in the BT end.

Now, I'm not saying that a rocket can't be sprayed standing up. In fact, I know some guys who are quite good add it. This is just a technique that seems to work best for me. I guess I have this gravity thing going on or something :D For some reason or other, every rocket that I have painted standing up has been a trainwreck. Unless I want my rocket to look like a long skinny candle :D

For what its worth........~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>>>====>


-Chris
 
I agree on horizontal painting, it's a great technique. All the rockets I've painted recently I put onto a BBQ rotisserie motor (a spit) and it turns itself as I primed and later painted.

sizzler7sm.jpg

My SIZZLER build pictures....
The paint smooths itself, gravity becomes your assistant rather than your enemy.
 
If gravity is a problem you may be applying too much paint at one time.and turning the rocket horizontal or spinning it does not cancell out gravity..it just takes a little practice to know when you are spraying too heavy.

I just spray light coats, because in the long run the rocket will be dry much quicker compared to thick heavy coats.
 
Just remember the single most important rule:



The odds of a successful recovery are inversely proportional to the amount of effort put into finishing the rocket.
 
Thank you ALL! I shall follow all of the tips that have been incluuded in your posts to tge extent of my ability! I'll also be suure to get a picture up when I'm done. :D
 
stymye:

In these parts, we call that a "Prairie Dog" :D

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>>>====> Cool Pic

-Chris
 
Originally posted by cls
the other trick for masking is this: use cellophane tape. stick it on your forehead or nose first, that gets a little oil on it (yuck) and prevents it from sticking too well to the 1st paint. after you get it laid out right, give a light dusting coat over the tape, that will tack it down and give it the "edge".

then spray your 2nd color on top of all that.

thanks to Peter Alway for the trick - I think it's on the Apogee book/disk too.

I'd like to point out that while I've read about the skin oil trick, too, I have never actually tried it.

I do swear by Scotch "Magic" tape, though.
 

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