Finally Building my 29mm Mercury Engineering Integrator, with R.W. upgrades.

[86mustang408w]

I bought this 10 years ago or so, finally got back into this in May. But sent everything stock which was a 6" 29mm tube and cardboard centering rings, etc..Horrible balsa fins with skins they give you to cut out. So it all went to James at RocketyWorks in the mail, he sent back what you see.

The only issue I had was 10 years ago or so I already horribly cut 1/4" slots in the lower tube section for the fins. So when I got the new fins and jig, he accidentally sent the wrong fin design and sent me new ones with longer tabs and a centering ring slot. But Sat down and measured/cut out those slots today. Its going to be a little until I really start the build but I wanted to see what it looked like. My other option was to cut the body tube off and make all new fin tab slots but lose 4" or so of body tube. But then I would have to modify a few others things and thought it was best to try and use the existing slots. It might look horrible with that gap but I'll fill them in for sure. Fin number 3 has a big gap but it will be fine. The other slots are nice a tight, so filler and fillets will make it look brand new, lol. I'll continue to add to this periodically until I so it this late fall or winter. Might even use it for my L1 certification flight. Its going to be 29mm, and probably cut the nosecone shoulder and make a bulkhead inside with an eyelet bolt. So thats the plan for now. Some pics I was messing around with a shorter version..I kind if liked it! Thr first two pics are the original fins James sent me back but have the shorter tabs, he sent the correct fins and jig, thats why there's so many different fins...

 

[86mustang408w]

More pics..

 

[bobby_hamill]

That is some nice LASER work

 

[OzHybrid]

To me, the advantage of laser, CNC 3D printing, and other advanced manufacturing techniques is to do something different. The only 2 centering rings that need to be complete are the one at the base to stop the exhaust gasses and provide rear protection and the one at the top to seal the ejection charges. Lightening holes could have been made in the others as could have been done with the fin tab. This is weight at the worst part of the rocket. The rear.

It's a missed opportunity that could have given better performance with no cost or effective strength downside. If you think along the lines of how can I make this better rather than how can I use a laser to replicate what could have been done with a jigsaw, you'll improve your design skills.
Having read this, it seems a bit harsh. Not meant to be. Just moving your design skills to be better. No sugar coating...


Nice build.

 

[Hobie1dog]

thanks for the pics

 

[86mustang408w]

To me, the advantage of laser, CNC 3D printing, and other advanced manufacturing techniques is to do something different. The only 2 centering rings that need to be complete are the one at the base to stop the exhaust gasses and provide rear protection and the one at the top to seal the ejection charges. Lightening holes could have been made in the others as could have been done with the fin tab. This is weight at the worst part of the rocket. The rear.

It's a missed opportunity that could have given better performance with no cost or effective strength downside. If you think along the lines of how can I make this better rather than how can I use a laser to replicate what could have been done with a jigsaw, you'll improve your design skills.
Having read this, it seems a bit harsh. Not meant to be. Just moving your design skills to be better. No sugar coating...


Nice build.

I understand, I've taken a 10 year break so my skills are a little rusty but getting back in shape. I make quite a few things myself and wanted to see what James came up with at RocketyWorks, he did a fantastic job. I'm also looking at 3D printers and laser cutters, I've found what I need. Its not that I can't make them, they are just not as precise as I need them. I'm not whining but having a few physical injuries ots very difficult to do certain things even at 40 years old. I appreciate the advice its not harsh....

 

[86mustang408w]

That is some nice LASER work

The credit goes to James and his team at RocketyWorks. But im very happy with this, I have a spare set of fins and might use them for my Aerotech G-Force after some cutting of the tip cord.

 

[86mustang408w]

thanks for the pics

I love doing builds, its nice to share what you do to maybe help others. Other than that I don't are about recognition. Its also a help when I can come back to see where I was at!! Lol, I'll be starting this soon. Pretty shortly flying season will pretty much be at an end do freash build/repairs time really starts.

 

[86mustang408w]

Started this for sure, going to put it up Nov 4th or 5th for my L1 cert flight. I had some spare wood and tried a 3.5" bulkhead for the nosecone. I'd like it a bit bigger I can use that one elsewhere. And it was $1.25 wood from the Dollar Tree. I'm also going to cut that NC shoulder down just a little. I liked doing it this way to give myself more shoulder, more updates will be soon.

 

[86mustang408w]

I definitely want a bigger bulkhead for the nosecone, time to find more supplies...

