Finally, a thread on this forum I can relate to-
I change the oil on my Dodge Ram diesels with Cummins motors every 10k with a filter swap every 5k. One major issue with these new diesels is they now have EGR systems that soot up that oil so fast I can change it and, hit the key...it's already black.
Putting a bypass filter system on this newest truck would really be a benefit nowadays and, I have explored some options.For me to change out my oil every 3k is NOT an option. I put that on every 6 weeks. To fill that crankcase with (3) gallons of oil hits you hard.
Growing up in Wisconsin introduced me to synthetic motor oils at an early age when that was a hard to find option...About the only option was Amsoil-
I was dealer for them from the mid eighties until about 1990. I finally gave up on them due to the fact that no matter what I ran their product in I couldn't get a clean oil analysis. A lot of my customers had the same issue, so I kicked THEIR HYPE to the curb.
When it comes to choosing non-synthetic oils I've always run Valvoline. On the Synthetic side I religiously use Mobil 1. If it's a two stroke motor I like Redline (best fuel/oil suspension I've ever seen). Filters, that's easy...Wix, Hastings and, of course Mobil 1 with their oil.
For engines that have high mileage on them, I always recommend that their owners check out the oil manufacturers websites. On them you'll find the links to their particular "oil data sheets" by weights...(for the good ones).
You'll notice that on Mobil's site that their "High Mileage" synthetic oils contain higher ppm amounts of zinc and, phosphorous. I still feel that helps with the older engines (especially 70's era and, below) if their still original, non-rebuilt.
Thru Drag Racing over the years, I found that a lot of my friends used Kendall and, Shell Rotella due to concerns over cam/valve train wear issues using BIG mechanical and, roller cam combos. LOTS of zinc and, phosphorus floating around in there.
One thing at the dragstrip that always confused me was the "Leave the air cleaner off to gain 5hp crowd". Seriously? I always ran filters.
Which leads me to this- No matter what you drive...
1. If keep the oil clean from contaminates thru eliminating external or internal (coolant infused) leaks. There's your first step. An engine leaking oil is drawing in junk.
2. Clean air, I run nothing but, reusable oiled air filters in my vehicles (NO problems with my MAF sensors if done properly.) Dirty air getting in anything kills that motor.
3. Clean fuel, dirt finding a path thru carbs and, injectors does the same over time.
4. Last but, not least- How do you drive it? Do you hit the key and, slam it into gear? I always allow my motors 25-30 seconds after start up to build full oil pressure...a minute or two in the winter. An engine starts with the cam and, crankshaft literally sitting on their bearings. Yes, there might be a thousandth of an inch of oil under it but, load it hard with no/ low oil pressure and, you take the life out ANY motor.
*Tolerances NEVER wear in, they wear out from the first start.*
Make sure (especially under warranty) that the oil you chose meets the manufactures requirements spec wise and, over the life of the vehicle chose what you want.
For me, I've found that using Mobil 1 5w-40 Synthetic Turbo Diesel Oil along with the added on Pyrometer I wired in
View attachment 305174 keeping my temps below 400 degrees fahr. (before shut off) makes my daily driver very happy. Lord knows that darn truck cost more than my house cost to build...and, my 1999 Ram had 330k on it when I sold it last year.
It had a very happy motor in it!
Clean oil, clean filters, good driving habits and, 99.9% of the time they'll last a long time with a minimum of trouble...
And I'm NOT referring to driving on them. 