 

[86mustang408w]

Working on this again, marked the nosecone and will trim that shoulder down a little more. Last night I never got to it, but just now put CA on the nosecone edge of the body tube with making tape around the top edge to keep it from running outside. Seems like it might to aid the zipper stopper and overall strength of the body tube at the nosecone. But the 3.5" bulkhead I made last night isn't quite big enough, so as soon as Jeopardy is over I'm running out the the shop to make a 4" bulkhead for the eyelet. Ill use that other one somewhere else. Stopped at Coles to to pick up some stuff, but I'm going to get one piece or full circle eyelets for this high power stuff. These will be ok with a little epoxy on the end to make it a little stronger. Also found a chute for it, going to use my 42" chute from the G-Force and took this one and donated it to my Super Big Bertha.

 

[86mustang408w]

Well I took about 3/4" off the shoulder and cut a new bulkhead. Put the eyelet in and its definitely better higher, I'm even thinking about putting one lower too to give that NC a little more strength so it doesn't distort. That's probably it for tonight, 2morrow I'll probably start motor tube assembly. And drill the vent holes and out it all together and get a close CG to mark out the rail buttons.

 

[86mustang408w]

I bought these couplers years back and my I intention was to make ejection baffles from them. But I put one in the nosecone and I like it, its also going to give that bulkhead reinforcement. And it makes the nosecone shoulder a heck of a lot stronger. It also adds weight which is what I want. So I'm going to epoxy this in with the bulkhead after I get a smaller 2.5 inch or so bulkhead in the forward of the nosecone to keep it from distorting as much as possible. It's probably not necessary but why not, it won't hurt and I want this rocket heavier. I also dug out some rail buttons. I also want to nake sure I can get to and change the eyelet at least in the BT. So I'll epoxy or JB Weld the nut, so I can twist the eyelet out and replace or upgrade it. I'm not a fan of these open ended eyelets but they work and it can be used for now. But until the better ones get here this is what I'm using. I'm even tempted to go and get them welded then that's done with and they can be permanently installed. Maybe that's the best now thinking about it. Getting back into this I dont have a welder or easy access to one. Using these over the years its best to weld them as was suggested also earlier by someone, and I agree with him.

 

[86mustang408w]

Put thin CA on the inside of the upper body tube. Then put everything together and marked/measured the motor tube, coupler, and took it all apart then sanded it all down inside/out. I'm also using the thin CA to hold the forward and 2nd centering ring in place, until I get glue on it. I marked a spot for the rails buttons, and I'm going now to see how easy these spirals cover up. They are not deep and it won't take much. I'm not so concerned about beauty, but might start the motor tube fillets tonight.

 

[86mustang408w]

Wanted to make sure that the "middle" ring with the slots was where it needed to be. So I put it all together, then carefully pulled a flew things apart after dropping some thin CA to hold it. Pulled the motor tube out, and then after this CA dries I'll start fillets on the motor tube/centering rings. Then get to work on the rail buttons. Yeah those fins slots(in the BT) are rough, they were cut 10 years ago horribly by me then realizing those stock balsa fins(1/4") won't work...lol. But after talking with James at RocketyWorks in early June he came up with the longer fin tabs(He designed all the new parts for this, I'm very happy and lucky to have had them done. I mailed the stock stuff to him in a box!!), so the longer 1/8" slots are new by me and good. I'm going to fill that in but the outer fin/BT fillets will take care of that. And its a little better it will have more grip, maybe. But thats it for right now. I'm thinking too the best ways to assemble it, and marking that down. It's paid off flying the past few months and fixing/building many. L1 cert here we come..

Oh any good paint ideas? The stickers are below...

 

[86mustang408w]

Got the motor tube and centering ring fillets started. I used thin CA again because I moved the tube a little from the original marks. Made sure they all fit before putting on the glue. Those fillets are well wide enough, this rocket has 4 centering rings and its going to be more than enough. So when that dries I'll flip it and do the other side. The last ring won't go on until the inner fillets are done, then the aft ring and I'll JB the motor retainer. I hadn't planned to work on this until Saturday but I figured why not. I was getting a little anxious not working on it. I have 23 days yet but I not procrastinating. So later I'll do the body tube spirals, and probably start the vent holes and rail buttons. I'm still looking at paint options. Like this one but I won't copy it exactly. I like the idea of red really instead of blue.

 

[cwbullet]

I miss the Mercury Engineering kits. I built one as my first kit back in 2006.

 

[86mustang408w]

I miss the Mercury Engineering kits. I built one as my first kit back in 2006.

Wow, that's awesome. You have any pictures of it? I'm so happy to get this together after many years.

 

[86mustang408w]

Well flipped the motor tube and did the fillets on the other side, put wood filler on the spirals, and going to make a forward bulkhead for the NC.

 

[86mustang408w]

Decided to put a 3" bulkhead in the forward of the nosecone. And then the 4" with the eyelet will be right behind it. I sanded down some of the body tube spirals and its good. I'll let that dry over night and then sand it all down 2morrow and see what I missed. Oh I robbed about an inch off of the Aerotech G-Force coupler, I'm putting it above the chute stop and eyelet for extra support. Ill be happy when this is together for good. These tubes and couplers had had enough dry fits. But that thin coupler will go on top of the chute stop, just for reinforcement. I didn't take it all the way out if the tube, no point it was tough to get in it, lol. Goodnight..

 

[86mustang408w]

I went and got poster board, going to cover these fins. For width more than strength to help cover up those fin slots in the BT. Also picked up a swivel and two quick links, for a chute swivel for this. I got a slider ring too, probably not for this one but I'm messing around with "softer" deployment ideas.

 

[86mustang408w]

Did the top two fillets again on the motor tube. Not sure whats next, lol. I might sit and right down a list quick of what I want to do yet. But I've also been leaving myself notes with a sharpie....

 

[86mustang408w]

Those spirals turned out nice, I sanded down a little bit. But today I sanded down the top tube and then sprayed it. Its drying now ill add pictures 2morrow. I'll probably work to get the fins covered with the poster board 2morrow.

 

[86mustang408w]

That upper body tube dried overnight, so that will get the same treatment. Rather than Dremel down the fillets on the centering ring I used a wood block and sanded out some of the fin tab slot. I had to take some off that tab anyways so I tired it. This way the fillets are still there all around and the slot isn't messed up. Also just ordered these swivels for the chutes for high power.

 

[86mustang408w]

Glued the baffle together with little dots around the two pieces. Then for an hour plus sanded the bottom and top tube tubes. Did the bottom with 220, 320, then 600. And then the top tube with 220 over the spirals, watered down more white Gorilla Wood Filler. I brushed that in, and then set it to dry. I wiped them both down with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol lightly.

 

[86mustang408w]

Got to use the laptop a few mins and just put in a few things to get this started with OpenRocket, lol. I don't have the exact measurements(the fins)in yet, I'm kind of waiting too until I get a final weight. Its just to check/confirm and get an estimated altitude and ejection delay. I'm going to say 6 to 8 seconds depending on what lower impulse H motor I choose. I'm going to check out a few different motors and ones that the vendor will have too.

 

[86mustang408w]

Here it is with better measurements, I wasnt too(I just picked stuff) far off. I had the body tube at 30, its 34". The NC was 12", its 16" now. I'll get exact weights too and put them in. This is just the start, I'll get more info in as I build.

 

[86mustang408w]

Got these today from Amazon. Going to use them for chute swivels. They are ball bearing swivels rated at 390#. The silver one or 5/8" back to back is rated at 105#. I don't foresee any issues using these for chute swivels. The ring ends are already welded shut, the shroud lines will break before this does in that event what does it matter. There would far worse damage all over. Even the quicklinks I wanted to use are rated at 300. So why not use them?

 

[86mustang408w]

I tossed it together to check the CG for rail button placement. I know about where its at but it will be lower with a H motor in the tube. So just kept them in the lower tube, I wanted to put it in the coupler. But with the way I'm going to assemble it, it's not going to be easy or work out. And it would be hard to put in between the coupler and baffle, again assembly. It will be fine so I just drilled them and the backing plates. Then started on the fin skins I cut last night. Got 1A and 3A skinned, once they dry I'll trim/sand that poster board to fit as I go. Its much easier that way, on Fin 2 is just laying here somewhere. Its got a very slight warp that water and weight are taking quick care of. Ill let that dry out then do it in a day or so. I'm thinking once the skins are on with glue on #2, while it dries ill keep weight on it and it might straighten out. Its not a big deal it won't make a difference and its not that horrible. But enough to make me want to try and make it straight.

 

[86mustang408w]

Those skins are dry, number 2 fin was slightly warped. So I ran it under hot sink water for about a minute or so last night. Then put it on this rack and about 20 mins later it was going the other way. So I put the right amount of weight on it overnight. Its straight now, I'm going to let it dry a little then when I do the skins it will get clamped together between 2 pcs of wood. Already have the stuff for that. I'm letting fins 1&3 sit in the open a little before I sand/trim those skins and do the other side.